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I'm changing my cylinder head soon, bought a used one with low miles on it from CFM. I suspect one of the exhaust valves on cylinder 2 is not sealing (160-130-160-160). I'll do one more round of test next weekend, forgot to do the wet test. But I'm ordering parts such as the head gasket, and was wondering what to expect when I take off the original one.

So I bought a Ajusa Fibermax and bolt kit thinking that was the way to go; all my friends tell me to use a MLS type, but I have no idea what the surface RA will be on the replacement head and my existing engine block. I'm not sure yet about warping as well, will find out when I pull the head off. So I guess Turbo Tom should be able to give me an idea of what to expect here.

Not sure if I should beef up the replacement head first and then install it. Or just bolt it on after some checks and upgrade the original head and save it for later when I do the lower end later in the summer.
 

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Need a lot more info , what engine , whats the goal , what are you doing this summer

Hands down use ARP head studs , there reusable , better clamping power etc etc

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Need a lot more info , what engine , whats the goal , what are you doing this summer

Hands down use ARP head studs , there reusable , better clamping power etc etc

Tom
It's a Zetec 2.0L DOHC engine, believe it's refereed to as engine code VIN3 with Automatic Trans 4F27E.

The first goal is to get rid of an annoying noise that comes from my FSWerks exhaust system and perhaps a clicking sound from the engine when it's cold. The annoying sound sounds like puff... puff ... puff upon acceleration in the 1800 to 2500 RPM range. Not sure what the clicking sound is but it gets quiet when warmed up. I got rid of all the other noises that I have been chasing like some sort of vibration, and fixed all the oil leaks, running that Torco SR-1 oil now since last Sunday. At first I thought it was my CAT being clogged, or the ceramic cores being loose, so I took off the CAT and soaked in soapy water, tested the CAT for vibration and it checked out good. Then I went upstream and replaced the intake and exhaust gaskets, checked for vacuum leaks, replaced all sensors up top. Fixed the PCV leak as well and finally did a compression test dry (160-130-160-160) but forgot to do the wet test to check the rings, in which I will do this weekend. But upon inspection of the cylinder head ports before the compression test, I found cylinder 2 to be really clean while the others appeared normal. And on cylinder 2, when I pulled the new spark plug, half the bottom was new and the other 1/2 was dry black, while the other plugs where full dry black.

Cylinder 2 exhaust port (130 cylinder), just looks too clean, like fuel is not burning 100% and flashing in the CAT, I'm not an expert so I can't say for sure, but I think one of the exhaust valves is not sealing, damage from overheating.

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Cylinder 1 exhaust port, this is how all the (160 cylinders) look.
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Cylinder 3 (160 cylinder) I just noticed, wonder if that black horizontal line is a crack? If you look in between the valve stems.
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So I decided to replace the cylinder head with one from CFM that I bought Monday, will get it next week. It's a take off head with low miles, story being it was bought from Ford who had a large stack of them, perhaps a racing program from last decade. I suspect it's been sitting around for over 15 years.

Before I bought the cylinder head, I was just going to remove the existing head and replace the head gasket to take a peek inside and bought the Ajusa Fibermax and bolts. Then I did the compression test and decided to replace the whole head. So I got the Ajusa head gasket in case I have a slight warp past 0.006 and the surfaces are not good enough for a Mahle MLS head gasket. But now I think that I can clean-up the surfaces with those 3M Rolox Bristle disk and a 3M pad.

I just want to keep the engine reliable, and not cause more damage from neglect and ruin the lower end as well.

The next goal is to just rebuild the lower end, replace the bearings, rods, pistons with better stronger components. Decided to keep the car and drive it longer because it's so cheap to operate, and parts are easy to get for it.

I just went to your website and realized that you sell short blocks, and long blocks as well. And it's looks like you do head work as well. That is the direction I have decided to go. Just need to fund it this year.
 

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I dont like to hit any gasketed surface with anything that spins , it catches on the water and Cylinders and rounds then and I have see it cause blown head gaskets , I use a sander like used in body shops that long about 12 inches and takes a 3.5 to 4 inch wide piece of pre cut sand paper that way you can get a good flat sand on it

If you take something like gas , WD40 etc and set the head on it side and fill the exh / Intake ports just full enough to cover the valves and see if fluids run out the valves will tell you if this is a Valve issue or a ring issue

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'll use your sanding method then, saves me $45.
Then I'll put some ATF in cylinder 2 and let it soak tonight, then test it again.

Decided to get the ARP head studs, and a Mahle MLS head gasket, since I'll be sanding with your method. I should be able to get the RA value within specs. And since my pressure test came out pretty good, I think my surface straightness should be within specs as well for MLS.

I'll check the original head first to see what's up with it, confirm my thoughts on it and look for that valve leak. I hope I don't have a piston issue, not ready to dive that deep into the engine yet. But Ford says I can run the engine if all the cylinder pressures are within 30% of each other.

Thanks Tom, appreciate the help and will consider your services when I go for a complete rebuild.
 
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