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Force-Powered Focus
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Okay, so I blew the right front speaker on my audiophile system. I already had upgraded the sub to the JL audio 10-inch sub, and added two JL audio tweets up front. So, I wanted to get that thing working again right away. I personally think this stock audiophile system was great on the 2005, so I was going to just get the same speaker from Ford. Well, I ended up getting my hands on the 6x9s that are used in the Lincoln LS's premium system (THX-certified) instead! Woot! I am still unsure who makes them for Ford...I think it is Visteon or JBL. Anyways, they are friccin' sweet, and the sound is fuller throughout the car, especially as you turn it up! May be b/c the RMS is 55w on these, instead of the 30w for the Sonys.

Well, this is what they look like, and I wanted to get some pics of what the doors look like inside, for the 2005-2007s, in case people haven't seen it Additionally, I used this how-to, so thanks!
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2298870.
I didnt reuse the stock pads b/c the new ones were about 3/4 of an inch thinner than the stock Sonys.

Stocker in the door:



Old vs. New:


New in the door:
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #3
i would say the difference rally is how they interact with the sub...the sound really complements each other. it is really noticeable as you turn it up...the ceiling is higher, and the distortion range is lessened, so everything stays that much crisper as everything gets louder...before, the bass could overpower the overall sound.
 

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I'm wondering if these are the same premium speakers we were buying like crazy from PartsExpress.com ... do you happen to remember what the PN from the back is?
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #5
no, i dont know the number, but they arent the same thing. close, but here is a pic of what ur talking about:
 
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So, did you get rid of the tweets on the door sail panels now that you have a component set in your door? Also, why go with stock audio parts and not aftermarket? (not bashing, just asking)

They look good none the less. [thumb]
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #7
lol, b/c these are better than many aftermarkets. just look at the rms. and no, i still have the tweets. the audio guys said i should leave them in, to add more sound up high, and to go with the increased bass.
 

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lol, b/c these are better than many aftermarkets. just look at the rms...
Not to be nitpicky but most aftermarkets are 60W RMS and up, personally I've heard these and while yes these do sound better than stock focus speakers, most aftermarket speakers will blow these away. Nice find nonetheless but, I'd spend a few extra dollars and go with a decent aftermarket set as by the time you remove the panels it's well worth the extra few dollars [thumb]
 

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Not to be nitpicky but most aftermarkets are 60W RMS and up, personally I've heard these and while yes these do sound better than stock focus speakers, most aftermarket speakers will blow these away. Nice find nonetheless but, I'd spend a few extra dollars and go with a decent aftermarket set as by the time you remove the panels it's well worth the extra few dollars [thumb]
Also, RMS ratings do not define sound quality, nor "how loud" a speaker can play.
 

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Detailing Freak
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Also, RMS ratings do not define sound quality, nor "how loud" a speaker can play.
i beg to differ on the loudness portion

rms is the amount of power the speaker can handle, the more power, the louder you can go without distortion

as fas as the sq, it depends on teh composition of the speaker/tweeter that determines the sq. cone structure, coil size, surround material, etc
 

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i beg to differ on the loudness portion

rms is the amount of power the speaker can handle, the more power, the louder you can go without distortion

as fas as the sq, it depends on teh composition of the speaker/tweeter that determines the sq. cone structure, coil size, surround material, etc
Speaker efficiency will allow the speaker to "get louder" without adding power.

How much "power" a speaker can handle is really heat dissipation which is what most people refer to as "RMS". Adding power may result in a louder speaker, but it is not directly what causes the loudness. For example: 120 volts x 1 amp = 120 watts or 12 volts x 10 amps = 120 watts, having a speaker play these two scenarios will cause a drastically different sound but it is the same power

In most cases when you are hearing distortion it is coming from the source rather than the speaker's performance or ability to dissipate heat. The source could be the WAV/MP3/Satellite Radio, etc.... the head unit or the amplifier (depending on what other components you have these could also affect the end signal that is sent to the speaker)

The problem with car audio is that everyone wants HIGH VOLTAGE GIGAWATTS (sarcasm).

