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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,

I recently changed out my bad alternator in my 2005 focus.(what a pain that was) But now, when I turn the key the car does not turn over. I can hear the fuel pump engaging, but nothing. I used to hear a click, but now I do not even hear that anymore. I have charged my battery overnight with a charger, getting good voltage at the battery, and at the alternator. any ideas?
 

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DTC P0606
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Define "good voltage" at the battery. You need to measure it with a multimeter. 12.4V +/- would be a fully charged battery. Even then you really need to perform a proper battery load test since starting an engine is the biggest load you're going to put on it.

What does getting "good voltage" at the alternator mean? If the engine's not runnable you couldn't have measured the alternator's output installed. Was it bench tested? Do you mean you've tested cable continuity?

You disconnected the battery before working on the car's electrical system, right? If yes, re-examine the battery clamps/posts for tightness and cleanliness. If no (tsk, tsk), check your fuses. There is a common troublesome part in the alternator area/engine front side of the Duratec that can short and blow the main fuse.

If you heard the starter relay clicking and it no longer does so, it's likely you simply have a dead battery or one incapable of providing sufficient amperage to start the car. "Bad alternators" can destroy good batteries if you run them long enough in that condition. Swap with a known good battery, if available.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for all the help, Let me go into more detail, I had the battery tested at Oreily's. battery came out good, with the car off I am getting 12.4V at the battery, and also 12.4V at the alternator, with the car off. Re-examined all battery clamps, brushed and cleaned all of the connections. The battery seems good, all electronics work, headlights turn on, full brightness low/high. I heard it could be the starter relay, but in my manual there are multiple places that are labeled "start" or "ignition" relay, under the hood, and under the steering wheel fuse boxes.
 

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DTC P0606
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2005: In the under dash panel fuse box, far upper right corner relay R17 is the starter motor relay.
As a very crude initial test, pull it out, shake it, it should not rattle. Re-seat it making sure connections are clean and tight - or - preferably, swap with a known good relay if you have one; might be able to swap with another one in your own fuse panel for testing.

Before doing that though, ensure your anti-theft light is not flashing during an attempted start.

In the under hood fuse panel, check fuse 8 - 30A (starter solenoid power) for continuity. The underside of your fuse box cover should tell you fuse locations and functions.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Checked R17, no rattle. swapped it with rear window defrost in the same location, still no effect, fuse 8 in the engine compartment had good continuity.
 

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DTC P0606
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Is this car manual or auto? There is a start inhibit switch on both gearbox types.

The red heavy cable that goes from the battery to the alternator is routed "through" the starter. Did you disturb it (twist, bend, move) in any way? Might want to clean the connection at the starter. Disconnect the battery first. Did you disconnect the main engine ground strap during your initial repair?

Didn't answer my question re: the anti-theft light.

When a system worked before you made a "repair" and doesn't afterward, you must first throughly and completely re-check your work. It's more often than not usually something trivial; like a missed electrical connection, a blown fuse or a dislodged cable/wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you for the reply, Yes I have suspected from the beginning perhaps I just didn't hook the alternator back up correctly, or made some other mistake. the battery had been taken out of the vehicle completely when I started the repair.

I do not see the anti-theft light.

Automatic transmission

I will check the starter next.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks again everyone, The car now turns on and runs fine.... I wish I could tell you why.

Last night I was swapping around the Relays and trying to start the car. nothing was happening. so I went to bed, this morning when I came out to try again, the car just started up... I have no idea why, ran it around and it all seems good now. Battery voltage is around 16 when car is running now, is this a little high? I thought it was usually around 14-15?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The alternator looked to be a returned unit as well when I bought it, perhaps there is something wrong with it? I dread having to take that thing back out and getting another one in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
double checked it again this morning, at start up I was getting 15.1 drove it around for a couple minutes, went down to 15.0.
 

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Really not acceptable at much over 15.0, the norm is 14.0 at low load. The range from 14 to 15....................and, new alts are the pits, they have huge failure rates now due to the lifetime warranty thing. Common for some to buy 2 or 3 before issue solved.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
thanks for the input AMC, that's what my buddy said too, that's really unfortunate because it took me three hours of wrenching to get this thing out/in.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hello all, I am resurrecting this thread because I have an update. I will attach some pictures. A couple weeks after changing out my alt, my battery light kept coming on. now remember that I was showing the battery voltage at around 16-17. Well last night, the car died again, suspected alt. Jumped the car with my other vehicle, car runs fine, voltage immediately starts to drop after I take the jumpers off, car eventually dies. took the alt off the vehicle, and I see that the positive connection is melted. terminal melted right into the plastic. I am assuming the alternator did this because it was sending too high voltages? would anything else cause this? is it worth putting another alt in there and testing it out?? really appreciate all the help.


http://imgur.com/a/jCfrv
 

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Old Phart
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Running too high a voltage cooks the battery, bad battery could demand more output, vicious cycle until it all gives up.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
So went to the auto parts store, alternator AND battery test good. Guy at the counter said probably a short caused the burnt wire at the positive terminal on the alt
 
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