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Hey guys, I own a 2017 Focus SE. Unfortunately, I have that small 4.2” screen. If I were to buy the 8” screen and the Sony trim, would it be compatible with my vehicle and would it plug into the factory harness? Thanks in advance!
 

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Hey guys, I own a 2017 Focus SE. Unfortunately, I have that small 4.2” screen. If I were to buy the 8” screen and the Sony trim, would it be compatible with my vehicle and would it plug into the factory harness? Thanks in advance!
I would like to know the same if this is possible. Following.
 

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It is not a simple process of just swapping hardware. The bigger screen also controls climate control which will not work if your car didn't already have dual zone HVAC. You're better off going aftermarket, there are some good plug and play kits but they are expensive. I have the backup camera in that small 4.2" screen, so mines staying stock. I've got sync 3 in my expedition and the novelty of the touchscreen where's off quickly.
 

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Hey guys, I own a 2017 Focus SE. Unfortunately, I have that small 4.2” screen. If I were to buy the 8” screen and the Sony trim, would it be compatible with my vehicle and would it plug into the factory harness? Thanks in advance!
I did a successful sync 1 to sync 3 conversion in my 2017 SE that had the 4" screen. Everything works, including backup camera.

I found the instructions on the focus ST forum: focusst.org/forum/focus-st-guides/150365-replacing-sync-1-sync-3-a.html
Install Guide: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit#gid=2111388596

How it looks: imgur.com/wJgcL5r

Also, you CAN turn the climate controls off in sync 3 with Forscan. You CAN use the backup camera that is already on the car.

Parts You Need:

Here is the $39 harness that I used to rewire for the APIM: search ebay for "METRA AXXESS AX-ADDCAM-FD1 / 2011 UP FORD PLUG N PLAY HARNESS FOR AX-ADDCAM"

I got a Non-NAV Sync 3 APIM/Screen from a 2016 Escape on ebay for $150. It was labeled as "2016 Ford Escape Information Display Screen OEM" It had the screen and APIM together.
Sync 3 APIMS are numbered XXXX-14G370-XXX. The very first # on the part should correspond to the year, so you want G, H, or J. This should also match with the 10th digit in the VIN # to double check.
For the last 3 numbers, they typically follow this: CX, XC, KX, XK = NAV; BX, XB, JX, XJ =Non-NAV. So in the 3rd set of numbers, if the first or second letter is a C or K, it most likely has NAV. If the first or second letter is B or J, it is usually NON-NAV. You want cars that are 2016 or newer.
Screen part # is XXXX-18B955-XX. You will want the same letter year for the first # (G, H, or J). Sync 2 screens are NOT compatible. They have a different connection. The sync 3 screen has a cable that connects to the APIM. It is worth noting that you want a Standard Mount screen instead of a Recessed Mount.

The metal screen brackets were one of the hardest things to source if you don't get your screen from a Focus. There is no part # or way to order them directly. I ended up buying a Sync 2 unit from the junkyard for $70 and using the screen brackets, then reselling the Sync 2 on ebay for a profit to reduce my overall costs.

The black housing that attaches the screen/apim to the radio(ACM). Part # BM51-A045N56-BCW. That is usually about $20

The radio control panel and bezel. You can typically find them together on ebay. I got mine for $80 and it was labeled "Ford C-Max Focus Escape Radio Control Panel OEM LKQ" Bezel Part # F1EB-18835-DE3JA6. The last 6 digits can differ. Sony control panel part # BM5T-18K811-XX.

Fakra GPS unit. You need this whether you get NAV or Non-NAV. They are on amazon for around $11.

You need the single USB port for the arm rest if you want Android Auto/Apple Carplay. I got it on ebay for $37 and it was labeled "OEM Single Port for Ford Sync HU5Z-19A387-A Apple USB CarPlay Interface Module" You can't use the double USB port unit if you want to use the dash USB as well.

Wiring harness for the new USB port which is WRT1239. Around $20. You will also need to run power wires to this harness to power the USB port. The guide shows how to do this. You can also make one yourself with the mouser.com part # AIT2PB-04B-1AK.

Harness for the hazard button, I got mine from the junkyard, along with a second bezel harness to rewire. I found the actual harness on mouser.com, part #2272431-3. But you will need to wire that one up yourself.

New USB cable to run from the dash USB port to the armrest USB port (FR3Z-14D202-B). I ordered it from quirkparts for about $24. This is needed if you want android auto/apple carplay from the front(dash) usb port next to shifter.
You will also need a new mini-USB to mini-USB cable that runs from the Sync 3 unit to the armrest USB port. I got this on amazon for $8, search for "Seismic Audio SA-USB6, 6' 5-Pin to 5-Pin Mini USB Male Cable, USB 2.0 B Type".

