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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm a newb.

I have done a search and have search some more. I don't have the money for a steeda just yet, but that will change in the next 2-3 weeks.

Anywho, I brought a brand new 06 ST Ford Focus and decided to make this my daily runner. I have already put 2000 miles on her and I've only had her for about 2 weeks. If you haven't guessed it, I'm traveling girl. I'm a retail sales merchandiser and I service BJ's, PathMark's (supermarkets), Wal-Mart's and many other super stores. My job is 100% traveling.

Anyway, I brought a cheap intake from PepBoys and decided to create my own little intake until I can get the money for a cat-back and steeda. I installed the intake and everything went well. But now the CEL comes on.

Does this happen with every intake? Is it O.K. to to leave it the way it is until I get the Steeda? I'm taking that the problem is the MAF because I plugged the MAF up disconnected the negative battery cable for 20 min and started the car. It ran rough and cut off on me. I had to keep starting the car 5 times before it would not cut off. But, once I took it for a test drive, the kick and bucked like a bull. I drove the car for 5 miles like that. Finally I pull over to the side of the road, and unplugged the MAF. Wow, did she scream then. No more kicking and bucking. Now the CEL is back on and I'm worried that this will damage my car.

Please help ASAP; I have to go to work on Monday and I don't wont to continue to drive around if I'm causing damage.

STFocigirl
 

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Please, do you your car a favor and remove the pep boys intake as it will make your car run like crap no matter what.

The MAF is incredibly important in making sure the car runs right, without it plugged in the car will run in sort of limp mode. This will result in an incorrect air to fuel ratio and will harm the car eventually.

Purchase an intake that makes proper use of the stock maf tube: MarcyMotorsport and Focus Sport are ones I reccomend.

Your car will run better, make more power, and be healthy.
 

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^^ agreed, if you dont have the money you can do what many seem to be doing. thats removing all the junk that comes before the maf tube, and then place a filter on the end of the maf. some say it results in 3hp gain but there are no dynos to prove it. either do that, or just stay stock until you get your real intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok...I have put back the MAP and I still have a CEL and the car still bucks and loses power when I step on it. Here are some pictures.


This picture is how I had to drive home because the bucking was so bad and the lose of power was so bad that I had to take off the Filter to drive the car home slowly with flashers on.


This is what it looks like with the filter on.



I'm lost and need help fast...what am I missing?
 

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but there are things to check. the maf is in the right way, do you have a clean maf, is there are leaks after the maf that are letting unmetered air in. theres more and im sure more people will jump in.

if all this is ok then disconnect the bat for 20 min. then try again.
 

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that looks like the maf tube is backwards
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The MAF tube is backwards due to my homemade cutting which resulted in one end being bigger than the other end.

I disconnected the battery again and let it set for 20 min. Took it for a test drive and still the CEL came on and it still bucked and the car would not pick up speed. In order to pick up speed, I would have to take my foot off the gas, push in the clutch, and rev the engine, shift into higher gear and then back on the gas to pick up speed.

I took it to autozone to read the code and it shows P0102. Now I'm starting to regret my mod and becoming more reluctant on doing any future mods until this car has well over 100k miles on it.

I'll have to take it back to the dealer now and have them put the car back the way it was which I'm sure I voided the warranty for this car.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I fixed the problem. I turned the MAF tube the other way and no more bucking and no more lose of power.[thumb] Thanks aero_student, you saved me so much money.
 

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Looks like a half decent setup. I've tried a few myself, all that lead me to giving up, but seeing that success... I might have to try a similar setup.

Here's a shot of my custom intake: 3" abs, cut the hole with a drill press, smoothed it out (very smooth end result) and tapped the threads for the stock screws. No air leaks and it runs, ok. But... not having the stock dia around the MAF certainly made it not worthwhile in the end... your setup should work nicely, just that looking at the pipe, it seemed impossible to do. You didn't actually cut the ends did you?

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yeah, I cut the end that connects to the bigger filter box.

Mines looks just like yours w/out the filter on. I'm still testing right now. But so far, I've eliminated the bucking and the rough rpms with lose of power. I'll test it some more tomorrow. I'm sleepy now and just want to go to bed.
 

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And that's what I want to eliminate having to do. If I ever want to revert back to stock, I wanna make sure the stock piping all fits back together.
 

