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Discussion Starter #41
You can remove the cable from the upper door handle to give yourself some slack. I don't believe the bottom part of the cable is accessible with the latch installed. Once you get the door open remove the offending latch assembly immediately. Best to replace as a unit. Handle reinforcement, latch, and inner handle all go in together. The plastic clip that holds the activator rod is very brittle and not available separately. You can do it.
Cheers mate, and thanks for the vote of confidence ;) lol

Now I know what i need to be pulling/pushing it does make it easier.

I'll keep you posted.
 

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You can remove the cable from the upper door handle to give yourself some slack. I don't believe the bottom part of the cable is accessible with the latch installed. Once you get the door open remove the offending latch assembly immediately. Best to replace as a unit. Handle reinforcement, latch, and inner handle all go in together. The plastic clip that holds the activator rod is very brittle and not available separately. You can do it.
Cheers mate, and thanks for the vote of confidence ? lol

Now I know what i need to be pulling/pushing it does make it easier.

I'll keep you posted.
You're welcome. That is what this forum is for.
 

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Post #40 is correct in all ways. A new cable fixes nothing, the latch can seize up even on new cars I believe if you simply make the mistake of locking and unlocking at the same time, the linkage and cable combined as a working assembly likely has no prevention method to avoid it.

I've fixed it to go back to working right 3X by simply getting the upper end of lock cable free of the door lock handle and working the cable back INTO the cable housing to obviously push back down on the other end, at some point after all the working it comes back loose and everything is back to working right. While inside the latch itself I never studied what had to happen to make the other half of the seizure thing happen but I suspect one of the swinging links twists sideways in play to then lock up on its' shaft, the upper cable locking on side of the latch may promote that.

The kids are all long gone, once I was aware of what I was doing to make the problem happen I made sure I never palmed or leaned into the lock tab while unlocking the door to get out and the problem is gone doing that, no parts changed at all. It's a 737 Max 8 issue.........cockpit problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
So I got the door open. woohoo!!

Pushing the inner cable back into the lock wasn't working in this instance. Trust me I tried about 50 times. It just wouldn't budge the stuck latch.

In the end i resorted to levering a screwdriver from the tab that the white circular holder for the barrel end of cable rests on and the wheel that holds the spring for the locking mechanism.
I slight bit of force released it and the door opened.

Hopefully this will help someone else in this situation.

On that note what I had to do to get the door trim off so I had access to the latch was:
• remove rear seat back
• remove rear interior side/door card (mine is a 3dr). this allowed access to the two screws that are by the door shut.
• remove passenger seat
• remove kick panel by lower front of door, this allowed access to the lower screw for door panel trim
• remove interior black panel where door mirror is

Removing all those bits allowed access to all but one screw, which is hidden up by where the dashboard curves round to meet the door.
But you can pull the door trim off and sacrifice this tab, mine came out of the door luckily, intact. I just need to remove the screw and put the black housing that sits in the door where the screw will screw back in.
Make sure you unclip the electric plug for the windows and remove the window button aswell.
When you then lift the door panel up to release it from the top clips, be careful when pulling it out with the screw attached as it can catch the wires for the remote central locking and wing mirror.
I managed to get my door panel off ok which allowed me access to the latch.
 

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So I got the door open. woohoo!!

Pushing the inner cable back into the lock wasn't working in this instance. Trust me I tried about 50 times. It just wouldn't budge the stuck latch.

In the end i resorted to levering a screwdriver from the tab that the white circular holder for the barrel end of cable rests on and the wheel that holds the spring for the locking mechanism.
I slight bit of force released it and the door opened.

Hopefully this will help someone else in this situation.

On that note what I had to do to get the door trim off so I had access to the latch was:
• remove rear seat back
• remove rear interior side/door card (mine is a 3dr). this allowed access to the two screws that are by the door shut.
• remove passenger seat
• remove kick panel by lower front of door, this allowed access to the lower screw for door panel trim
• remove interior black panel where door mirror is

Removing all those bits allowed access to all but one screw, which is hidden up by where the dashboard curves round to meet the door.
But you can pull the door trim off and sacrifice this tab, mine came out of the door luckily, intact. I just need to remove the screw and put the black housing that sits in the door where the screw will screw back in.
Make sure you unclip the electric plug for the windows and remove the window button aswell.
When you then lift the door panel up to release it from the top clips, be careful when pulling it out with the screw attached as it can catch the wires for the remote central locking and wing mirror.
I managed to get my door panel off ok which allowed me access to the latch.
Sweet! Glad you were successful. I knew you could do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
It felt good when i felt and heard the click! lol lol

Thanks again for all your input, along with amc49.

I thought i would write up in detail what I had to do, especially with removing the door card while the door is shut, as this may help someone else.

I've just got to put it all back together again and take a trip to my local ST breaker to pick up a complete unit.

I'm going to pull this one a part as I am interested as to what is inside. As the remote central locking is not working on it.
 

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So I got the door open. woohoo!!

Pushing the inner cable back into the lock wasn't working in this instance. Trust me I tried about 50 times. It just wouldn't budge the stuck latch.

