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Discussion Starter #1
I know there is a few people who have done it. I really don't want to deal with this resistor crap anymore lol.

What is the best way to go about it? Add a switch to control the factory relay? Wire it all up my self?
 

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Replacing the resistor is pretty easy, especially compared to wiring in a new switch.

Why don't you want to "deal with the resistor"?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Pulling the fans to rewire the melted harness has gotten really annoying. Ive only had the resistor it self go out once. Other 2 times has been the wiring and now its all burnt up again. I don't know who came up with the bright idea of putting a harness an inch away from an exhaust manifold...
 

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You won't be able to get low speed without some way to kick power down there. One could simply power up one or two fans both at high speed and variably but now you're at two mods not one.

The resistor is very reliable, it not being so means you are doing something wrong.

Run bigger wire if you think the current is melting them and use the exhaust manifold heatshield if one is not present, it lowers the temps there greatly. If header then make one up. With stock parts in place the harness will last for years, at least they do here in Texas. The wiring needs a covering over it too.

One could easily move all the interconnections there somewhere else to only have the power leads only coming down there and grounds going out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Its definitely heat from the manifold. Heat shield is in place. After looking at pictures of engine bays it looks like there is supposed to be a lot more room then I have. My radiator and fans are out of an automatic but I didn't see any differences side by side, other than an extra tab on the front for the transmission cool. Did I miss something between the two or is it something else?
 

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They are the same. You need the black plastic covering over the wiring too, it goes first and I simply change it maybe once every ten years or so. Haven't done one twice yet and haven't changed any wiring for melting other than the first two inches off resistor. Fan assembly has to have all four tabs in place to be as far forward as it can be. Could probably get another half inch by loosening motor/trans mounts and moving engine back a bit. The wiring harness gets tied tightly to shroud too, if redone and that not looked at closely the harness could be too far out to stand away from the shroud and then too close.
 
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