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Discussion Starter #1
What did you guys pay overall? I can get a stock focus clutch for 180. I have no clue what they charge to put it in. Today was the first time it has slipped for me. I had 4 people in the car. Over 600lbs. So how much did you pay for your clutch and labor.
 

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I did my own install on my current clutch, prior to that I had Tom (at Focus-Power) put in a CM Stage 4 (which later turned out to be defective) for the cost of the clutch, although I had already paid $400 to have the transmission taken off for a Quaife and 4.06 gears.

Most shops will charge you a flat rate to drop the transmission, plus labor on installing the new clutch and other related parts and bleeding the system afterwards. I'd expect to pay (on top of the price of the clutch) somewhere in the $600-$700 range.
 

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I found an exedy (sp?) stage 1 pretty cheap...

and my mech, is a a good guy, I don't think he'd charge me all too much
 

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do what me and my friends do! get a REALLY good friend who is a mechanic and work at a farm where you have every tool possible haha.
 

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A transmission drop really isn't all that hard...there's a definite learning curve to it, and its simply a dirty, nasty job. Having done it once, I could probably do it again in about half the time. The real obsticle is manuvering the transmission clear of the subframe, chassis and engine once its off the block. It can be done with jackstands (its how I did it,) but access to a lift would make the job much easier. There's also a lot of prep work you have to do just to get the transmission unbolted...remove the battery, intake system, driver's side engine mount, both axles, loosen the suspension, pull the ball joints out of the spindles, and so on. There's also a lot of parts to keep track of...such as the bellhousing bolts which have to go back in the same order they came out in. With the help of my friend who works as a diesel mechanic and with access to an industrial/commercial air compressor and air tools, we took two nights working 8-9 hours per night to get the job done completely. If you're going to try it yourself, I'd suggest reserving an entire weekend (and even then maybe another day or two more) for the job. This isn't something you can do in a couple of hours or even a day on your first try unless you're very experienced with removing transmissions from front-wheel drive cars.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
id like to go with a stage 2 because i have plans of going FI once i get back from basic training. The clutch will probably have to be replaced b4 i leave in october. Any suggestions on brands. I'd like pretty smooth driveability.
 

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The 4-puck CM clutch I had before had really harsh engagement...some people may like that, but I don't like making jack-rabbit starts and chewing the clutch and flywheel up. I'm running a 6-puck Spec now and I really like the engagement...its smooth, but the clutch still grabs hard. Most stage-2 clutches are full disc and will be slightly more aggressive than stock with the same easy engagement.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i thought the higher the puck the rougher the driveability?
 

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Other way around...more pucks=more friction material, but less hold. A 6 puck is putting all of the pressure from the pressure plate to the flywheel through 6 pucks vs. 4, so the pressure-per-puck is lower on a 6-puck clutch, resulting in easier engagement.
 
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