Also get a USB OBDII Adapter with HS/MS CANBUS Switch scan tool so you can reprogram in Forscan. I got bbfly-BF32302 for $24 on amazon.

You can use your old radio head unit unless you want to upgrade to HD Radio, which I opted for. I found an HD Radio head unit on ebay for $47. Part #FM5T-19C107-KH. You can tell if it has HD Radio by looking at the sticker on the side of the unit. It will have an HD Radio logo if it is equipped.

That is all I can think of for now. I will get more part #s if needed. You can also build the harnesses yourself if you want. I found the part #s for most of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did a successful sync 1 to sync 3 conversion in my 2017 SE that had the 4" screen. Everything works, including backup camera.

I found the instructions on the focus ST forum: focusst.org/forum/focus-st-guides/150365-replacing-sync-1-sync-3-a.html
Install Guide: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit#gid=2111388596

How it looks: imgur.com/wJgcL5r

Also, you CAN turn the climate controls off in sync 3 with Forscan. You CAN use the backup camera that is already on the car.

Parts You Need:

Here is the $39 harness that I used to rewire for the APIM: search ebay for "METRA AXXESS AX-ADDCAM-FD1 / 2011 UP FORD PLUG N PLAY HARNESS FOR AX-ADDCAM"

I got a Non-NAV Sync 3 APIM/Screen from a 2016 Escape on ebay for $150. It was labeled as "2016 Ford Escape Information Display Screen OEM" It had the screen and APIM together.
Sync 3 APIMS are numbered XXXX-14G370-XXX. The very first # on the part should correspond to the year, so you want G, H, or J. This should also match with the 10th digit in the VIN # to double check.
For the last 3 numbers, they typically follow this: CX, XC, KX, XK = NAV; BX, XB, JX, XJ =Non-NAV. So in the 3rd set of numbers, if the first or second letter is a C or K, it most likely has NAV. If the first or second letter is B or J, it is usually NON-NAV. You want cars that are 2016 or newer.
Screen part # is XXXX-18B955-XX. You will want the same letter year for the first # (G, H, or J). Sync 2 screens are NOT compatible. They have a different connection. The sync 3 screen has a cable that connects to the APIM. It is worth noting that you want a Standard Mount screen instead of a Recessed Mount.

The metal screen brackets were one of the hardest things to source if you don't get your screen from a Focus. There is no part # or way to order them directly. I ended up buying a Sync 2 unit from the junkyard for $70 and using the screen brackets, then reselling the Sync 2 on ebay for a profit to reduce my overall costs.

The black housing that attaches the screen/apim to the radio(ACM). Part # BM51-A045N56-BCW. That is usually about $20

The radio control panel and bezel. You can typically find them together on ebay. I got mine for $80 and it was labeled "Ford C-Max Focus Escape Radio Control Panel OEM LKQ" Bezel Part # F1EB-18835-DE3JA6. The last 6 digits can differ. Sony control panel part # BM5T-18K811-XX.

Fakra GPS unit. You need this whether you get NAV or Non-NAV. They are on amazon for around $11.

You need the single USB port for the arm rest if you want Android Auto/Apple Carplay. I got it on ebay for $37 and it was labeled "OEM Single Port for Ford Sync HU5Z-19A387-A Apple USB CarPlay Interface Module" You can't use the double USB port unit if you want to use the dash USB as well.

Wiring harness for the new USB port which is WRT1239. Around $20. You will also need to run power wires to this harness to power the USB port. The guide shows how to do this. You can also make one yourself with the mouser.com part # AIT2PB-04B-1AK.

Harness for the hazard button, I got mine from the junkyard, along with a second bezel harness to rewire. I found the actual harness on mouser.com, part #2272431-3. But you will need to wire that one up yourself.

New USB cable to run from the dash USB port to the armrest USB port (FR3Z-14D202-B). I ordered it from quirkparts for about $24. This is needed if you want android auto/apple carplay from the front(dash) usb port next to shifter.
You will also need a new mini-USB to mini-USB cable that runs from the Sync 3 unit to the armrest USB port. I got this on amazon for $8, search for "Seismic Audio SA-USB6, 6' 5-Pin to 5-Pin Mini USB Male Cable, USB 2.0 B Type".

