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Discussion Starter #1
What would be the easiest way to remove? I need new ones due to seized bushing/bolts. Do i just cut the nut off of the back? And is there even room back there to do it? How have you guys done this job? Thanks..And some pics would be PERFECT!

mike
 

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If you are replacing the LCA anyway, you should consider cutting inside the knuckle. If you cut the nut and bolt head off, you'll still have to drill the bolt out a bit so the arm will drop.

Try your damndest not to cut the upper cam bolt on the crossmember, it's like $20 only from Ford.....

I've done mine twice, the first time I cut inside the knuckle like I describe above. The second time I wanted to save the LCA so I cut the bolt head and nut off, then drilled/dremeled the bolt out of the sleeve so I could re-use the LCA....not worth it for the $60 LCA but I wanted to try it....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
THANKS! do you have a pic of where you cut or can show exactly where? That would be key. Also i read actually ina thread from WD40 that you can remove the inner lca bolts on the crossmember and the springs will come out that way. I am just trying to get some ideas together before i go ahead and buy the lca's from b16 on here.

http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1771498&#post1771498

anyone do it that way?

thanks
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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heres a pic i have



cutting that last bit off was a BIG pain. very difficult not to cut the knuckle.

i also have this pic, when I cut out the inner bolts I had to first cut the lca itself to get enough clearance




this one is the outer, had to do the same clearancing on the other side for the outer.






you can see in this pic i cut the washer off from behind the cam bolt head, it made things easier.

 

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Discussion Starter #6
thanks! a bunch... luckily my inner lca bolts that bolt to the crossmember are fine.. they break lose like butter... so i won't have to work with those...

soo.. it just looks like you cut at the bottom of the lca? did you use a cut off wheel? or a small saw zaw?

i am still thinking about just removing the inner lca bolts to the crossmember and dropping the lca down that way to get the springs out...

Mattzx3.. i have a torch but not acedalyne... i dunno if i could just melt the bolts with what i have.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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when i did mine, i used a torch and melted the bolts and nuts off. no drilling required
you also annealed your subframe making it weaker and more prone to line dislocation (aka breaking)

i do not recommend this method.

i used a cutoff wheel on a die grinder. At that point I had ~2 years of experience hand fabricating tubular frames, so it was just fun for me.

I had to slip the cutoff wheel between the lca and the knuckle or subframe and cut through the metal bushing and bolt assembly (i say assembly because... well you see the pics lol).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well i def don't have experience like you do haha... i just to swap the springs in the most efficient way possible. If i can do it without cutting.. then that's the way to do.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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in that case remove the inner bolts and call it a day

go get an alignment when youre done. have them set the rear toe to .15 degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
this thread has been very helpfull... Thanks Illinipo! [thumb]

Im going to try the inner bolts... BTW can these bolts be reused? or are they the kind you need to replace. I didn't think tha was the case but wanted to make sure before i removed anything. Thanks

mike
 

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Adam
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You SHOULD replace them. Though they're a pretty penny for just bolts nuts and washers. Mine cost $60.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
well when you get ur car aligned they change how the bolt sits.. without replacing..
 

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Adam
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I honestly don't remember why you should replace them. I just remember a macanic telling me its a better idea. And no it wasn't any dealership it was a honest guy.
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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the inner bolts shouldnt be torque-to-yield (which is the reason to replace the outers if removed normally)

i would be very surprised if they were for the same reason Insane stated.


Other bolts that I strongly recommend replacing are the strut pinch bolts, they are indeed torque to yield and have a special locking compound on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
^^^ you mean the bolt that atatches to the knuckle?
 

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Token Engin-nerd
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yeah the one that holds them into the hole, it goes through the tab on the back of them

also, you should get new bearings for the struts. might as well while theyre out. And I would also get a new nut for the top of the struts. They are ny-loc nuts and dont take kindly to removal and replacement...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
^^^ i got the frpp kit from b16sir1991... so it came with new bearings and the front strut/springs already assembles FTW! all i need to worry about is the damn rear LOL
 
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