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Discussion Starter #41
I finally pulled the trigger on a ceramic coating. I chose 60ML Cera Ceramic Clear Coat 9H. It touts 3-6 layers before curing and cost about $35. I also bought a second ceramic coating called Mr. Fix 10H Car 30ML Liquid Ceramic Coat Scratch Repair Polishing Agent Sociable at only $4.32. My strategy is simple. I’ll use the Cera for the car paint and put on as many coats of it as I can. Then, I’ll use the Mr. Fix to do the rims. I’m not sure of the quality of the Mr. Fix but it might be good for rims. I’ll also experiment with the Mr. Fix on things inside the house like lamps, stereos, TV and monitor bezels, bathroom sink and toilet and other bric-a-brac. It might save me time and effort on housework.

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Thats What She Said
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Well my ceramic C9 from chemical guys was around $150...

It would be look at comparison videos and reviews and then material information if they list it.
 

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Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Well my ceramic C9 from chemical guys was around $150...

It would be look at comparison videos and reviews and then material information if they list it.
Well, I guess I stayed within my budget and I don't know one from the other even after asking the forum. Time will tell if it last or not.

Check it out: https://www.ebay.com/itm/9H-CERAMIC-CAR-COATING-KIT-NANO-QUARTZ-GLASS-PAINT-PROTECTION-PRO-GRADE-WIPE-ON/323907267206?hash=item4b6a60aa86:m:mEmCKtqG-RQ12jLIvRtnkSw

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
Thursday evening I washed my car, Friday I claybared all of it including the windows and Saturday I wiped entire car with rubbing alcohol then applied three coats on the painted surfaces and head lights and taillights and two coats on the windows. No coating on the black plastic or rubber trim. It looks nice and I hope I won't have to do it again for a couple of years. My arms are sore. I only used half of the two ounces I bought. I'll do the rims later. Maybe I'll take the rims off the car and do the inside. Should I do the disc brakes linings? I wonder if I can apply ceramic to the patio vinyl chairs? There might be lots of things I can apply the ceramic to other than cars?

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w/ my magic bag
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Arms are sore.....thats where a quality machine comes in.....btw there are other types of claying a vehicle. You have your typical bars & then a palm pad, mitts, towels & the best is pads for machines.......Griots has a new awesome machine that works great. http://autogeek.com
 

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Discussion Starter #48 (Edited)
Arms are sore.....thats where a quality machine comes in.....btw there are other types of claying a vehicle. You have your typical bars & then a palm pad, mitts, towels & the best is pads for machines.......Griots has a new awesome machine that works great. http://autogeek.com
Sounds good if I had more than one car and I just don't want more machines in my garage. This is a one shot job and it was a nice day. What saved me was a garden kneeler that I once had for sale on Craigslist. lol

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Love the new ceramic coating SiO2 options. I've used a few brands like Shine Armor and Meguiars. Both seem to do well for my car!
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Update on my ceramic coating. I found a two inch by quarter inch scratch under my door mirror and I tried to fix it myself with small brush-on repair kit but I made it worse so I asked the guy that sold me the car about it and he gave me the name of a paint shop on Florence Ave. in LA. When I got there I ultimately had the door and the hood painted because it wasn't done very well. Remember, it's salvaged. After a week or so I had them buff out the entire car. It turned out that after I applied two new coats of the ceramic the car looks much nicer than with just the clay bar routine. More of a mirror, smooth finish. I'll ceramic the hood and door in two or three months.
I recommend that anyone that wants to put a ceramic coating on a car to have it buffed out first rather that clay bar.

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w/ my magic bag
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Update on my ceramic coating. I found a two inch by quarter inch scratch under my door mirror and I tried to fix it myself with small brush-on repair kit but I made it worse so I asked the guy that sold me the car about it and he gave me the name of a paint shop on Florence Ave. in LA. When I got there I ultimately had the door and the hood painted because it wasn't done very well. Remember, it's salvaged. After a week or so I had them buff out the entire car. It turned out that after I applied two new coats of the ceramic the car looks much nicer than with just the clay bar routine. More of a mirror, smooth finish. I'll ceramic the hood and door in two or three months.
I recommend that anyone that wants to put a ceramic coating on a car to have it buffed out first rather that clay bar.

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Thats the whole idea to begin with....Ceramic coatings/sealant's/waxes is just a protectant. Using compounds/polishes is to remove defects & make the clear coat as smooth as possible so the paint pops. Claying just re
moves above surface defects & doesn't do anything for scratches in the clear coat as you found. You'll also find different protectants add or change the tint/flop of the clear coat. Some even have a yellowing effect depending on the color.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Thats the whole idea to begin with....Ceramic coatings/sealant's/waxes is just a protectant. Using compounds/polishes is to remove defects & make the clear coat as smooth as possible so the paint pops. Claying just re
moves above surface defects & doesn't do anything for scratches in the clear coat as you found. You'll also find different protectants add or change the tint/flop of the clear coat. Some even have a yellowing effect depending on the color.
What else I found out was the repainting of car. For example, the driver's door was replaced with a silver colored door and repainted dark gray (J7) and most of the rear door and front fender was also over-painted but it didn't exactly match the original color and when the hood and door were repainted they also didn't match the other two. I almost sanded the rear door and fender with 2400 grit wet-n-dry to get down to the original paint but I would run the risk of going too far down. I might end up with an entire new paint job. Looking at the driver's side of the car at just the right angle and light it becomes obvious there is a mismatch.

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A swirl finder light would really show you all the defects....Does the whole vehicle need to be repainted? Or just some panels bended in? A good painter can bend in the panels as well as prepping it......
 

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Discussion Starter #56
A swirl finder light would really show you all the defects....Does the whole vehicle need to be repainted? Or just some panels bended in? A good painter can bend in the panels as well as prepping it......
I think just the rear door and the front fender and they look as though they were just victims of over spray and not fully sanded or painted, my guess. That's why I think I could carefully sand them down a bit. I should have had them done with the hood and driver's door. Otherwise, I wouldn't paint the entire car. If the mood strikes me I might try to do it.

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