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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, it's been about two weeks since I put the header on and now the clutch is starting to slip pretty bad... it's so bad ALL of a sudden that when I get on it in second the RPM's jump to 6000 and I am only doing like 25-30 MPH...

My question is... since it is this bad all of a sudden should I just buy the clutch I want (spec stg.1) FOR the duratec and then get a flywheel later on that specifically made for the duratec??? Or should I wait a bit and get the flywheel from F2 and then I can buy a Zetec spec stg. 1 clutch and save a little bit on the clutch??? I don't know when I will be able to get the flywheel and clutch though thats why I am thinking about just getting the clutch... what should I do???[:(]
 

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save yourself the time and money and do both now. flywheels can be resurfaced and resued through 2 or 3 clutches (pretty much the life of the car once you have proper equipment set up)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well if I bought both so that I can save the money on the clutch I would really only be saving like 75 bucks and right now I can afford to shell out 660 bucks prolly closer to 690 with shipping... I mean I can but then I wouldn't be able to make my payment on the car... [:)]

I wouldn't have to worry bout labor cause I have a friend who will do it but can I use the stock flywheel???
 

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No reason you wouldn't be able to use the stock flywheel wicked. Only thing about that is you'll do twice the labor but it's better than driving and your clutch give out in the middle of no where.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
well I am almost NEVER in the middle of now where but you right it would be that one time I am actually out in the middle of now where and it gives out... and I don't have to do twice the work nor do I have to pay for twice the labor my friend will do it... I just have to wash his truck... lol
 

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that sucks Matt, get that checked out fast. You going to the next Racelegal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah if I get the clutch and it's on it's way I will go and wear the old clutch out to no end... [:D]
 

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How many miles do you have? Unless you're driving it like a 16 year old, the stock clutch should easily last to 100,000 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
no not driving like a 16 year-old... the occasional full throttle runs were all and I have 10,500 miles... remember I have mods intake, header, exhaust, tune.
 

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SkaAddict said:
How many miles do you have? Unless you're driving it like a 16 year old, the stock clutch should easily last to 100,000 miles.
He just has more power than the clutch allows apparently, plus the WOT runs don't help it.

[thumb]
 

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There's no way the stock clutch should be dead at 10,000 miles with a competent driver...I/H/E with a tune doesn't add enough power to cook the clutch in that short of time, there's guys on here who ran a turbo with a stock clutch for longer than that before it gave out. Although if you're doing full throttle dumps that would explain it (and IMO would qualify as driving like a 16 year old.) I'd take it to the dealer and bitch up a storm about getting it covered under warranty.
 

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Yeah, that's a thought. But the clutch is considered a part that wears out and therefore might easily be worn if a driver doesn't know how to properly drive a stick shift. Not a knock at you Wicked, just figuring what Ford would say in that case. I'd sure try it though.

[:D]
 

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If you do try the warranty thing, you might want to return the car back to stock, they might throw that at you also.
 

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^^
I'll agree with both points, the dealer will undoubtedly try to weasel their way out of honoring the warranty. It would help to know what's causing the problem...are you noticing any drips beneath the car after its been parked? The slave cylinder/TOB has been known to leak and get brake fluid all over the inside of the bellhousing, which coats the clutch and flywheel with oily fluid that causes the clutch to slip. And that should definitely be covered. I'm just finding it hard to believe that the clutch would wear down to the rivets in 10,000 miles unless every launch you've done is a burnout or your engine is pushing a ridiculous amount of power down through the drivetrain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't drop the clutch at every light... that would be pretty rediculous... The dealer will definately not cover the clutch... I had 3000 miles on the car bone stock except for tint and they told me that no matter if it has 500 miles or 3000 miles they are going to say it's driver error and then if it has anything over that they will say it's just normal wear and tear... already had the problem a while back when it felt like it was slipping...
 

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I hope to have my slipstreams on by next races, 17" bronze, woot woot.[bootyshak
 

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The Duratec clutches have been known to be weak. Several people have had problems and didn't even have any mods. I would guess that the clutch was crap from day 1, the mods didn't have much to do with it.

Considering that my wifes car is supercharged and is on the stock clutch which is not slipping I'd say it doesn't have anything to do with your mods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
well like I said... it had 3000 miles on it when I brought it in a while ago when it started acting up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
What the hell is a TSB?
 
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