Lol. I have never used a torque wrench on a valve cover gasket. Normal procedure on any focus valve cover is the center first if it has middle bolts in between the spark plugs. Then you criss cross from the center to the ends. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket and work them all in finger tight first. And work my way to snug in the middle. Then the outside bolts. Once I feel the bolts starting to give me some evidence the gasket is snug, I go for a full tightening in the same order. Remeber the torque specs are for a new engine. Clean all of the oil out of the bolt holes and bolts with brake clean and make sure you do the same to the cover and the head surface. Most repeat valve cover oil leaks are from a failure to completely remove the old gasket sealer. The grooves in the valve cover I clean with a wire brush on my dremel.
Confusion on correct torque specs
Hi, 2012 Focus se 2.0
Im redoing the valve cover I installed 2 months ago because it’s blowing oil. I think it is a faulty gasket or cover itself. Aftermarite.
Anyway before I got started I couldn’t remember how I torqued it. I know I fallowed a diagram for pattern which I still have. And I remember torquing to a specific spec the first time then a final torque.
Ive been looking for an hour now on line and keep getting different specs. And no one has mentioned the torque for round one. I know y’all know so please will someone clear this up for me?
I read one answer saying 60 inch lb. Another was 89 inch lb. And another 106 inch lb on a site called ford specs but the illustration they showed was a different model.
Those are the three that keep popping up.
Can someone please help? I still have to get started removing the old one which I’m going to do now.
Thanks for bailing me out again.
Im redoing the valve cover I installed 2 months ago because it’s blowing oil. I think it is a faulty gasket or cover itself. Aftermarite.
Anyway before I got started I couldn’t remember how I torqued it. I know I fallowed a diagram for pattern which I still have. And I remember torquing to a specific spec the first time then a final torque.
Ive been looking for an hour now on line and keep getting different specs. And no one has mentioned the torque for round one. I know y’all know so please will someone clear this up for me?
I read one answer saying 60 inch lb. Another was 89 inch lb. And another 106 inch lb on a site called ford specs but the illustration they showed was a different model.
Those are the three that keep popping up.
Can someone please help? I still have to get started removing the old one which I’m going to do now.
Thanks for bailing me out again.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Oil in the threads or on the bolts will throw off the torque reading. Lubricated threads are torqued 10 percent less than dry threads typically.
I learned quick that old aluminum will not take a factory torque spec. Got tired of drilling out broken bolts. Haven't broken a bolt or stripped a thread in 40 years.
I found where i ask y’all the first go around. 10nm was it.
Sorry for the panic post. I want to make sure everything is right so I can stop working on my wife’s car. Get my truck back and finish my boat rebuild which all I need is one more day after a years work. I’m ready
The cover is clean except for fresh oil. I was wondering what to clean the grooves out with though I don’t want this gasket to slip out while I’m installing.
Thanks for the heads up on the bolts. I have a little brake cleaner left in a can not sure how much and no way to get any right now. I got plenty of carb cleaner but I didn’t know if that was safe to use on any of this?
Acetone , 95% isopropyl alcohol. I’m so tired of working on this car. It’s been a good one and we’ve enjoyed it but it’s time for her to get a new Focus. Turbos like my truck. 😂
Sorry for the panic post. I want to make sure everything is right so I can stop working on my wife’s car. Get my truck back and finish my boat rebuild which all I need is one more day after a years work. I’m ready
I just came inside. The cover came off easy since it was new and just installed. And I’m the one to blame. I must have let the gasket slip in the back when I installed it. It was all most cut into. Saw it right away.Lol. I have never used a torque wrench on a valve cover gasket. Normal procedure on any focus valve cover is the center first if it has middle bolts in between the spark plugs. Then you criss cross from the center to the ends. I use a 1/4 inch drive socket and work them all in finger tight first. And work my way to snug in the middle. Then the outside bolts. Once I feel the bolts starting to give me some evidence the gasket is snug, I go for a full tightening in the same order. Remeber the torque specs are for a new engine. Clean all of the oil out of the bolt holes and bolts with brake clean and make sure you do the same to the cover and the head surface. Most repeat valve cover oil leaks are from a failure to completely remove the old gasket sealer. The grooves in the valve cover I clean with a wire brush on my dremel.
