Good luck sir.6 hours!! Damn.
Saying that I have been on mine for about that long.
Mine has been used for short journeys only and is really good condition. It only has 36k miles on the clock. The only issues are the door latch and the air con compressor has seized. ?
I just sprayed loads of Plus Gas all over the latch and in the groove/gap that it sits. Just about to have my dinner then back on it again in about half an hour.
It was overheated. They put a new head on it but couldn't get it running. 2 spark plugs were cracked. 3 broken vacuum lines. The intake was melted as well but I didn't find that out until I had driven it 7 or 800 miles.
Maybe so. Mine unlatched after a good soaking with pb blaster.Now that is a serious overheat!
You guys are working in the dark, I have pulled the latches apart and there is at least one firmly waterproof section walled in that includes the planetary transmission that works plastic swing rockers to hit the limit switches. 3 sections inside and almost impossible to get lube to most of it, you can spray until the end of the earth and not get at some of it as the lube must also traverse straight UP in places, no sitting to soak in will fix that. The 100% sealed section is also located as the middle of the 3 to prevent spray getting to the third high section. Several links that work to drop by gravity and dry grease makes sure they will never work correctly, there are maybe 50 parts inside each latch. A Mabuchi slot car type motor works the planetary.
The inside cable that you work was not going to be easy, I said so. I use mini visegrips to lock hard on and work the inner loose, if you are not clamping that hard to both the inside cable and outside housing you can forget getting it loose. Took me minutes to free it up and door was back to working normal when done. You must grip the outer cable housing hard enough you risk collapsing it to seize up the inner and cable is then junk. Meaning use force but be delicate there, I know, it sucks.
The outside facing tab that the downlink from outer door handle goes to simply flops loose when the latch is locked up, the problem being elsewhere deactivates it, you won't get it open from that end. The problem is at the big double rocker that the inside door unlock tab cable goes to, it attaches to a swing link inside latch that is gravity oriented and sticking it locks the latch up since it is in between any operating location.
Pull a latch apart and all the monkey mortion going on in there clearly shows luck has nothing to do with any of it, you have to get the right part or junk it.
Not trying to dissuade anybody from efforts but wasted efforts I despise most of all. Nothing on the doer, it's just that human waste is so...........wasteful. Why I hang around this site so much.
Work a properly working lock tab on another door and take note of the way it positively clicks or detents at lock or unlock. Then go to the problem one and work it same way. If the messed up one is springy feeling and seems to move in but springs back out on its' own the inner cable IS the issue, the door is in that lock/unlock seizure thing. That springiness issue is clear proof the cable is seized, it springs back since it could not move when you moved the tab. Proper working ones will not be springy like that.
Lol. It's all good. You're knowledge of the latching system is beyond mine as I have never pulled one apart. Living in the south, this failure, is fairly rare. I'm just sharing what worked for me. I didn't mean to sound butthurt.And absolutely nothing against what you did, it's just that there may be some frustration with the results and helpful to know why.
Why we exchange ideas all day long, at least I hope it is. I'm certainly no smarter than anybody else here is and y'all make me think.........a LOT. All trying to cut back on the work and make it more reliable.
I love your postings and keep up the good work. If I sounded overbearing then I'M the one full of crap there.
You can remove the cable from the upper door handle to give yourself some slack. I don't believe the bottom part of the cable is accessible with the latch installed. Once you get the door open remove the offending latch assembly immediately. Best to replace as a unit. Handle reinforcement, latch, and inner handle all go in together. The plastic clip that holds the activator rod is very brittle and not available separately. You can do it.Thanks for the 3 posts mate, That makes perfect sense now.
Would putting a new cable on fix the issue then?
Or if I take the cable off could I unlock it by hand by somehow pushing the fulcrum/rocker arm?
Thanks for your time and input, appreciate it.