[Fucus-minded]

O.K guys so after I kept getting crapped out plugs after a few miles (50-1500) and Tom saw in one of my datalogs that my temp rose to 250+ and that my fans came off and on I decided to look to see what the problem was. I looked in between the 2 fans, pulled out the resistor, separated it from the pig tail and viola, completely melted. so, that had to be it, right? well, I bought the resistor and pig tail adapter from Ford and it still isn't turning the F#@K on! If I turn on the air conditioner the fans turn on but my car was plenty hot, I have 180 degree thermostat and the f#@kers weren't turning on...any ideas? BTW if you are going to tell me it is a fuse or something like that please tell me where it is, dont assume I know anything about this at all.

 

[1turbofocus]

You have fuses and relays you need to check them both , the locations are in your owners hand book to what relays and fuses are for the Fans

Tom

 

[Fucus-minded]

"BTW if you are going to tell me it is a fuse or something like that please tell me where it is, dont assume I know anything about this at all."

didnt see that part aye? I have the damn haynes manual and it has a diagram of the wiring and such but you have to be a damn electrician to read that shite...

Can anyone point me in the right direction? I hope it is not the cylinder heat sensor that has gone bad...that POS is a PITA to change out.

 

[fhh02a]

i would check the relays that are in the fuse box under the hood. those are the only things I can think of

BTW: if you look at that box..you could not miss them..they are huge

 

[Fucus-minded]

dude, there is more than just one of those big box looking things inside my fuse box...care to narrow it down for me a tad?

 

[1turbofocus]

"BTW if you are going to tell me it is a fuse or something like that please tell me where it is, dont assume I know anything about this at all."

didnt see that part aye? I have the damn haynes manual and it has a diagram of the wiring and such but you have to be a damn electrician to read that shite...

Can anyone point me in the right direction? I hope it is not the cylinder heat sensor that has gone bad...that POS is a PITA to change out.

Yep I saw that part but also dont have a owners book in front of me , call a junk yard and see if they have a Focus and see if they have a book , I bought 4 of then for 5.00 one time you need that book for many things its help full

Or go here and down load for free http://www.focusplanet.com/downloads/focusmanuals/2001/2001_focus_owner_guidemanual.pdf

Tom

 

[fhh02a]

dude, there is more than just one of those big box looking things inside my fuse box...care to narrow it down for me a tad?

ok..sorry I was real tired lastnight.

its on the drivers side right on the firewall. its right behind the air box..]

you cant miss it. your owners manual will tell you what numbers they are. If you dont have one... let me know and I can look up the numbers for you

 

[Fucus-minded]

Tom, thank you much, helped alot. this is the link to all the manuals for the Focus: http://www.focusplanet.com/#Focus Owners Manual

thanks to all of you guys.

 

[Fucus-minded]

ok so looking in there I found that while fuse #2 (position 2, 30 amps) doesnt look completly crapped out it does look a lil shotty so ima replace that...now Diode 2 (Cooling fan diode) is not there...it isnt a fuse, what the hell is it and where do I get it? (if I actually need that).

 

[1turbofocus]

Junk yard , most cases you can buy all the fuses in the box for 3-5.00

Tom

 

[Fucus-minded]

Tom, good idea...your on a roll kid.

 

[Fucus-minded]

So, while the R9 (Cooling fan relay (2.0L engine only) and R10 (Cooling fan 2 relay (2.0L engine only) relays did not appear to be damaged in any way I decided to try to replace them regardless...the Ford dealerships near me didnt have them in stock so I started calling parts stores. NAPA had some after market crap which I got and I am sure they are not meant to be exact replacements for these relays because they dont even look like the OEM relay. It works though so at least I know what the issue is. The two relays have these part numbers: F80B-14B192-AA and FOAB-14B192-AA are these the part numbers I give Ford so they could order them? Thanks.

 

[fhh02a]

if you got that number off of the orginal part... it should be the numbers you give ford..

