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Discussion Starter #1
About a month ago i was driving and all of a sudden my car started heating up, it turns out one of my hose bursted. I got a new hose and everything was fine. Then just this morning I saw it leaking coolant, I checked it and it seemed to be leaking at the end of the plastic piece that 3 hose connect to.
My question is should i replace all the parts connected to my radiator? It just hit 100k and i dont want to find myself on the side of the road again....
 

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Is that the only section that's leaking? I would say, just fix the problem with the least expensive parts first to cure the problem for now.

You can get a nice aluminum/billet piece from jayracing on here to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
ok, thanks... just thought i'de ask
 

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That plastic part has been known to crack/fail. It is not that expensive for an OE replacement.
any idea how uch it cost, my just broke


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well i had this replaced a couple weeks ago. and for those looking for a part number here it is

YS4Z-8290-BA TUBE ASY
LIST; $23.17

my friend gave me his discount so it came out to be $16.55

hope this helps you guys.
 

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part YS4Z-8290-BA

I have had mine crack twice in the last two months, now I am on the third one and it cracked again. Is there something else going on here.
 

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Posted via FF Mobile Could be Pothman, either you have some nasty acid for coolant (grin), or there`s probably some stress on it that shouldn`t be there. Where it`s cracking could be a clue, either near mounts or near hoses would be different causes. Overtightening clamps to seal old hoses that needed replacement would be one guess... By some estimates ALL rubber parts are suspect after 5 years, who replaces them then? After 10 you can be sure they need replacement, usually done only after failure except on "collector" vehicles.....
 

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Thanks for the quick reply. part is leaking from the end where there is a cap the larger side, passenger end of the plastic tube. I recently (6mo) placed all of the rubber hoses and clamps.
This could be another issue entirely but may be somewhat related, occasionally in traffic when I engage the clutch the engine revs by itself, not sure if this could be putting more pressure on the system and causing it to react under the stress.
 

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Posted via FF Mobile Have heard of that end cap blowing right off - major coolant dump, so fix it quick again.... I`d ask the dealer parts people for help on this, I assume you`re getting the parts from them? Could be a bad batch and you`ll get free replacement - save any receipts? Or old parts? Did you mean rev after disengage? (not uncommon to get clutch in just B4 foot is off accel, without a tach you don`t even notice) This shouldn`t hurt anything....
 

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yes I meant rev after disengage. It actually will rev without the foot on the gas, I can have a foot on the clutch and one on the brake and it revs quite high before idling back down
 

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We're getting off the original subject here, but sticky IAC (idle air control) valve or a vacuum leak are possibilities - for a longer list and help with this search "hanging idle" for multiple threads on this prob., if no help then start a new thread for answers...
 

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Good for you, never hurts to ask - and without feedback like yours, selling a lot of those would just be written off as a common age-related failure, not an issue with the current replacement part!
 

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P.S. - being out of warranty as an older vehicle, there's no feedback through the normal warranty system - so a customer complaint is the only way the parts people would know about it....

And I'm sure they want to know, no manufacturer wants to sell replacement pieces that don't work right for their cars... They DO have a rep. to maintain...
 
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