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First of all I'd like to thank Exsodius for healing my headache with that doorlock problem that i have almost year and a half. Now my door is locking and unlocking like new.

Also I'd like to give a tip, before i did like exsodius said, if you don't have time to remove the lock mechanism from the door and clean and lubricate it, just spray into the side of the two front doors lock mechanism a lot of wd-40 and it will flow underneath the door, shut the door and lock and unlock several times, and it will work. (this is just temporally until you have the time to take out the mechanism from the door and clean it good)

I'm new to this site so cheers to everyone and this thread made me to register myself.
 

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Hello exodius! when I lock from driver door with key all doors works properly but when i lock from passenger door only the passenger door response to open/close and the other doors not response.

You know why?
 

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Thanks Exsodius!

I had same problem about 2 years and now I saved lot of money and time to fix it, thanks to your solution.

For others who want to do this, first time it takes about 3 hours to do this fix.
 

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Thanks Exsodius!
I had the same problem and was about to change the motor and found this fix. Worked for me and saved me a lot of hassle.
Thanks again.
 

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I've had no central locking for the past 2 years so I tried spraying WD40 through the hole and it works now. The only issue is that when opening, only the drivers or passengers door will open, I was hoping all doors would open? It's so long since it worked that I've forgotten. I'm using keyed entry as it's the base model.
 

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Wait till you people see what WD40 turns into once it has cooked all the VOC out of it, or very sticky bubblegum...................good way to make the latch even worse one year out.

There are TWO limit switches inside the latch and two other compartments that are virtually impossible to squirt lubricant into. Even using a whole can of WD40. There is an electric motor that if you get WD40 into, will pretty much be scrap once the lube dries out to get very sticky. Luckily they seal that one up pretty much water tight.
 

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Some like the stuff, I've had good luck with it over the years. (WD40)

Driver's door got the treatment about 4 yrs.ago when the handle got loose (pull out far loosely & barely opened the door). Took pulling the inner panel for access, still working fine.
 

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I almost wrecked a $600 set of connecting rods once by spraying them liberally, the stuff reduced down to a dried bubblegum type goo that no solvent on earth would touch. Finally had to laboriously hand rub it off, it took forever.

Pop as well got the bright idea on one of the nine second drag cars to spray a small shot of WD in plug holes every time plugs were pulled. That engine reduced the stuff down to scar up the cylinder walls weirdly, we stopped doing it and never again had the issue with same type and part engine builds. I like using it for certain things but nothing for long periods of time. I've had it stick up lock tumblers before too but reshooting more in seems to re-break it back down to go back to working again.
 

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Problem solved!

My central lock has worked fine for a month now. Even when its raining or are cold.

What i found after cleaning the lock mechanism was that it has a microswitch like in your PC mouse buttoms. In picture you see the black switch with the red dot on it. This red dot is a water proof rubber seal for the switch pin. This red seal made the switch pin hang when it was cold. In my case it was full of grease. I measured the switch with a multimeter. When pin is pushed inside the doors are locked, when the pin is out the doors are open. So what happend was that when unlocking the car the switch stayed closed. And the other doors sent a negative signal that was telling the driverdoor that they were unlocked. Then you had two negative signals making a short circuit. And then all doors stopped working. So i believe many focuses have this problem. And have probaly changed the whole unit with a new one. But that is expensive.....

Tip: Clean and spray microswitch with WD-40 if you have this problem.
Is this photo taken after removing the inside panel? I still trying to figure out where this is. I too have exactly the same problem on my Ford Focus.
 

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Hi I have a focus 2001 zetec my central locking is playing up it double locks and means it is unlocked unless I put key in door and sometimes when it does lock it only looks 3 doors instead of all of them has any one had this or know if it is.a easy fix
 

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Look at the latch that does not work when you do that, the one most likely causing all the trouble. Fix it and problem often fixed. New latch assembly unless you figure out how to lube it, the latches cannot be taken apart without drilling rivets out and hard to get lube fully inside them. There are like two compartments inside that are sealed off from the rest.
 

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Can you read?

Or...............'hard to get lube fully inside them.'

Also, WD40 turns into like bubblegum when it dries out and sticks things up even worse when it does, they don't tell you that on the can of course..................the parts you spray with WD are not the errant ones that lie deeper inside, if you flood it you MIGHT get to them but you might not. And once you've put it in there, there is no getting it back out when it starts gumming the works up even worse.

The only sure cure is taking the latch completely apart and thoroughly greasing all the parts inside. To do that you will be bending tabs and drilling out rivets, BTDT.
 

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Now my Focus will make a clicking sound from the central locking but the locks don't move at all. Any hints?

Also there are multiple split wires in the drivers side door (under the rubber wrapping between the door and the frame) could this be part of the problem?

And can I unplug the wires from the frame without damaging them?

(sorry for sounding like a noob, I just don't want to permanently screw up my doors ;) )
 

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You didn't supply the model year, so our answers are just guesses.

On the MkI I have, the driver's door harness will disconnect at the door frame (twist release plug connectors).

Wiring damage from flexing to the door harness can certainly be a cause for your problem.
 

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Apologies, yes it's the MkI, I've tried replacing the fuse and unplugging the siemens box but to no avail.

I managed to use some electrical tape to isolate each wire and still no success so I would assume that it's a problem with the lock itself?
 

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Can this switch be accessed while the assembly is still fitted? I have replaced one lock already because I thought it was faulty but the problem has come back again and I cannot work out which door is now causing the problems.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #60
Can this switch be accessed while the assembly is still fitted? I have replaced one lock already because I thought it was faulty but the problem has come back again and I cannot work out which door is now causing the problems.

Thanks.

It's not the backdoors. So it has to be driver or passenger in front.

Spraying with wd40 works but it will only work for 3 months.

I finally fixed this for good. I took out both front door latches. And i removed the rubber cap on the micro switch with an exacto knife. This rubber cap becomes stiff in cold temperatures and when its old. And when the micro switch pin is in the inner position the rubber cap won't let it out again.

Think of a whoman's pessary formed like a dome this is what the rubber cap looks like. And if you press in the middle of the pessary you make a hole that won't pop out again by itself. And behind the hole is the micro switch pin trying to get out but now the pessary wont let it because of the hole. And when this pin can't get out it tells the other doors i'm still unlocked so you can't lock either.

This car is now sold but this fix have worked in 3 years so far.
 
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