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Discussion Starter #1
Went to the salvage yard to get some spare for my daughter's car for her snow tires.

So I'm tramping around the Focus section on the yard with my battery powered impact gun looking for decent wheels.

What surprised me is that my 19mm socket didn't fit over the sockets fully. Neither did the 3/4" socket. I got it to work but something surprised me.

All the lug nuts that I saw on Foci were of the closed variety (acorns? caps?). Then came the surprise with one of the them, the chrome cap pulled off.

Her car has normal, old style open lug nuts so I have no experience with these fancy ones.

Is the cap supposed to come off before you start wrenching?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Maybe they were rusty which expanded the chrome cap. I had to hammer the socket onto a few of the nuts to get it to work. Of course that made it fun to get the socket off the nut.

I'll give those lug nuts some consideration. They look nicer than what's on there now but it's my daughter's car and she doesn't car much about looks when it comes to things automotive.
 

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My last focus and current focus both had “swollen” lug nuts (found the ford receipt in the first one). Not sure if they don’t hold up or it’s a problem from over torquing but seems to me that if I buy another, I’ll throw all the nuts in the trash like I did the past 2 times. Go to your local auto parts store and get open lugs of the proper thread. The chrome ones will rust and flake anyway. Pepboys near me keeps them in the hardware drawers.
 

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Thanks. Maybe they were rusty which expanded the chrome cap. I had to hammer the socket onto a few of the nuts to get it to work. Of course that made it fun to get the socket off the nut.

I'll give those lug nuts some consideration. They look nicer than what's on there now but it's my daughter's car and she doesn't car much about looks when it comes to things automotive.
It doesn't really matter what they look like. If you find something cheaper, go for it. I would just suggest staying away from the POS factory ones with the cap.
 

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The capped lug nuts with the steel nut inside and the pressed on outer shell are crap. Ive tried several brands - including Ford. If you are like me and use a impact wrench and the tires are off/on a lot for rotations, etc., the caps either quickly deform -making the lug nut difficult to remove from the socket - or the cap just falls off. On both of my Focus Ive since swapped over to the solid lug nuts of the type recommended by TboneZX3 with no more issues.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Just another way to get more money out of you selling crap parts.

When I was in parts I sold those capped types at a rate of 50/1 compared to oldschool plain one piece lug nuts.
 

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Actually, the capped lugnuts are a safety feature, and are sometimes referred to as "safety" lugnuts. If a solid, 1-piece lugnut is used on an application that it is not designed for, and the lug is too long for the nut, the nut will bottom on the lug and not tighten properly against the wheel, leading to an unsafe condition. The capped lugnuts are designed to come apart in a case like this and, since the core of the capped nut is hollow and threaded completely through, the cap will be forced to break off and the nut will still tighten against the wheel.

This is really a case of the manufacturers covering their asses more than saving money. I'm sure there is at least one lawyer you can thank for this.
 

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No.

' If a solid, 1-piece lugnut is used on an application that IT IS NOT DESIGNED FOR...'

Caps are mine. No OEM on the planet is legally liable for that, it being an outside of control issue brought on by user incompetence. The company lawyers would find that in about 15 seconds at investigation. The OEMs are not required pretty much at all to take care of all the stupid ways people can make cars more dangerous to themselves and other people on the roads next to them by means of messing with simple things not understood clearly at all. Why you always find an exclusion clause in warranty if any part is modded or changed up from OEM spec at all.

As well, all the still available one piece closed end lugs have to say on the card or box is to check the stud length for interference and the resultant hazard warning and they are then clear and free of any lawsuits if part is misapplied as well.

Not reading pertinent safety information is the biggest lawsuit loser there is.

What they have done there is more cynical than that, call them a safety device while making the nut both lighter and cheaper, they have less overall material in them. AND, the construction makes them far more likely to break, look at the replacement ratios of the two types. You need to look at the increase in sales of part there, why they TRULY changed. Ford has spent hundreds of millions of dollars trying to find all the ways parts that were good till the end of car life could be changed to become regular maintenance parts and cheaper at the same time, and if they can stress how the changes involve safety then even better.

Like 50 other parts on a Focus that used to be good until the day you junked the cars, now you have to buy a new one and often more sometimes during the cars' life where you never did before. Parts sales throughput is one of Ford's latter years huge profit makers. Buy more than one of the same model in different years and you can easily see the evolution of that over the last 30 years.

I sold so many more of the jacketed two piece lugs to our tire company clients there was no counting, even in a correct OEM use scenario they tear up like no tomorrow under air tool use.
 

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I understand that they break more easily and therefore have to be replaced more often. That's why I suggested to the OP that he buy 1-piece lug nuts in post #2 of this thread, and then later in post #5 I suggested he stay away from the OEM nuts, because they are POS.
 

