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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2000 focus, automatic, zetec.

It was a running car, had it parked as it needed rear brakes. Went to start it the other day and everything tried as normal. Noticed gas gauge was reading low, got gas. Gas went from near E to 1/4 tank.

It's very cold here so the motor was turning slowly I figured a few revolutions would start to warm things and get it to start.

I didn't hold the starter constantly just a 3 second crank, pause for a few moments then repeat.

Now the dash does not turn on any gauges when key is turned to on. Instead when key is turned to on I get a constant chime.


I've cleaned up both battery terminals, 3 frame grounds, and alternator ground.

The battery reads 13 volts.

All fuses were checked under the hood, a 30amp fuse had to be replaced I believe it was for the heater. Did not change anything.

My friend claims he checked all of the fuses in the interior of the car.

I've wiggled the key in the ignition. Removed shroud from around it and wiggled around there to.


Anybody got any suggestions? Got me very confused[mad]
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Thinking about it my title may be a little misleading. It's not necessarily door chime more like the light chime. Same chime as the door but constant.

Search youtube for monkeygein no start, I am experiencing the same issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Today I poked around some more on the wiring, didn't find anything yet.

Here's a list of things that function with the key on:

power locks

cluster lights when the headlight switch is in the on position

hazard lights

interior lights

radio

trunk release switch and trunk lights

tail lights

license plate lights

running lights in the grill


List of things that don't function with key on:

headlights

power windows

blower motor

blinkers

running lights excluding the ones in the grill

brake lights

Also I can turn my radio on at anytime key on or key off, key outside of the car I can still turn on/off the radio. That's not normal is it?
 

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Radio will work key off, goes to a timed on feature when you press the button to turn it on.

Recheck under the hood, including pulling fuses & checking them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Checked all fuses again, no luck.

Checked wiring from

-underhood fuse box

-interior fuse box

-what i believe to be the pcm and anti theft box

No luck on finding any damaged wires yet. So tomorrow I will probably be picking up and ignition switch.

I also forgot to mention that I cannot shift out of park with the key on, I have to manual over ride it at the middle counsel. Maybe neutral safety switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My windshield wipers don't work either.

Anybody know if all the things that are currently not working are on the same power feed in??
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If the ignition cylinder turns, that would mean that it is in fact functional correct?
My thought of replacing the ignition switch isn't to far fetched is it?

I only have the one key and the ford dealer says he needs my key to program a new one. Could it just be the key?

If I toasted my PCM what kind of symptoms would that cause?

Tomorrow I will also test to see if I can connect to the obd2 port. I'm not expecting to pull codes since it hasn't ran since the last battery disconnect. Just looking to see a connection.


Anybody have any type of suggestions? I'm not getting a reaction from a hand ful.l of things in my car
 

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How old is the battery and what is it rated for, CA (cranking amps) and CCA (cold cranking amps)?

Having the battery read 13volts really doesn't mean much. You need to be able to read the Cranking AMPS as it is trying to start the car. Specially where you say it is cold, the battery should be rated for 500+ CCA and be pushing that. you should have your battery load tested to ensure that it is cranking out enough AMPS for the ambient temperature.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's only 575 cca. I've had the car in a 60+ degree garage for the last 3 days. I've tried a jump start. If the battery was bad and inbetween a jump start could that cause a bad enough connection?
 

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575 cca should be more than enough, as long as it is pushing that. To answer your question about the jump start, a low amp battery should not cause a bad connection while jumping a vehicle.

Your best bet will be to get a volt/multimeter out and start testing the input and output voltages of your ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Found a thick grey wire running near the egr pipe that had melted. According to the wiring schematics in the chiltons manual under the ignition and starting diagram the grey wire runs to the pcm. My new theory is that I shorted out the pcm from that wire rubbing onto bare metal. The heat guard around that egr pipe has worn down a bit.

I have a spare computer from one that I had scrapped. When I get a chance to dig it out I'm going to check the label and see if they match. Then hopefully test my new theory.

Anybody agree with my new idea?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Well I did have a matching computer laying around but no luck on it changing anything when I swapped them.
 

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Swapping a PCM means you need the keys that were programmed into it BTW.

Key codes that are accepted are stored in the PCM, no keys avail. would require programming a fresh pair at minimum by Dealer or a GOOD locksmith (seen some mess that up).

Didn't read back through the whole thread, just noticed you thought the PCM had been accidentally damaged.
 

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I have this same problem 2002 Ford Focus stalled out don’t start back no sound at all except when I open the door the car constantly chimes
 
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