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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

Just bought another ST170, 2005, imperial blue, 3dr and the central locking isnt working properly.

Ive checked other threads but can't find anything exactly the same but have tried the 6 button switch press (by door latch) and hazards dont light up. Also tried removing all plugs from the ECU in the RH side footwell to do reset but that hasnt worked either.

The issues is that my passenger door (LH side, I am in UK) doesnt lock at all with remote fob or with key in driver's door. Also remote fob doesnt always activate the driver's lock, but it does put on interior light as if locks have been opened. It locks ok and deadlocks with the remote fob but doesnt open everytime (passenger one just stays as is, so i have to lock manually inside the car).

Any ideas what it could be before I start pulling door trim off and checking electrics.

thanks in advance for any input.

Jim
 

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Jim,
The electronic unit that controls the locks is not the ECU but the GEM (General Electronics Module). The GEM is the unit with the 6 color coded connectors and controls central locking, remote lock/unlock, intermittent wipers, etc. The ECU (PCM) controls the engine/trans and PATS and has nothing to do with the body.

Your problem could be with individual door locks or in the GEM.

Good luck
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hi Paul


thanks for reply, my apologies I meant the GEM.

Last night I tried the 4 key turn in the ignition and press the lock and unlock buttons. This seems to have fixed the inconsistency with unlocking the door with the key fob. It now opens and locks the drivers door everytime. BUT it has jammed the passenger door in the locked position and I now cant open it from inside or outside. It is permanently locked.

I had this issue when I bought the car but it managed to free itself, but meant that it couldnt be locked.

So it seems i am stuck in one of two positions, passenger stays unlocked or stays locked. It isnt working with the central locking.

I have taken the interior door handle off the cable but the cable wont move in or out enough to activate anything. It seems if the latch is well and truly stuck.

Any tips on removing the interior door panel when the door is closed??? :(
 

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Jim,
Thats a tough one. Have you tried having a helper push in on the door from the outside while you pull on the release cable from the inside?

Paul
 

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The individual latches have internal limit switches that give utter fits when the grease in latch dries up to let the latch linkages work only partway. Only partway then lets this or that limit switch not hit whichever way it is supposed to and messes things up. If you could easily relube the latch inside it will often go back to working correctly when the linkages then begin to work full distances due to being easy to move again. BTDT, but you can't simply spray lube there as the latches are commonly separately compartmented inside meaning they have to come apart, and you destroy them doing that.

I have destroyed a few to get them back working, you have to drill rivets out and then come up with a way to put the assembly back together and firmly holding all parts in place.

One other issue they have may well be done here, the latches when messing with them will also seize up to be unuseable if they ever get locked and unlocked at the same time, it locks the linkage up and then you are stuck with a 100% non-functioning latch.

To get out of that I do NOT remove the door panel at all, only the inside door handle escutcheon to free the handle up to flop around hanging by the cable, you then have to work the cable back INTO NOT OUT of the cable housing to free the internal seizure back up, it can take a few minutes to get there. Done correctly, the offending latch will come back loose and then you are back to where you were before the latch 100% quit doing anything.

The last issue can show up if you accidentally palm the locking tab to on while unlocking the door by pulling on the handle, a common problem with that latch, I've fixed mine more than once. Steer away from locking/unlocking at the same time and problem is gone, but if you unlock doors with a child in back and they are pressing lock at the same time, well, it's time to kill the child.

Just kidding, you kill the adult there instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hi amc49,

i have managed to get the door panel off and have liberally sprayed lube all over the latch.

the cable wont push in to release. If only it was that easy hey.

I noticed that the wiring plug into the latch was soaking wet, so have dried it off with a rag. Will take it off and spray it with contact cleaner.

I did see a post somewhere that showed the tiny latch that gets gummed up but for the life of me cant find it at the moment. Im hoping that cleaning and greasing that will resolve it.
 

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Hi amc49,

i have managed to get the door panel off and have liberally sprayed lube all over the latch.

the cable wont push in to release. If only it was that easy hey.

I noticed that the wiring plug into the latch was soaking wet, so have dried it off with a rag. Will take it off and spray it with contact cleaner.

I did see a post somewhere that showed the tiny latch that gets gummed up but for the life of me cant find it at the moment. Im hoping that cleaning and greasing that will resolve it.
Since you will be replacing it anyways...pull the plastic cover off and you will be able to pull the lever up..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Since you will be replacing it anyways...pull the plastic cover off and you will be able to pull the lever up..
Hi pbfoot, thanks for your reply.

Which plastic cover? the large one with the two torx screws on top of the latch?
 

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Since you will be replacing it anyways...pull the plastic cover off and you will be able to pull the lever up..
Hi pbfoot, thanks for your reply.

Which plastic cover? the large one with the two torx screws on top of the latch?
The plastic anti theft cover that goes from top to bottom. Once you get the cover off you can spritz the latch assembly and lift the lever to open the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
The plastic anti theft cover that goes from top to bottom. Once you get the cover off you can spritz the latch assembly and lift the lever to open the door.
I have undone and twisted the anti theft cover, but the only moving part i can see is the rod to the outside handle, which moves freely but doesnt undo the door.

I have sprayed it with loads of WD40 round the back where the latch is bolted to the door by the striker so hoping it will loosen it.

Is that the correct part to be lifting?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So it seems after getting in to the inner door and removing the anti theft cover the lock is still locked. I cant see a way to physically unlock it so the outside handle or the inner cable with open the latch.

Anybody know how to unlock the unit or am I going to have to break it apart insitu so I can get to the latch to open door.
 

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So it seems after getting in to the inner door and removing the anti theft cover the lock is still locked. I cant see a way to physically unlock it so the outside handle or the inner cable with open the latch.

Anybody know how to unlock the unit or am I going to have to break it apart insitu so I can get to the latch to open door.
Be calm. Remove the outside door handle. Remove the door handle reinforcement. You see the rod that goes from the handle down to the latch? That is the lock/unlock manual rod. You should be able to move it up and down. I presume you have the battery disconnected or the plug at the latch disconnected at the switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Hi pbfoot

i havent removed the reinforcement or outside handle yet, but the battery is disconnected. I cant seem to get the wiring plug off of the latch.

The rod that goes down from outside handle moves freely and makes a noise but doesnt unlock the latch.

There is only one rod and one moveable part on the latch. Looking online some seem to have two rods, but mine doesnt.
 

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Hi pbfoot

i havent removed the reinforcement or outside handle yet, but the battery is disconnected. I cant seem to get the wiring plug off of the latch.

The rod that goes down from outside handle moves freely and makes a noise but doesnt unlock the latch.

There is only one rod and one moveable part on the latch. Looking online some seem to have two rods, but mine doesnt.
The latch is seized. You need to liberally spray pb blaster in there and take a break. Then come back and manually move the lever not the rod to work it loose. I just went through this on my SVT. It is easier if you disconnect the outside handle and door reinforcement. That way the rod is not putting any pressure on the lever. You can also open hand pound on the inside door while you activate the lever.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Just googled it. I have Plus Gas which is a penetrating oil,. Should I be spraying it in where the lever is?
 

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My fiasco. I went to the breakers and pulled a latch assembly with the pull cable. Much easier to install.
 

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