The cover is clean except for fresh oil. I was wondering what to clean the grooves out with though I don’t want this gasket to slip out while I’m installing.
Thanks for the heads up on the bolts. I have a little brake cleaner left in a can not sure how much and no way to get any right now. I got plenty of carb cleaner but I didn’t know if that was safe to use on any of this?
Acetone , 95% isopropyl alcohol. I’m so tired of working on this car. It’s been a good one and we’ve enjoyed it but it’s time for her to get a new Focus. Turbos like my truck. 😂
You can use alcohol. I put a little sealer in the valve cover grooves. Let it skin over for 10 minutes. Lay the gasket in and press it down all around. Let it sit an hour. That will keep the gasket in the cover.I found where i ask y’all the first go around. 10nm was it.
Sorry for the panic post. I want to make sure everything is right so I can stop working on my wife’s car. Get my truck back and finish my boat rebuild which all I need is one more day after a years work. I’m ready
I just came inside. The cover came off easy since it was new and just installed. And I’m the one to blame. I must have let the gasket slip in the back when I installed it. It was all most cut into. Saw it right away.
The cover is clean except for fresh oil. I was wondering what to clean the grooves out with though I don’t want this gasket to slip out while I’m installing.
Thanks for the heads up on the bolts. I have a little brake cleaner left in a can not sure how much and no way to get any right now. I got plenty of carb cleaner but I didn’t know if that was safe to use on any of this?
Acetone , 95% isopropyl alcohol. I’m so tired of working on this car. It’s been a good one and we’ve enjoyed it but it’s time for her to get a new Focus. Turbos like my truck. 😂
Use as little as possible. Especially on the head. A 1/32 bead is all you need. Less is best.
Yea I just removed the cover and the bolts i torqued to spec last time acted like they didn’t want to break loose. I was using my little 1/4” ratchet. I could tell they were in there to tight. I learned about aluminum when I brought home an old outboard and right off the bat checking the thermostat first bolt I went to remove twisted off like it soft bubble gum. Right in the aluminum head I literally got sick in my stomach. I found a retired machinist in our little town and he fixed it for me. That’s when Fluid Film became my friend. I sprayed the whole head and let it soak.I learned quick that old aluminum will not take a factory torque spec. Got tired of drilling out broken bolts. Haven't broken a bolt or stripped a thread in 40 years.
I hate doing this by feel instead of using the little torque wrench but those bolts where to tight. I fact one in the back felt funny coming out after it broke loose so next I’ll see if I can inspect the threads while cleaning.
10nm is 88 in.lbs. and I've never tightened a bolt that tight in my life if talking 6 mm. shank bolts. I stop around 25ish in.lbs.
People don't grasp that torque has nothing to do with the sealing now like it used to. You run the bolts down till the 'hit' solid and then cinch them up a bit tighter simply to lock them in place. I too haven't torqued a cover in many years now. A 6 mm. shank (if that) bolt at 88 inch pounds is going to be a grade or higher property class bolt or you break it. I don't think the valve cover bolts would even pass grade 5, they simply break too much.
Thank y’all I’m fixing to go back out there and tackle it. I guess I’ll just use my small 1/4” ratchet and instinct to tighten them. I used a small torque wrench last time to spec and when I was removing the bolts with the 1/4” ratchet I had to use some pressure to get them to break loose. I was definitely concerned. One di feel right coming out so I’ll inspect those threads.You can use alcohol. I put a little sealer in the valve cover grooves. Let it skin over for 10 minutes. Lay the gasket in and press it down all around. Let it sit an hour. That will keep the gasket in the cover.
Well it’s done. I snugged the bolts just a little and now waiting for the Permatex spots to cure for a couple hours then I’ll tighten them. Gently!
