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My 2003 ZTS is overdue for a timing belt, and I believe is lacking performance thanks to how loose it is and a possible timing issue. How do you choose a kit? Looking at RockAuto theres like 2 dozen kits to choose from, which is quite overwhelming. Whats a good kit to go with?
 

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My 2003 ZTS is overdue for a timing belt, and I believe is lacking performance thanks to how loose it is and a possible timing issue. How do you choose a kit? Looking at RockAuto theres like 2 dozen kits to choose from, which is quite overwhelming. Whats a good kit to go with?
The Gates kit is pretty good. You will have an extra piece or two. Stay away from Dayco - weak belts. You can also get the Ford OEM pieces a la carte for a similar price and DO NOT reuse the old pulleys if you do that.

DOUBLE CHECK the tension pulley bolt length out the other end against the original piece. If it bottoms out in the hole without torquing the pulley it's bad.

While you're there consider serpentine belt idler and tension pulley replacement - keeps you from walking later.
 

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OEM for the pulleys and if you want extra strength the GATES does have a good race belt but will pay $$ and unless you are using it in that condition then likely would not need it.
 

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The Gates kit is pretty good. You will have an extra piece or two. Stay away from Dayco - weak belts. You can also get the Ford OEM pieces a la carte for a similar price and DO NOT reuse the old pulleys if you do that.

DOUBLE CHECK the tension pulley bolt length out the other end against the original piece. If it bottoms out in the hole without torquing the pulley it's bad.

While you're there consider serpentine belt idler and tension pulley replacement - keeps you from walking later.
Already new serp and tensioner. Both Dayco lol.

I do have a Kent Cams Competition belt that was included with the car when I bought it. Not sure if that's worth using.

So the general consensus is to use ford pulleys? May I ask what makes them better than "they're oe".

Also, there is multiple different gates kits on rock auto. Looks like one only has one pulley and the other two. I just need a belt and 2 pulleys, correct?

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Thats What She Said
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A kit would include a belt and two pulleys.

Also make sure you have the cam shaft key lock. You can use the Kent Cams belt or sell it... They make a good belt also.

Other than just saying that they are OEM they are a better quality, they have designed better bearings. they have higher quality control on the whole supply chain. They are not in the business of being price competitive to gain market share over the other company that may sell it for a few cents less.

after market ones have had a higher chance of not sitting flat and the belt then slowly walks off the idlers.

so generally anything that can cause your motor to blow up you want to go with OEM...
 

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I've used the Gates kit on mine and my parents Zetecs (2000 & 2002) .

Don't rush the tensioner and you'll be fine.


You can make your own cam alignment tools (bolt pin for crank and metal plate for cams)
 

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I've had official Ford branded idlers fall apart in less than 50K miles, the plastic broke up to let bearing come loose. Sad huh?

I spend for Gates and no issues doing it. Severall times now on multiple cars.
 

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I've had official Ford branded idlers fall apart in less than 50K miles, the plastic broke up to let bearing come loose. Sad huh?

I spend for Gates and no issues doing it. Severall times now on multiple cars.
Hmm. Conflicting experiences. Damnit I hate when this happens.

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No mater who you end up choosing you always have the possibility. at the price points its impossible to expect 100% lot test and quality review of each part. They try to be six sigma but you will always have some fall out.

expected life of a light bulb is guaranteed for 5000 hours... but have you had some that fail at 10 hours and others that have gone on for 10+ years at 20,000 hours?

Go with what makes you feel good at night knowing that you did your best and any part can fail and be much shorter than the expected life.

Gates and Motorcraft OEM parts are both good brands and have good products.
 

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Six sigma, a joke. More ways to keep the few good workers they have so paranoid they become crap like the rest of them. The perfect way to get employees focussed on things that cause you to lose money. So you can lose more. Look up that thing about the 58 major companies that went to it wholeheartedly and then 91% of them lost share on the stock market. If in the business you should already know where your errors come from or you should not be running the company unless you want to be Ken Lay of Enron. Six sigma is an ivy league school sucker job..............
 

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I disagree it is a joke. At least where I work (Nestle) we use Six Sigma in conjunction to lean manufacturing, TPM, and 5S, and we run a very tight ship. If a company gives up on it, its because they are not committed to the process. Its more than a process, its a culture. When it becomes a culture, you get results.
 

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It sounds like I touched on a sensitive subject that may have had a negative first hand experience...

While Six Sigma in terms of being certified and a black belt and such I do have some question to its usefulness. If I wanted to pay the $$$ you can be a green belt in a weekend and a black belt in a couple weeks.

The six sigma process is to make it so you have a little chance for defects along the whole chain so the end product will pass some sort of inspection 99.9999% of the time... not sure if I have enough 9's :). In the case of semiconductor manufacturing there are hundreds of steps and if each one is only 99% efficient you end up having HUGE amount of loss/scrap.

The point of identifying this was it was one on the top of my head. Any company that has a labor and overhead rates such that its more profitable to produce parts that last their life than parts that have life time warranty will have some sort of continuous improvement process. (Thinking of Tommy Boy...) Think of all the Chinese alternators, or starters, or other parts at the part store that are lifetime but cost much less than a U.S. made. (I am not saying anything with a life time is bad but the parts that are really cheap and life time usually are. MOOG is a premium part and has lifetime but your paying a lot more for those parts)

Story time...
If you have a pulley kit from company A and B.

