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Discussion Starter #1
Alright so I just bought a new 67mm throttle body from CFM and am experiencing a couple issues.

Issue #1

My gas pedal is now incredibly stiff and basically now has two speeds; idle and fast. There's little to no give what so ever.

Issue #2

After tightening the throttle body, the Check engine light is now on.


apart from the sticky gas pedal it runs fine, and idles correctly. Any ideas? Anyone with similar problems? [?|]
 

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has a screw loose
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After you put it on did you disconnect the -negative battery cable for at least 10 mins ? You'll need to do that so your ECU can reset itself and then after connecting it back up let it idle for about 5 mins and then take it out for about a 20 to 30 minute drive so your ECU can relearn the new parameters.

Then after you do that and you still have a Check engine light start checking your connections .

When I put mine on I had the negative batt post unhooked the whole time and never got a cel.

But my gas pedal is also very stiff and touchy .
 

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omn-nom-nomnomnomnom
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2,293 Posts
Mine is the same way. Having large loops in cable, no tight bends, can help. Also the problem can be lessened with proper tuning (TP for OL table)

Mine still annoys me, though. I might wind up trying the stock unit again sometime.

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
 

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GoKart and Me!!!
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Try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 mins and then after reconnecting, start it and let it idle for about 10 mins and see if that works. Mine is also stiffer than my stock TB, but I like it like that. Not sure how to adjust the spring, though. [dunno]
 

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With a larger TB, more air is being forced into your engine with less throttle. At about half throttle, your letting in more air than your engine can process. So you have basically halved your throttle position for the same amount of power. When I had mine on, it was normal to start off right around 2k rpm. You will just have to get used to that, and adjust the pressure you put on the gas accordingly.

As for the check engine light, make sure the TPS is properly connected, all hoses are tight, the MAF didn't get moved (if you have an aftermarket intake), and the PCV valve is still connected. If any of those sensors are not hooked up, or you have a vacuum leak, it could cause the check engine light to go off. If you disconnect the battery, it should clear the engine light, and you can see if it comes back on after you've checked all those.

And occasionally, especially when it's cold, your pedal will "stick." I think it's just the mechanics of the TB.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Try disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 15 mins and then after reconnecting, start it and let it idle for about 10 mins and see if that works. Mine is also stiffer than my stock TB, but I like it like that. Not sure how to adjust the spring, though. [dunno]
Hows that touchy throttle with the turbo? I feel like I'm learning to drive a standard again with this thing.
 

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I took my stock throttle body off when i put my cai in and the dirt was actually making my throttle body stick, making what is happeneing to you possibly, Try some WD-40 on the springs. and double check the throttle cable. Also, make sure you pluged the sensor back into the throttle body. That would cause the High idle.
 

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GoKart and Me!!!
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Hows that touchy throttle with the turbo? I feel like I'm learning to drive a standard again with this thing.
Works great. Right after I installed it, it did take some getting used to, but after a couple starts and stops, all was well.
 

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w/ my magic bag
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I had one CFM's 67mm TB a few year's ago, ran it for a few day's= awesome on the on ramp's, no good in bumper to bumper traffic, to senitive. I sold it to soon, to look at the linkage, or measure the pivot point's to the OEM one. I believe it would be the pivot point's making the difference. I've a couple other TB's on 5.0's w/ no problem's. William @ CFM said their were going to add a stiffer return spring on them later, at that time. I do miss the response, but I need this to be traffic freindly! That's my take.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm slowly getting more used to it, apart from a couple ugly "Don't mind me I'm learning to drive a standard" bucks, its not too bad. I like the response and it seems to work very well with the setup I have. As for the CEL, I can't get the damn battery off. The connectors on the negative terminal actually seized. I tried spray and brute force to no avail.
 
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