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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2013 Focus se and it had a parasitic draw but recently the amp draw went down from .400 to .010 so I thought it was fixed, again after driving it went up to .400 again and now I'm thinking the computer sometimes won't turn off. Is this an easy fix or no? Thanks
 

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It can take up to 45 mins for the computer to power down.

After that it will briefly wake an do a few little checks. When it does those checks it will spike between 400ma to as much as an amp only for a second or so then back to sleep.

If you break the connection to the battery at any time the sleep cycle slarts over.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok I'll check this tomorrow but why does it randomly kill my battery then? It's a relatively new battery and something keeps draining it overnight or every other night.
 

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What does 'relatively' mean, can be killing you there. Battery could be simply bad if never had a loadtest on it.
 

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And I have to ask the even 'dumber' sounding question, what are the symptoms of a "drained" battery on your car.

Failure to crank the engine is NOT necessarily a drained battery on that model.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so to clarify the battery is stamped with 6-16 so June of 2016. So still new enough that it shouldn't be draining. And when I come out in the morning it won't even crank or anything and for example the one morning it was 7.6 volts. Sometimes the lights flicker when I open the door because it tries to turn on the marker lights but it doesn't have enough power to maintain them. Once I jump start it, it starts and runs perfectly fine, doesn't lug or "hold back" when I'm stopped and go to pull out again.
 

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^^^ Good confirmation of actual battery being low.

Load test is ALWAYS recommended, but it's looking like you do have an overnight drain issue to trace.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Checking the battery every few hours (3-4) is showing me a decrease in battery voltage of about .2 volts each time I check. Now I would normally assume bad battery but the fact that it is a new battery and we saw that .400 amp draw that doesn't go away with pulling fuses leads to me believe that my actual computer won't turn off and keeps drawing power until it turns itself off because of low battery voltage.
 

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Charge it up and leave it DISCONNECTED from any cables and do that volt chase over time again, if it still drops with no connection to anything then the battery is bad. If not then your belief closer to true.

A normal battery will drop until it hits the battery normal level (12.4-12.7ish) then stop, not stopping the drop is a short inside battery.
 

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I agree with amc , I have seen good charged Batt go as low as 11.8 volts and be fine

If the Batt with no cables connected still goes low then its a bad Batt just because its new doesnt mean its good ,

If it doesnt drain then I would find the ECU fuse and pull it and test the Batt connected over time , keep removing fuses one at a time till you find the one that is causing the issue and go from there

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea I actually did this over a span of a few days and it dropped slightly but not as much as it normally did while hooked up, I'm guessing the battery quality has decreased now due to constant drain and recharging every other day. I've pulled every fuse in the car and it didn't change but it randomly will be .400 and the car will die overnight or it will be .01 and the car can sit and not die
 

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Does your instrument cluster indicate park when you have excess drain on the battery and the PCM will not go to sleep.

May be the selector lever. Have seen that issue on at least one or two F150s. I believe I've also seen it on a few others. On the focus the TCM might do the same.

For that matter any input that would be responsible for waking it could cause it not to sleep.
 

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On that model, the charging and electrical management system is way overboard in my opinion and the beauty of simplicity can only be appreciated when problems such as these occur. It is impossible to write everything here so I uploaded some documents from Ford's manual that explain how the system works and suggest ways on how to troubleshoot problems.

Some quick checks - a faulty battery monitoring sensor (incorporated in the negative battery terminal) and failure to reset the battery monitoring system when battery was changed.

Wish you luck.

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