If you're ever in my area I'll let you listen to "20 watts" of louder than you've ever heard music. Or I can let you listen to 150 watts of "bass" that will have you second guessing.
 

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Correct, but most of your higher RMS speakers have better Sound Quality.
Partially correct.

In the car audio world there are 3 basic levels...

1 - entry/mid level equipment
2 - what everyone thinks is the best (latest and greatest)
3 - audiophile level equipment

The marketing for car audio has turned this world in to level 2 lovers. This is the level where RMS means quality and that more power is better (all around).

Real audiophile level equipment has sound quality (and volume) at much lesser power requirements. This is not to say that audiophile level equipment can not handle larger amounts of power.


If you're trying to make the point that higher RMS usually means better sounding equipment, then you would also believe more expensive equipment means better sound. Neither of these are always the case and should not be the basis on what determines quality.
 

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If you're trying to make the point that higher RMS usually means better sounding equipment, then you would also believe more expensive equipment means better sound. Neither of these are always the case and should not be the basis on what determines quality.
Once again, partially the point I'm trying to make, most equipment out there nowadays that is 60 Watts RMS and up will blow these speakers out of the water. Keyword is most. But in this case, most of the aftermarkets will blow these away. I've never been one to say oh yeah, the more expensive the better, as I know that is untrue. Hell I'm running a basic set of Kappa's and with my setup they kick ass compared to some of the systems I've heard.

Let me rephrase my last post: "Correct, but most of your higher RMS speakers have better Sound Quality than these OEM speakers"

Real audiophile level equipment has sound quality (and volume) at much lesser power requirements. This is not to say that audiophile level equipment can not handle larger amounts of power.
And while some of what you are saying is correct, most of your TRUE audiophile equipment is usually a higher RMS than 55 or 60. Most stuff that I would consider to be in the audiophile area is about 90 to 110 Watts RMS, not saying there might not be a few 60 or 70 RMS sets in there, but most of what is branded toward the audiophiles is around 90 to 110 Watts which is on the higher side.

BTW, I'm in your area, bring your car to the next Mid-Atlantic Meet, I'd love to hear your system [thumb]
 

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Let me rephrase my last post: "Correct, but most of your higher RMS speakers have better Sound Quality than these OEM speakers"
I'll agree to that.

And while some of what you are saying is correct, most of your TRUE audiophile equipment is usually a higher RMS than 55 or 60. Most stuff that I would consider to be in the audiophile area is about 90 to 110 Watts RMS, not saying there might not be a few 60 or 70 RMS sets in there, but most of what is branded toward the audiophiles is around 90 to 110 Watts which is on the higher side.

BTW, I'm in your area, bring your car to the next Mid-Atlantic Meet, I'd love to hear your system [thumb]
I don't do meets. I don't mesh well with the majority of retards/cool guys/hot shots/*insert other stereo-typical remark* that show up to meets.

The audio equipment I was referring to earlier is not in a car but in my testing/lab room.

Please list some of the high-end audiophile equipment you're referring to, just curious.
 

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Focused Focus
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Glad to see they made it to ya Nemesis. Those are the best that Ford has stock. Dont be fooled guys, these are VERY good speakers and rival alot of the aftermarket plate systems. They should, they cost as much. I sent these to Nemesis as i had some extras. Im glad to hear you like them. I love the way they sound even compared to the SVT Audiophile ones, which are a plate type also. I do believe theyre made either by Alpine or JBL. Just one correction, theyre 5x7's as are most of Ford speakers.
 

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Force-Powered Focus
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Discussion Starter #18
oh okay, thanks...when i measured them, they were just over 5 and just over the 7, so i figured 5x8, but hey, ill take the 5x7!

alpine or jbl huh? well there you go guys, those are top of the line aftermarket guys right there!
 
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