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Discussion Starter #1
Alright guys, me and another local ZX3'er might attempt to do a clutch swap tomorrow, but we need some info. Tried looking in the how to section but didn't see anything on the clutch swap, can someone enlighten us on this one?
 

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Does the MTX-75 drop down the bottom, or does it have to be removed out the top?
 

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im about to do mine aswell. i plan on just winging it. lol
if u have done a clutch before then u should be fine on the focus.

post any problems u have when ur done so i can get an idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok so appearantly i asked a retarded question. There's a reason why people ask questions before they do anything like this.

Can someone just delete this post.
 

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Step 1: Remove Trans.
Step 2: Replace clutch
Step 3: Install Trans.
Is that a real answer or did you just feel like being an ass?

Does the MTX-75 drop down the bottom, or does it have to be removed out the top?
It has to come out the bottom.

ok so appearantly i asked a retarded question. There's a reason why people ask questions before they do anything like this.

Can someone just delete this post.
Leave it open, we can check it throughout the day.
 

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not a stupid question at all. im sure there are alot of us wanting to know some tips. i would im about to do mine in the near future
 

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Heres a brief list of things you have to do or a procedure:

1- remove air box/ all things covering up motor mounts and drain out out tranny oil, at this time remove speed sensor
2- remover tires, brakes, rotors, ect
3- get a engine hoist and connect it to enigine and loosen motor mounts
4- drop engine down, make sure that nothing gets ripped off or broken(the vacuum cord)
5- Loosen the tranny
6- this is the hard one, take the tranny out, it will take a lot finess and helps to have another guy around
7- once the tranny is out replace the slave cyclinder
8- clean off fly wheel(or have it machined) and place clutch on with a alighnment tool
9- bolt tranny back on
10-put all drive train back together and bolt the engine back on to motor mounts, once done refill tranny with oil
11- connect all air box components ect
12- drive on clutch easy for the reccomended break in time
13- then go have fun with your new clutch'd car

You can go to Autozone and get a repair manual for the focus too, which is what I strongly reccomend, and follow instructions in that, it will save you time and money when all said and done, it is a time consuming job and took me about 1.5 days, but I was also replacing the CV joints and a bucnh of other things I though were worn out. Just to do the clutch will take at least 8 hours, more if you have never done one before. Just take your time and when you jack up your car make sure and use jack stands to support it so you dont get crushed.

Be safe,
weldman

PS. I am willing to give you more info just not re write this whole manual, so if you want PM me and ill be more than happy to write back some specifics
 

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Step 1: Remove Trans.
Step 2: Replace clutch
Step 3: Install Trans.
Wow... your insight into how the work needs to be done is astonishing... how did any of us get by before you came here..........
 

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Discussion Starter #11
^^^thank you. We didn't get to doing the clutch yesterday, and on the way home it went out on me, but was able to get it towed back to my place, where i'll be attempting it today, i'll try to see if i can get some extra hands. And thank you weldman for the brief write up, i'm sure i'll have some questions, and will be pm'ing
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ok so whats the verdict on mercon V, use it or don't use it? Thats all i was able to get right now and i've done some searching on here and some people are using it with no problems but others say no....
 

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Thats what I used, the auto tranny fluid(the one reccomended in the owners manual), ive had people tell me no too, but it has worked for 3 months now no problems what so ever, and I drove on it during a trip from Georgia to Michigan with no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok so i should be fine with it till i get something else then, cool, hope to finish it up tomorrow. Problem i ran into today was not being able to get the lower ball joint off the hub, so i decided to just leave it there. Is it possible to just remove the axel without having to get it out from the hub???
 

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well I dont know, I dont think so though, I ended up dissasembling basically my whole drivetrain, because I ended up replacing my CV joints(found out later that wasnt the problem). I ended up taking the CV joints completly out of the tranny before I even took the tranny out of the car. I had to take those nuts off in the center of the hub, talk about a PITA, I had a 6 foot torque bar to get it loose.

What I ended up having to do to get the ball joints loose was make a pivot point with a 4x4 block of wood and took a crow bar and pushed down on it, it was still hard to get out though. You cannot tear up that rubber boot on it, otherwise youll run into problems down the road and have to replace it. They also make special tools to get ball joints loose, I tried a tie rod separator for my truck, but it didnt work. You may be able to get it loose if you just take a rubber mallet and hit it, not hard though, to just loosen her up a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hmm, questionable but i'll try removing the axel without removing it from the hub tomorrow, it really has been too much of a pain so far trying to get that thing out. It did look like it started comin out, but seems stuck, and the boot didn't look like it was torn, just looked like it came out from the upper part of it where the joint goes into the hub, but i could be mistaken.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
ok is it really supposed to be that hard to remove the slave cyl. line from the tranny? i removed that little pin screw or w/e u call it and tried taking it out and it just about feels like i'm gonna break something, help...
 

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umm there should be a retaining clip, looks like it is made of a wire the size of a paper clip, if you dont remove that you will break the line, then you got to tug on it, but should be relitivlely easy.

Just take a electricians screw driver and pry it out towards the passengers compartment, I dont know if you got that one or not, you said you took out a clip but I cant remeber if there was 2 or 1.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
the screw i took out had like a 11mm nut on it, took that out and fluid started comin out, so i thought thats all i needed to remove, i'll search again to make sure there's nothing else.

Also another question, all i've got right now is a tire iron to remove the axel, the passenger side came out simple enough, was actually alot easier than i thought it would be, but do i have to drop the subframe to get to the driver side axel?
 
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