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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone used one? Is it worth the extra money?

Here is what I have
FC Pistons 10.2:1
Crower Rods
Crower Stage 2 Cams

What I am getting
FR Head
FC Intake Manifold
FC 70mm Throttle Body
New Injectors (not sure what I will need)
FC Race Header
Under Drive Pulleys
Cam Gears

Future Possibilities
Turbo (low boost B/C of compression)
Nitrous

Would it be good for me to go with the CGI block with the Billet mains or can I use my stock block that has 41,000 miles on it? Thanks in advance for the advice.
 

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I am not that advanced with the mods but I saw listed UDP. Heavily modifying your engine as you are is the UDP recommended/necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well, I am not sure if it is nessisary, but this is a race car and I do not need extra voltage and the less the assesories tax the engine the better, IMO. That is the reason I am going to install them.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The WRC Carbon Graphite Impregnated block that Focus Power has for sale that is like 20% stonger but with billet main can cost a pretty penny. I will be using this car for Solo SCCA events at first and then plan on moving up to Club racing once the car is complete.
 

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First off the CGI block has numerous advantages over a standard block. One is piston oil squirters, which squirt oil to the underside of the pistons to keep them cool. Second is that the block jas billet main caps already machined in, so no need for any extensive engine work on your stock block. These are necessary if you plan to make any real power.

If your planning alot of N/A power, the crower stage 2's won't be aggressive enough, they are ok, but if you want 180+ whp you will need more.

If you plan to go and use FI in the future they are also a bad choice.

How much fore thought have you put into your plan?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, I guess not enough, I wanted to get the ball rolling on this thing and get it mostly done motor wise before spring, then I could start working on getting the car in race trim tubular suspension and all, Should I go with Stage 3 FR cam? The cars I will be racing againt probably in 2005 will be done up intergras, Miatas plus newer cars such as RSX's and newer Civis. There are not many ford people racing anything club except for mustangs. I probably will have an extra $3,000 for the motor that I was planning on starting the other things with, but I will need a good motor to stand a chance, I might as well get the CGI block to start with It will save me the money and time re-building the motor. Has anyone used the FC pistons yet? Do they hold up well under tough condidtions?
 

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The FC pistons I believe are made by probe, they are a good company.

You have to decide if you are going to go N/A or FI. Once you decide you can go from there with mods. I can help you out there.
 

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We at focus-power also have pistons rods and all parts to rebuild we also offer this in a package where you can build it or we can build it for you

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How much would you charge to build a Long block for me? I want to run total of 11 to 1 compression and have the block blueprinted and balanced.
 

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Do you want the larger stainless valve option (225.00)and the crower billet rods (300.00)if so you are looking at 4025.00 ,Then 1750.00 for the block

This will be to the compression of your choosing from 8 to 14 to 1 ,This also comes with your intake ported and no charge to install your cams ,The engine will be complete from oil pan to valvecover and ready to start and run

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So if I go with the better valves and rods and say 11.5 to 1 compression and I would like to go with the FC Intake (is that better than porting the factory one?) and the 70mm Throttle body how much HP do you think the engine wll produce?
 

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I have built some zetecs and if I am reading that right tom is charging $ 5775.00

Thats kinda high.

If I were you I would just pic up a shortblock with JE pistons, crower rods, billet main caps and main and head studs.
 

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Kinda high ? Ok you have built some you tell me what it should cost
Bore/Hone block
Deck block and squair and PSI test
clean black light turn and polish crank
Set up clearances and Assy engine
Billet main caps ,Installed line bored and line honed
WRC/CGI block
forged pistons
crower billet rods (CUT TO FIT THE ZETEC PROPERLY)
rings
rod and main bearings
gasket set
front and real seal
ported and polished that flows what ours flows
Valve job and seals and new buckets
stainless ONE PIECE valves
cam seals
HV oil pump
timing belt
steel oil pump pickup

Tom
 

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1turbofocus said:
Kinda high ? Ok you have built some you tell me what it should cost
Bore/Hone block
Deck block and squair and PSI test
clean black light turn and polish crank
Set up clearances and Assy engine
Billet main caps ,Installed line bored and line honed
WRC/CGI block
forged pistons
crower billet rods (CUT TO FIT THE ZETEC PROPERLY)
rings
rod and main bearings
gasket set
front and real seal
ported and polished that flows what ours flows
Valve job and seals and new buckets
stainless ONE PIECE valves
cam seals
HV oil pump
timing belt
steel oil pump pickup

Tom
No one I know has or needs all of that. On a 500+ hp turbo engine buildup maybe. But then again we know how many of those are around, oh yea, almost none.

Point is, he wasn't even sure he needed a CGI block let alone a $ 5800 short block.

Building a 10 second car, maybe worth it. For what he is asking about, not even close.
 

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Ok so drop the 1100.00 for the block what else does he not need ,,The block was an option he was thinking about and if he is going to turn it hard of boost it later it is a VERY good option to have

So what else does he not need

Tom
 

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So lemme get this straight, minus the CGI block your price is $ 4025.00

Wait tom, you are aware a short block doesn't include the cylinder head etc?

Your list includes that, so the $ 4025.00 is for a long block assembly then?

He asked for a short block, I apologize if I jumped the gun.
 
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