Also get a USB OBDII Adapter with HS/MS CANBUS Switch scan tool so you can reprogram in Forscan. I got bbfly-BF32302 for $24 on amazon.

You can use your old radio head unit unless you want to upgrade to HD Radio, which I opted for. I found an HD Radio head unit on ebay for $47. Part #FM5T-19C107-KH. You can tell if it has HD Radio by looking at the sticker on the side of the unit. It will have an HD Radio logo if it is equipped.

That is all I can think of for now. I will get more part #s if needed. You can also build the harnesses yourself if you want. I found the part #s for most of them.

AWESOME! Thank you so much for all the info!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No problem! I think we are doing the same mods to our cars. haha I ordered my rear valance from the UK. Did you end up getting one?
Yes! Pictures will be coming soon. I’m gonna go ahead and put the SAP rear valance and the ST wing while I wait for my front corner lips and air diffuser to be painted. Fortunately a place about 30 minutes from me carried aftermarket rockers, so that’ll be done after I get my front done. After that it’s onto rear disc conversion! [8D]
 

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Hey guys, I own a 2017 Focus SE. Unfortunately, I have that small 4.2” screen. If I were to buy the 8” screen and the Sony trim, would it be compatible with my vehicle and would it plug into the factory harness? Thanks in advance!
I did a successful sync 1 to sync 3 conversion in my 2017 SE that had the 4" screen. Everything works, including backup camera.

I found the instructions on the focus ST forum: focusst.org/forum/focus-st-guides/150365-replacing-sync-1-sync-3-a.html
Install Guide: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit#gid=2111388596

How it looks: imgur.com/wJgcL5r

Also, you CAN turn the climate controls off in sync 3 with Forscan. You CAN use the backup camera that is already on the car.

Parts You Need:

Here is the $39 harness that I used to rewire for the APIM: search ebay for "METRA AXXESS AX-ADDCAM-FD1 / 2011 UP FORD PLUG N PLAY HARNESS FOR AX-ADDCAM"

I got a Non-NAV Sync 3 APIM/Screen from a 2016 Escape on ebay for $150. It was labeled as "2016 Ford Escape Information Display Screen OEM" It had the screen and APIM together.
Sync 3 APIMS are numbered XXXX-14G370-XXX. The very first # on the part should correspond to the year, so you want G, H, or J. This should also match with the 10th digit in the VIN # to double check.
For the last 3 numbers, they typically follow this: CX, XC, KX, XK = NAV; BX, XB, JX, XJ =Non-NAV. So in the 3rd set of numbers, if the first or second letter is a C or K, it most likely has NAV. If the first or second letter is B or J, it is usually NON-NAV. You want cars that are 2016 or newer.
Screen part # is XXXX-18B955-XX. You will want the same letter year for the first # (G, H, or J). Sync 2 screens are NOT compatible. They have a different connection. The sync 3 screen has a cable that connects to the APIM. It is worth noting that you want a Standard Mount screen instead of a Recessed Mount.

The metal screen brackets were one of the hardest things to source if you don't get your screen from a Focus. There is no part # or way to order them directly. I ended up buying a Sync 2 unit from the junkyard for $70 and using the screen brackets, then reselling the Sync 2 on ebay for a profit to reduce my overall costs.

The black housing that attaches the screen/apim to the radio(ACM). Part # BM51-A045N56-BCW. That is usually about $20

The radio control panel and bezel. You can typically find them together on ebay. I got mine for $80 and it was labeled "Ford C-Max Focus Escape Radio Control Panel OEM LKQ" Bezel Part # F1EB-18835-DE3JA6. The last 6 digits can differ. Sony control panel part # BM5T-18K811-XX.

Fakra GPS unit. You need this whether you get NAV or Non-NAV. They are on amazon for around $11.

You need the single USB port for the arm rest if you want Android Auto/Apple Carplay. I got it on ebay for $37 and it was labeled "OEM Single Port for Ford Sync HU5Z-19A387-A Apple USB CarPlay Interface Module" You can't use the double USB port unit if you want to use the dash USB as well.

Wiring harness for the new USB port which is WRT1239. Around $20. You will also need to run power wires to this harness to power the USB port. The guide shows how to do this. You can also make one yourself with the mouser.com part # AIT2PB-04B-1AK.

Harness for the hazard button, I got mine from the junkyard, along with a second bezel harness to rewire. I found the actual harness on mouser.com, part #2272431-3. But you will need to wire that one up yourself.