Thanks everyone for chiming in I really appreciate it. Hopefully this will be it for a while. I just replaced the brakes and rotors , bled the fluid until it was flushed with all new , new belts and tensioner,and flushed the coolant so everything is fresh. I can’t think of anything that could happen. Except for stuff above my pay grade.
Thank y’all again.
Thanks everyone for chiming in I really appreciate it. Hopefully this will be it for a while. I just replaced the brakes and rotors , bled the fluid until it was flushed with all new , new belts and tensioner,and flushed the coolant so everything is fresh. I can’t think of anything that could happen. Except for stuff above my pay grade.
Thank y’all again.
You're welcome. Good job.Well it’s done. I snugged the bolts just a little and now waiting for the Permatex spots to cure for a couple hours then I’ll tighten them. Gently!
Thanks everyone for chiming in I really appreciate it. Hopefully this will be it for a while. I just replaced the brakes and rotors , bled the fluid until it was flushed with all new , new belts and tensioner,and flushed the coolant so everything is fresh. I can’t think of anything that could happen. Except for stuff above my pay grade.
Thank y’all again.
I apologize but one more time HELP!!!!You're welcome. Good job.
I went out and checked under the hood to make sure I didn’t miss anything since I finished after dark yesterday. Valve cover bolts are still tight like I left them. Then I noticed a gap between the cover and the head in the front of the oil fill cap between bolts 6&10. I took a flashlight and at the right angle can see the gasket touching the head like it’s sealed. Between those to bolts is the farthest apart than any other bolts.
Is this normal or do I have a warped valve cover. Also I don’t trust my old eyes as much as I used to but depending on the angle I look it looks like the cover may have bowed out slightly between a couple of other bolts but like I said I could be wrong it’s not that noticeable.
If the gap is normal I’ll go ahead and warm it up for the oil change. Otherwise I won’t start it if I’m going to have to replace the entire cover do I don’t have as big a mess to clean. Unless y’all tell me the run it and see if it leaks.
I’m attaching a picture. I’m sorry for being a pain and really appreciate y’all’s help.
Run it. Looks good.I apologize but one more time HELP!!!!
I went out and checked under the hood to make sure I didn’t miss anything since I finished after dark yesterday. Valve cover bolts are still tight like I left them. Then I noticed a gap between the cover and the head in the front of the oil fill cap between bolts 6&10. I took a flashlight and at the right angle can see the gasket touching the head like it’s sealed. Between those to bolts is the farthest apart than any other bolts.
Is this normal or do I have a warped valve cover. Also I don’t trust my old eyes as much as I used to but depending on the angle I look it looks like the cover may have bowed out slightly between a couple of other bolts but like I said I could be wrong it’s not that noticeable.
If the gap is normal I’ll go ahead and warm it up for the oil change. Otherwise I won’t start it if I’m going to have to replace the entire cover do I don’t have as big a mess to clean. Unless y’all tell me the run it and see if it leaks.
I’m attaching a picture. I’m sorry for being a pain and really appreciate y’all’s help. View attachment 317616 The gap runs most of the way between the two bolts.
If you want. Order a valve cover and do it next oil change. They do age out being plastic. Avoid anything sold on Amazon or 1A auto
Thank you sir! I used Permatex black ultra and it’s been about 14 hours. I should be ok just warming it up enough to change the oil I think. So I can move on to the next project.Then let it sit until tomorrow and I’ll be taking my truck back from my wife.Run it. Looks good.
14 hrs is plenty. I do the same.Thank you sir! I used Permatex black ultra and it’s been about 14 hours. I should be ok just warming it up enough to change the oil I think. So I can move on to the next project.Then let it sit until tomorrow and I’ll be taking my truck back from my wife.
Thank you so much for the reply. Actually the valve cover is only a couple months old. It came from Rockauto. I couldn’t find the OEM parts anywhere in the country. Ford said they’re back ordered and they don’t even have a date.If you want. Order a valve cover and do it next oil change. They do age out being plastic. Avoid anything sold on Amazon or 1A auto
Thank you again. You guys are life savers.14 hrs is plenty. I do the same.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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