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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 Ford Focus ZXW Wagon 2.0L 190K Automatic

Hey all,

Here's my story/questions. I'll try to keep it short, clear, and concise the best I can.

Check Engine Light has been on for a year. It's a Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor code. It never seemed to run any differently so I admittedly kind of ignored it. Recently I checked the codes and now a Mass Air Flow sensor code. I was planning on replacing both sensors and hoping it wouldn't come back.

It has been idleing a bit rough. Its been surging a bit, almost like a vacuum leak, but very mild, maybe a hundred or two rpms at most. Some vibration in the wheel also, even in Park just sitting in the driveway no feet on the brakes or anything.

Valve cover gasket is leaking is also on my list of things to do.

Yesterday, I checked the oil. I was down maybe a quart. I know, I'm not getting many points for being a good car owner right now.

Today I get in to go to the store. It's pouring rain. My gas light is on. I drive about 6 miles and as I'm accelerating away from a stop light (flat, not on a hill) it loses power but still eventually accelerates. I'm like "shit, almost out of gas but I can almost see the gas station." I can see smoke in the rearview but I'm not sure if it's smoke or the rain because it's pouring out. I get there. Gas up. Go on my way. Feel it lose power again. I pull over. I see a rather steady amount of smoke from the tail pipe. I turn around and try to make it home.

It's going ok but I'm limping it and I can feel it's not getting the power it should. I start going up a hill, check engine light must have turned off at some point because I noticed it flash on. Immediately see the smoke in the rearview again and it start to hesitate. Seems to hesitate and smoke when it's running poorly but intermittently it runs smooth and there's no smoke.

The temp gauge never seems to spike by the way.

Now I'm about 3 miles from home and the check engine light starts flashing. The last two miles it's really losing power and I'm doing maybe 25mph or less when I pull in my driveway.

I check the oil. It may have been frothy? but it's also pouring out and I'm not sure if a rain drop hit it. Anyhow, I check the dipstick a second time and the oil level is were it was yesterday (about halfway between the marks.)

I let it cool for about 10 minutes. Go back to see if the Check Engine Light is still flashing or if it flashes on crank, which I read on here could be a crank sensor issue. It comes on steady and the car idles as it has been with slight surges. The CEL does not flash.

I need to get the codes read. I know that the flashing CEL indicates a misfire

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance if you've read this far!!! lol
 

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Sure, you have misfires - buy why? Could be ignition but it could also be lean/rich issues.
Not only get the DTCs but you need to look at live engine data on a scan tool. I would look at the RFP and ST/LT FT data PIDs. Otherwise you are guessing.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sure, you have misfires - buy why? Could be ignition but it could also be lean/rich issues.
Not only get the DTCs but you need to look at live engine data on a scan tool. I would look at the RFP and ST/LT FT data PIDs. Otherwise you are guessing.

Good luck
Paul
Paul

This year is known to have issues with the fuel pump. Maybe the pump is weak and not getting the right amount of fuel to the engine causing a lean envirionment? I will do some research on the fuel trims, don't know much about it actually. And my apologies, what does RFP stand for? Thanks so much!
 

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2006 ZX5 2.0, 2004 ZX3 SVT EE. 2004 ZX3 SVT
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Valve cover leaking will fill the plug wells to the top with oil and cause misfires. Get busy fixing. Do not pull the spark plugs until you soak up all of the oil around the plugs. Twisting up paper towels works well. The maf code could be from a dirty lifetime air filter. I would start with the valve cover and spark plugs.
 

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what does RFP stand for?
Relative Fuel Pressure. The PCM varies fuel pressure depending on manifold pressure (vacuum), the data PID takes this into account so the relative fuel pressure is constant (should be ~40 psi).

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So the plot thickens...

Rented an OBDII code reader from NAPA. Here are the pending codes: (7 altogether)

P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Sensor A Circuit High (also in Stored Codes on OBDII reader)
P0193 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit High Bank 1 (also in Stored Codes on OBDII reader)
P0300 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected
P0303 Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0352 Ignition Coil B Primary Control Circuit/Open
P0353 Ignition Coil C Primary Control Circuit/Open

Drove it 6 miles round trip to NAPA. Drives well, then loses power and smokes, drives well, then loses power and smokes...I'd say it drives well only about 25% of the time though...most of the time I'm shitting my pants hoping it doesnt die in the middle of an intersection.

I'll get some live data soon...
 

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2002 ZX5
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How much is the reader rental? I mean, a cheap Bluetooth reader is under $15 on Amazon, and the Torque app is another $6, so I can't imagine it takes many rentals before you'd be better off owning.

Plus there's a lot to be said for knowing exactly what the light is indicating within a minute or two of it coming on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Looking like it might be a blown head gasket. Milky oil on dipstick. I had just added maybe 3/4 of a quart three days ago and it definitely was not milky. Also milky sludge on the underside of the oil cap... could this explain the misfire on 2 and 3? Coolant in the cylinders keeping it from firing? Would that give me a ignition coil error code though? Coolant reservoir isn't empty but it's looking low.

Any recommendations on a sealer? I used Bar's Leak Head Gasket Fix on a Civic years ago and got another 18 months out of the car. I'm not putting much more money into this car. I'm not going to have a shop do a head gasket, to much money. Wondering if I could do it myself? I've rebuilt twin cylinder motorcycle engines??
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That was your opening post. You didn't mention milky oil. So now you suspect a blown head gasket.

I suspect a fake troll post like many others posted here.
Thanks for all your input. I'm not a fake troll if that's what you're suggesting. Sorry for any misunderstanding?
It wasn't milky yesterday. It is today.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all your input. I'm not a fake troll if that's what you're suggesting. Sorry for any misunderstanding?
It wasn't milky yesterday. It is today.
or perhaps it was less milky yesterday and I missed it?
 

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I'm not going to have a shop do a head gasket, to much money. Wondering if I could do it myself? I've rebuilt twin cylinder motorcycle engines??
The expense of doing a head gasket really lies in all the other stuff that you're gong to be taking out and putting back; while obviously the gaskets need to be replaced, unless the timing belt, (and water pump, that's just a given when doing the timing belt) crank and cam seals, (same) plugs, wires, engine and transmission mounts, etc. are all pretty new, it only makes sense to replace them while you've got the engine that far taken down.
Even still, you can do all that yourself for less than most shops are going to charge for just the head gasket itself, plus the other gaskets that have to come off and can't be reused. There's no special magic skill to it: if you can work a torque wrench, you should be pretty well set. Spend an evening or two on YouTube learning the quirks of these engines, gather all the parts and tools (most of the YT guys are great about giving the bolt head sizes as they go) and go for it.
 

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This thread is great. I read the opener twice. You're either gonna throw a lot of money and personal time at that focus, or let it die. Are you near KC? I need a hatch with glass intact.
 
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