New USB cable to run from the dash USB port to the armrest USB port (FR3Z-14D202-B). I ordered it from quirkparts for about $24. This is needed if you want android auto/apple carplay from the front(dash) usb port next to shifter.
You will also need a new mini-USB to mini-USB cable that runs from the Sync 3 unit to the armrest USB port. I got this on amazon for $8, search for "Seismic Audio SA-USB6, 6' 5-Pin to 5-Pin Mini USB Male Cable, USB 2.0 B Type".

Also get a USB OBDII Adapter with HS/MS CANBUS Switch scan tool so you can reprogram in Forscan. I got bbfly-BF32302 for $24 on amazon.

You can use your old radio head unit unless you want to upgrade to HD Radio, which I opted for. I found an HD Radio head unit on ebay for $47. Part #FM5T-19C107-KH. You can tell if it has HD Radio by looking at the sticker on the side of the unit. It will have an HD Radio logo if it is equipped.

That is all I can think of for now. I will get more part #s if needed. You can also build the harnesses yourself if you want. I found the part #s for most of them.

Thank you so much for the detail! Between this and the links you provided, it’s helped out a bunch!

I’ve actually got a 2016 SE, would it be possible for you to upload an asbuilt file for your new config? It’d help out a lot as a base file to start tinkering with, if they’re not similar already.
 

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Thank you so much for the detail! Between this and the links you provided, it’s helped out a bunch!

I’ve actually got a 2016 SE, would it be possible for you to upload an asbuilt file for your new config? It’d help out a lot as a base file to start tinkering with, if they’re not similar already.
Hey no problem! My as built for the APIM is:
7D0-01-01 0B28 6006 0072
7D0-01-02 008A 1200 0076
7D0-02-01 5553 0106 40C9
7D0-02-02 8200 0000 005D
7D0-02-03 0005 E1
7D0-03-01 0002 0100 00DE
7D0-04-01 0100 0101 02E1
7D0-04-02 0001 DE
7D0-05-01 17E8 1798 28B3
7D0-05-02 BE9C
7D0-06-01 805E
7D0-07-01 1004 3300 0026
7D0-07-02 0000 1356 0049
7D0-07-03 0004 3067 007C
7D0-07-04 7254

Note that I have ambient lighting enabled in the settings menu for a project, so you will probably have to disable that.
 

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Hey no problem! My as built for the APIM is:
7D0-01-01 0B28 6006 0072
7D0-01-02 008A 1200 0076
7D0-02-01 5553 0106 40C9
7D0-02-02 8200 0000 005D
7D0-02-03 0005 E1
7D0-03-01 0002 0100 00DE
7D0-04-01 0100 0101 02E1
7D0-04-02 0001 DE
7D0-05-01 17E8 1798 28B3
7D0-05-02 BE9C
7D0-06-01 805E
7D0-07-01 1004 3300 0026
7D0-07-02 0000 1356 0049
7D0-07-03 0004 3067 007C
7D0-07-04 7254

Note that I have ambient lighting enabled in the settings menu for a project, so you will probably have to disable that.
Thanking you!
I've not tried to program it yet, but will give it a try tonight/tomorrow. I've wired up most of it apart from about 4 wires, all working, so just need to finish that, reassemble, then program.

For anyone reading this and needing help with some of the terminal P/Ns for the connectors which is not mentioned on the Excel sheet, here's some info that I managed to gather.
For the APIM, I do recommend buying that AXXESS harness and just repinning it using one of the $5 repinning tools - it's much easier to do it on this harness than the APIM connector in the vehicle.
Note that all the below are made by TE - you can get them on Mouser, Digikey, directly from TE etc.
Crimping is a pain in the ass without the OEM TE tool, however that tool costs $200+, so I would just make do with whatever crimpers you have which is what I did - or if you are really worried, just buy the pre-wired harness(es) instead.

Faceplate 8-pin
Complete Harness: WPT-991
OR
Connector: 1456987-5 (not necessary - can reuse existing one, but putting it here just incase)
Terminals: 1924955-3

ACM 26-pin Connector
Terminals: 2035334-1

Hazard 6-pin
Complete Harness: WPT-958
OR
Connector: 2272431-3
Terminals: 1393367-1
 

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I found the instructions on the focus ST forum: focusst.org/forum/focus-st-guides/150365-replacing-sync-1-sync-3-a.html
Install Guide: docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1gcnD6WD13f6KCUbdTTUSo0fGOTXCJtv5HmeemhjlwD8/edit#gid=2111388596
Did anyone get a copy of the information on the google dock before it was deleted? I have all the parts already but I am struggling with the wiring and programming of the sync 3 radio.
 
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