A has such cheep labor and overhead but knows market price is around $50 then they can sell it for $40 and still make a lot of money because as a mass people are wanting to save $10 even if its cheaper made. They see 50% warranty request but its ok, it only cost them $10 to make so they are still making money. You can return the item 3 times before they brake even.

B has a higher labor and overhead rate. This higher labor rate is usually due to more skilled labor, higher overhead due to more quality control and process that help deliver a more consistent product (sometimes it is just because there is a lot of management who want to get paid manager pay...) regardless lets say it takes them $30 to build the kit sell it for the $50 market price. If they have to warranty item that part even once they are now losing money on that transaction.

continuous improvement is beneficial to companies where it matters. Regardless of the type


Now to get back on the OP topic?

Your timing belt and pulleys are one of the items that will leave you stranded. The Zetec is a non interference motor so will not hit the pistons to the valves with the timing belt brakes. So you don't have the motor will go BOOM if it brakes fear. But it will leave you on the side of the road with a $500 bill if it goes to the shop. So pick a brand that you have heard about, that makes belts, and makes kits for a range of cars (look in the higher price brackets)

I would pick out a kit like you might pick out a restaurant for a nice date. Don't want to go to McDonnalds, so avoid the cheep stuff. But also going out to a Gordon Rammsy Stake house at $150 is likely a bit much for a date (unless she is that kind of date, and I would say the Focus is not that kind of date. If you paid more than $100k for your car then it might start to be). Look for the $50 a stake restaurant that other people all like to go to and stop thinking about it. Will every one have a 100% awesome experience, no but most will.

At this point I am just typing because I am procrastinating going back to work.

Get a GATES or a Ford Motorcraft OEM kit. Or if you have a Kent CAM belt just get the two pulleys from GATES or Ford.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm planning on just the two pulleys now. Thinking the gates, but I need to go look at just pulleys as I haven't yet.

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Discussion Starter #16
Now looking at just pulleys, and I'm overwhelmed. I'm looking on rock auto(should I be looking elsewhere?) and apparently there are different sizes of pulleys? There's a section for timing belt pulley - only 3 options, timing belt tensioner - 5 options, and timing belt idler - 10 options. Now these are the number of options to choose from, not the number of different sizes. But in the idler section there are 2 different sizes to choose from. And there's no motorcraft to choose from. Am I over thinking all of this? I need my hand held apparently.

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Are you making it harder than it is? likely, easiest to just call Ford dealership and ask for the parts. but may cost you a bit more money.

You are getting confused at the dimensions. Pulled up the items for your 2003 DOHC and there are only two pulleys. a Timing Belt Pulley (the idler) and the Timing belt Tensioner. they are the same size. one appears to be 1mm wider but should not matter.


Or just get the kit TCK294B and have an extra belt on hand.
 

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Hmmm? Six Sigma? I just learned all a lot about it. Not sold on it myself, I was an inspector of machined back before all this new talk of lean manufacturing started in the early 80's. I still don't see the point in improving the process if the people on the line are the ones inspecting their own parts. How ironic. "how could my batch of parts be wrong...I made them myself!) D'OH![???:)]

My zts has just over 207K miles on it, is a rust bucket, and has bad suspension. But it still runs good and still has the OEM timing components. [headbang] So, without consulting here first I went and bought an Amazon kit from Evergreen. The kit part # is TBK294BVCT as mentioned here.

It comes with a Kabuki WP, new bolts and o-ring seal and is packed inside a opaque cellophane bag making seeing it difficult. Never heard of them but that means nothing since it is a chinavietnapese mutant I suppose. It is the one with the cast impeller not the phenolic impeller. From what I can teel the pump is highly refined from a surface finish point of view but since it's not really visible this is a moot point. The mating surfaces seem to look nice and smooth but not newly machined shiny. Like it was machined first and then lightly bead blasted removing the machine marks.

Anyway, I have one question is about water pumps.

Overall, putting the OEM vs aftermarket disputes aside, which impeller would be considered the better of the two types in this particular engine? Is the phenolic one or the cast one considered better and is one more efficient than the other?

SOOO....

For what it's worth I think the quality of the GMB pulleys look and feel OK. The tensioner has a plastic spring retainer that does not make me feel very confident unfortunately. It's actually just a dust or crud shield but regardless it could have been sheet steel just the same. The bearing itself feels good but it does have about 0.005 wobble to it. That's not good. That may go away after it's tightened but it doesn't look like it. But for an engine that I don't expect to last another year, I'm going to run with it anyway. The tensioner was conveniently missing it's box and there are no identifying marks on it so who knows what it actually is, it is supposed to be from GMB however. [dunno]

The idler pulley is in a GMB box and actually has a GMB bearing part number on it (E6203RTN). It's packed in a cellophane bag too. Can't really tell how good the bearing is because it needs to be tightened onto something first. I might send all this back so I don't want to open it just yet.

The belt is an ITM Parts belt (#4394) and the kit number (#294) both printed on it. Likely not a very high quality belt but who knows? They can't have 100% failure rate right? Maybe I'll be one of the lucky ones for once.

Time will tell if it self destructs within the first 10K miles. Nevertheless, the engine may be too far gone to worry about even installing it. It leaks about a quart of oil a week now. I haven't had time to crawl under it to see where it is leaking yet. I wrote about this in another thread however and made a simple mistake in the heading and got flamed as a retard as a result. So I don't want to go there.

Oh yeah, I missed the last piece, the cover gasket (VC20205). It comes in a plastic bag all wadded up. It appears to be rubber (rubberized plastic??). Who knows if it will seal? Right now the VC gasket on the car does not leak after 207K miles.
 
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