I looked over on Rockauto for Radiator fan relays and it came up with some for you..

they are 4-8bucks...
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=38944

^^^^
the OEM part number is listed

hope that helps

 

[Fucus-minded]

Yea, that is for the black one with the five connectors, every place seems to have that one. The one I am having a really hard time finding is this one:F80B-14B192-AA with four connectors the part #, I found out was actually this:F8OZ-14N089-AA... why cant the part # be the actual# on the freaking piece? gonna call Ford tomorrow and see what's up. Thanks.

 

[fhh02a]

Yea, that is for the black one with the five connectors, every place seems to have that one. The one I am having a really hard time finding is this one:F80B-14B192-AA with four connectors the part #, I found out was actually this:F8OZ-14N089-AA... why cant the part # be the actual# on the freaking piece? gonna call Ford tomorrow and see what's up. Thanks.

I dont know if its the one you need but Rockauto has one... it has 4 connectors but you have to "order" it.. takes two days

 

[fhh02a]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=818032

 

[6SPD_soul]

Coolant temps aren't tied in any definite way with combustion chamber temperatures. The point is that you keep melting spark plugs so the combustion temperatures are unbelievable. You haven't mentioned anything about the coolant temp gauge running hot. You might look into emissions stuff, if the EGR system weren't working the engine would run far leaner due to the increased real air (versus the inert exhaust gases) and the combustion process would get way hotter, possibly to the point of lean misfire and melting spark plug electrodes.

I seriously doubt if it's any problem with cooling fans or relays, frankly it sounds kind of retarded to think that there's a problem with the cooling system if your coolant gauge isn't showing an overheat condition, and it wouldn't if it were an isolated overheating condition inside the combustion chamber.

Do you have a custom tune? If so the O2 sensors would be unable to dictate the AFR as they normally would, and the tune would probably also disable the check engine light which would normally trigger under this condition. I'm thinking that your engine is running dangerously lean with some seriously hot combustion chamber temps.

 

[6SPD_soul]

You could put a jumper wire between terminals 87 and 30 of the cooling fan relay junction box connections and run it all the time if you want to eliminate the question of cooling fan problems. They are probably diagonally opposed, the bottom of the relay should tell you which terminals are which. It might be hot at all times (meaning it could run with the engine off and key out) but I doubt it, probably only hot in ignition run, and the fuse that feeds that circuit would be before the relay so a simple jumper wire would work.

 

[1turbofocus]

Coolant temps aren't tied in any definite way with combustion chamber temperatures. The point is that you keep melting spark plugs so the combustion temperatures are unbelievable. You haven't mentioned anything about the coolant temp gauge running hot. You might look into emissions stuff, if the EGR system weren't working the engine would run far leaner due to the increased real air (versus the inert exhaust gases) and the combustion process would get way hotter, possibly to the point of lean misfire and melting spark plug electrodes.

I seriously doubt if it's any problem with cooling fans or relays, frankly it sounds kind of retarded to think that there's a problem with the cooling system if your coolant gauge isn't showing an overheat condition, and it wouldn't if it were an isolated overheating condition inside the combustion chamber.

Do you have a custom tune? If so the O2 sensors would be unable to dictate the AFR as they normally would, and the tune would probably also disable the check engine light which would normally trigger under this condition. I'm thinking that your engine is running dangerously lean with some seriously hot combustion chamber temps.

Are you serious ?????? "Coolant temps aren't tied in any definite way with combustion chamber temperatures." What is the water in the engine for then ? Other then to keep the combustion temps in check ?

This is just WRONG , his engine coolent temps pegged the 250+ deg on the scan tool and what the ECU can read this means the combustion chamber temps will go through the roof even if the fuel and timing are in check , which they were not because the the timing is tied with the engine temps so when the engine temps go WAY up the timing comes WAY down and to low of timing can also cause higher combustion chamber temps

He hs a custom tune and I would NEVER turn off the CEL and even if the CEL is tuned off you can still read any codes that are there

Tom

Tom

 

[Fucus-minded]

lol, Actually I do have a custom tune and my cel came on regardless for high cylinder head temp so there goes your theory. Please explain how the cooling system does not affect engine temp again. Anyways, I got the fans working again and will see if this stuff fixed my datalogging issues (bad ground somewhere).

Thanks much for all your help folks. [ffrocks]