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got a set of 20 of these at Parts Source for $20.

little warning if you live in the rust belt.. RUN AWAY from the capped lugs i lost count how many i have had to drill because the caps swell people use the incorrect size and spin the caps on the lugs rounding them off..

the capped lugs were ment for hubcapped cars (and some factory aluminum's depending on the year) the aluminum rim ones used open end ones as they are not seen under the center cap..

the set i have in the image is what i use i have them installed with a liberal application of anti-seize and they work on both the steelies and aluminum rims
here is what they look like installed


 

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Center cap? My wheels look like this

odd that year never came with those rims o_O those are identical to my 06's aluminum package (05+)

as for the nuts i would recommend buying a set of closed end solid acorn nuts and a can of antiseize my 06 actually came with solid acorns from the factory but somewhere in its past an idiot used a 50 foot pole and the threads were buggered so i just opted to just replace the nuts and studs all around this way they wont fail/break give me issues if i ever break down and one of the nuts feels like seizing and i have no tools with me.. the Key Socket on my set is a dual size end so no matter which size your factory wrench is it will fit it i usually just wrap the key in a blue shop towel and park it in one of the cubbies

your year car "USUALLY" came with these
every one of my 00-03's had these and only these

 

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The 16" aluminum wheels don't have a cap over them either, and they came with the capped lugnuts from the factory.
 

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as for the nuts i would recommend buying a set of closed end solid acorn nuts and a can of antiseize
The solid nut recommendation was made very early in this thread.

DO NOT use antiseize on lugs. If you do, don't use factory torque specs. Torque specs are for dry threads, and antiseize will greatly reduce the torque to turn the nut on the lug.
 

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The solid nut recommendation was made very early in this thread.

DO NOT use antiseize on lugs. If you do, don't use factory torque specs. Torque specs are for dry threads, and antiseize will greatly reduce the torque to turn the nut on the lug.
you are correct on that, i cinch mine to about 75lbs on my aluminum't doesn't stretch the lugs or waller out the rim bolt holes
checked it every 2 weeks for 2 months and only 2 nuts backed off slightly the rest were still at 75.

last time i took a rim off was to get to the serp tensioner and the nuts held fast and had no issues unscrewing and screwing them on by hand one doesnt need a 6 foot cheater bar if done right just sick of getting cars from mechanics that you can physically see the bolt has stretched which only leads me to have to replace them all as once a bolt starts to strech threading the bolt on by hand is impossible and possibly will snap down the road a stud can only stretch once then its had it

as for the solid nut recommendation on a previous post i already know but i always add to it and show my results..

and please feel free to come loosin the nuts off 2 of my cars that are waiting to have the crap capped studs drilled out because they are seeeized solid. and many people use antiseize on them with no issue.. just use common sence and just a fyi.. i have no issues doing 160-180 down the road and not worrying if my rims will fall off because in the 23 years of owning cars and doing it myself including my fleet of 25 or so focus wagons ive never had a rim fall off due to antiseize.. the only time i had a rum fall off was when someone took a car into a mechanic shop due to the fact it was dangerous to drive and it was cheaper to have someone fix it ( or so i thought) then to drive it the 3 hours back with barely any brakes.. the mechanic replaced the rear drums and bearings i told them to replace the axle nut they said it will be fine i told them to replace it anyways they said fine but they didn't the employee called me terrified after the car started to act funny i told them if your not that far away turn back and return it to the sho.. the car never made it the axle nut stripped out the rim/drum/hub let go and the car hit the ground blocking the mechanic shops driveway..

i ALWAYS use a torque wrench and tab the studs with graphite before cinching to 75.. feel free to go look at all my cars if you'd like.

as for being uncapped i wouldnt know the only rims i have that were 16 were my 06 and they had solid factory acrns that were fubared and i replaced with the aftermarkets. i will never use "tin capped" lugs on anyones car i would rather charge them $25 and tell them why as everyone i have spoke to actually admitted issues with capped ones in the past but no one offered to rectify or give an alternate. those customers are happy campers. [popcorn]
 

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I know this is an older thread, but I do have a pertinent lug nut question. My son just purchased a 2012 SE that has steel wheels and hubcaps. I went to check the brakes and I needed a breaker bar and a three foot piece of pipe to loosen the lug nuts. As expected, a few are now toast. I want to buy new one piece lug nuts, but I'm not sure if the ones recommended in a few threads will work. This lug nuts have a shoulder that helps attach the hubcap to the wheel. Does this wheel / hubcap combo require a special lug nut?
Thanks in advance for your help!
 
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