In the end i resorted to levering a screwdriver from the tab that the white circular holder for the barrel end of cable rests on and the wheel that holds the spring for the locking mechanism.
I slight bit of force released it and the door opened.

Hopefully this will help someone else in this situation.

On that note what I had to do to get the door trim off so I had access to the latch was:
• remove rear seat back
• remove rear interior side/door card (mine is a 3dr). this allowed access to the two screws that are by the door shut.
• remove passenger seat
• remove kick panel by lower front of door, this allowed access to the lower screw for door panel trim
• remove interior black panel where door mirror is

Removing all those bits allowed access to all but one screw, which is hidden up by where the dashboard curves round to meet the door.
But you can pull the door trim off and sacrifice this tab, mine came out of the door luckily, intact. I just need to remove the screw and put the black housing that sits in the door where the screw will screw back in.
Make sure you unclip the electric plug for the windows and remove the window button aswell.
When you then lift the door panel up to release it from the top clips, be careful when pulling it out with the screw attached as it can catch the wires for the remote central locking and wing mirror.
I managed to get my door panel off ok which allowed me access to the latch.
[thumb]
Paul
 

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Two thumbs up there...........

https://imgur.com/7HTZu5e

The rivet circled in red is the one I grind off to get the part open IIRC, plus all the other snaps and a few screws and a couple of bend tabs too. No need to remove any rivets on the face that meets door.
 

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hello focus family, my 2002 focus zx5 has been working well until few months back when i noticed that the remote fob could no longer open the rear latch, and the switch near the steering wheel too also stopped working, i can only open the rear with my ignition key. the general light that flashes when you central lock using the remote fob has also stopped flashing. now i just hear the central lock clicks with no light flashes. please help a brother here guys.
 

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hello focus family, my 2002 focus zx5 has been working well until few months back when i noticed that the remote fob could no longer open the rear latch, and the switch near the steering wheel too also stopped working, i can only open the rear with my ignition key. the general light that flashes when you central lock using the remote fob has also stopped flashing. now i just hear the central lock clicks with no light flashes. please help a brother here guys.
I would start a new thread..but usually the hatch wiring goes bad inside the rubber boot that goes from the roof to the top of the hatch.
 

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You can try spraying some white lithium grease up in the latch, that may help. I'd work it a few times.

As said the harnesses tend to break a lot right around the flex point going into the trunklid or tailgate.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Two thumbs up there...........

https://imgur.com/7HTZu5e

The rivet circled in red is the one I grind off to get the part open IIRC, plus all the other snaps and a few screws and a couple of bend tabs too. No need to remove any rivets on the face that meets door.
I took mine apart and never had to remove the rivet or that part of the latch.

The three torx screws on on the other part is where my issue was.
There are two large tabs/clips at the side and three hidden tabs against the side where the rivet is (where the 11 little white circle parts are.

Once that pops open you get to the electrical motor and microswitch etc.

The issue with mine was that the motor had gone out of sync with the metal latch and micro switch. So no current was running to it and it was seized from lack of electric power.

With my key fob i locked the doors (not dead locked) and then I turned the large wheel and watched my lock button (on interior handle) go to lock position. That way the remote fob, door handle and lock was all synced together in the locked position. I then unlocked the central locking with remote fob and the motor whirred into life.

I then locked and unlocked the central locking with remote fob and it all worked and I also did it with the interior handle button, and it all worked.

I have to add that this was all done with the passenger door open and the latch hanging loose outside the door (not installed) but plugged into the wiring loom.

You could instantly tell the difference and that it was back working correctly as the locking mechanism was much more solid sounding and clicking into lock and unlock positions with much more power.

I tested it for about half an hour, locking, unlocking and deadlocking with the fob and door handles and it was all working as it should.

I have now installed it into the car and it still works perfectly.

The ultimate issue and cause of springiness of door lock button on interior handle is because the electrical mechanism and the metal mechanism is out of sync and fighting against each other.

Once back in sync they work in perfect harmony.

So as mentioned before by amc49 the process of locking and opening the door handle at the same time is what seems to knock them both out of sync as the unit is getting an electrical message to lock and a manual message to unlock.

So be careful when opening your door from inside. As it isn't down to the latch but indeed a cockpit error as said by amc49.
 

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Entirely possible, I was taking note that the type picced there was NOT the exact same type used on the earlier cars (mine are '00--'02), and the red circled rivet was in a different position (way more to the left) on the ones I did. Likely a different design but using some of the same design elements. Yours had 3 screws, and IIRC mine only used 2 as well. The raised back molding contours seem to indicate a different motor used too, mine was not nearly so convoluted there.

How many microswitches used there? Mine used 2 IIRC.

'...and the motor whirred into life.'

I agree, most of the electrical switch issues on these is the timing to limit switches and such that once getting lost or parts run dry of grease to make parts drag to not go through full motion to contact the limits then make the parts act up. I've had both the lock buttons quit working outright or machine-gunning on and off repeatedly in rapid fashion and simply loosening up parts and making sure they can time to the limit switches has themback to working fien for years.

Ford made them as throwaway parts but often they only take a bit of work to make back right again. Your design even better as you don't have to drill and tap for a screw after grinding the rivet off like I did.

At the prices they want for them it could be a productive afternoon going through one, I thought so.
 
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