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Hello,

I know there was a TSB back in 2004 for the noisy clutch issues, and apparently whoever had my focus may not have done it, or it came back. What should be done for a noisy clutch when the clutch is off? I am worried it's the transmission that's having issues, I only have 70k miles on the car, the tranny and it's been weird, particularly if I let off the gas while driving, you can feel slop between the engine load and brake and it makes the car jerk a little (regardless of how slow I let off)

I've read the TSB was to replace practically everything short of the transmission, and in some cases the whole transmission. I'm really hoping I don't have to do that as I really don't have the money and I love the car... Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Today more than prior days I noticed more noise than normal. It is colder out, so I don't know if that has any effects on anything. I also did just replace the stock LCAs with CFM Tubular LCAs, not sure if that would play a part in the noise.

I may be second guessing things right now, I do have a partial tune on the car as I haven't been able to really datalog it as much as I've wanted, and maybe the tune is just causing weird engine behavior that's being translated through the tranny, I'm not sure...
 

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Hello,

I know there was a TSB back in 2004 for the noisy clutch issues, and apparently whoever had my focus may not have done it, or it came back. What should be done for a noisy clutch when the clutch is off? I am worried it's the transmission that's having issues, I only have 70k miles on the car, the tranny and it's been weird, particularly if I let off the gas while driving, you can feel slop between the engine load and brake and it makes the car jerk a little (regardless of how slow I let off)

I've read the TSB was to replace practically everything short of the transmission, and in some cases the whole transmission. I'm really hoping I don't have to do that as I really don't have the money and I love the car... Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Today more than prior days I noticed more noise than normal. It is colder out, so I don't know if that has any effects on anything. I also did just replace the stock LCAs with CFM Tubular LCAs, not sure if that would play a part in the noise.

I may be second guessing things right now, I do have a partial tune on the car as I haven't been able to really datalog it as much as I've wanted, and maybe the tune is just causing weird engine behavior that's being translated through the tranny, I'm not sure...
 

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My 2004 clutch has been making a sound like marbles in a tin can for over 100K miles (in neutral when the clutch is fully released). I was told not to worry about it from the PO (who had 40K on the SVTF). I read the TSB more than once, and I paid attention to the symptoms. They weren't what I was experiencing, just the rattle. I don't remember about the weather affecting the noise, however, the rattle is inconsistant, sometimes not there and sometimes quite more noticeable. I have learned to live with it.
The "slop" might be something as simple as the transmission dog bone going bad.
Good luck.
 

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Tune wouldnt cause that and yes cold can effect it , raising your idle helps to about 950-1050 , I use mobile1 15/50 in all my and my Customers M Transmissions and that helps as well

The SVT clutch always made a noise and even the tsb fix didnt fix it

Tom
 

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Ok, two really good points have been brought up so far by others.
First: Change the fluid in your manual tranny. Yeah the OEM fluid is 'supposed' to be good for a bajillion miles, but when it gets to feeling notchy/difficult to up/downshift and making lots of noise, I change it and the aforementioned problems go away. Tom suggested he uses Mobil1 15w/50 synthetic in place of the OEM fluid ($10 @ Wmart, and you need 2), and this translates to a slightly higher viscosity than the OEM fluid. Within a couple short drives of changing it out, my synchros are happy again and she now shifts like a miata gearbox and the glywheel chatter noises at idle seem much reduced, but the chatter is simply related to the design. Mines got 119K hard-driven miles on original clutch/flywheel, so it's no spring chicken, but it works just fine.

Secondly, the OEM rear 'dogbone' torque mount is garbage (rubber bushings allow it to move a lot); replace it immediately with a urethane bushing 'dogbone' aftermarket component and it will get rid of most of the slop/slack and shifting problems you don't even realize you have yet, or maybe you do ;).
 

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Related to my last on the dogbone torque mount/urethane bushing suggestion; if given the option for street vs race bushings, choose street...the urethane are much stiffer than the OEM rubber bushings. The race bushing will rattle your teeth, so if it's your daily driver, don't do that to yourself. Also, I recommend the urethane bushings for when replacing your swaybar bushings/mounts, which may be disintegrating by now (I use Prothane street bushings and very happy with them!).
 
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