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Your best bet is going to be to get a new maf housing since you cut yours up, check the for sale forums here and at focaljet. If that doesn't turn up anything they're fairly cheap from the dealer and get one of the intakes I mentioned earlier, they are a large improvement from what you're currently running.
 

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should have just put a filter after the MAF tube. what alot of people do here when you dont have the cash. its like $30.
 

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yeah it being backwards is what did that..i pointed it out! lol.

with the one end being bigger, what i did was take all the part between where you put the maf tube, and the thottle body(the big tube that looks like the end of those straws that bend..) and bought a coupler, and connected the smaller end of the maf tube, to the throttle body with the coupler. i also cut my maf tube in half.

 

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What you guys are doing with having the filter so close to the maf is not good. It makes the air extremely turbulent and next to impossible for the maf to get an accurate reading of the amount of air.

Doing your own work is fine, but not when you have no clue (truly) what the hell you are doing. You may think you have experience modifying cars or making things go fast, but there is a right way and a wrong way. All too often people do it the wrong way.
 

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i've had this short ram on for 4000 miles, and the cai i had on for at least 10000, no cel's, no bogging, anything
 

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Discussion Starter #17
aero_student said:
What you guys are doing with having the filter so close to the maf is not good. It makes the air extremely turbulent and next to impossible for the maf to get an accurate reading of the amount of air.

Doing your own work is fine, but not when you have no clue (truly) what the hell you are doing. You may think you have experience modifying cars or making things go fast, but there is a right way and a wrong way. All too often people do it the wrong way.
I agree with you to a certain extent. Nevertheless, If you take a look at the Steeda short ram intake, there is no difference in what we are trying/doing. The MAF tube sits right on the trottle body and connects directly into a filter. We have the same set up with the exception of using the factory MAF tubing instead of the tubing that Steeda uses.

I'm not saying that our setup is superior to Steeda or the other reputable companies out there because I'm sure that they have the money to perfect the idea. Yet, I'm sure the idea most likely originated from this very concept. If I had the money, I would go to a machinist and could very well have designed the tube like steeda for less the price of paying for the equipment with Steeda name attached. This is why there are so many companies making intakes with simular designs each claiming to put out more horsepower than the other.

Now, as far as experience modifying cars to go fast, I'm not ignorant or too new in this department to not fully understand reduced intake piping can also improve air flow. My options are CAI or short ram. I choose short ram rather than CAI. My goal for this car is to have a functional hood scoop right where the filter sits giving my car a more cool air then having a CAI running into the wheel well.

So I understand what your saying. Not all of us are newb's to modifiying cars that we don't fully understand what we are doing. I'm just mechanically limited.
 

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aero_student said:
Your best bet is going to be to get a new maf housing since you cut yours up, check the for sale forums here and at focaljet. If that doesn't turn up anything they're fairly cheap from the dealer and get one of the intakes I mentioned earlier, they are a large improvement from what you're currently running.
I'm not actually running it because like I said earlier ^ the dia around the maf is slightly larger, and a straight shot into the tb isn't as efficient as the narrower pipe anyway, so i've been stock one day after making that setup. All realized.... all good. [thumb] I want a short ram, but I don't like the Steeda's heat shield... so i've been (somewhat) patiently for the Volant setup to be created. Probably the best intakes i've ever seen, especially for a replacement/permanent setup... it's the best choice imo.
 

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STFocigirl said:
I agree with you to a certain extent. Nevertheless, If you take a look at the Steeda short ram intake, there is no difference in what we are trying/doing. The MAF tube sits right on the trottle body and connects directly into a filter. We have the same set up with the exception of using the factory MAF tubing instead of the tubing that Steeda uses.

I'm not saying that our setup is superior to Steeda or the other reputable companies out there because I'm sure that they have the money to perfect the idea. Yet, I'm sure the idea most likely originated from this very concept. If I had the money, I would go to a machinist and could very well have designed the tube like steeda for less the price of paying for the equipment with Steeda name attached. This is why there are so many companies making intakes with simular designs each claiming to put out more horsepower than the other.

Now, as far as experience modifying cars to go fast, I'm not ignorant or too new in this department to not fully understand reduced intake piping can also improve air flow. My options are CAI or short ram. I choose short ram rather than CAI. My goal for this car is to have a functional hood scoop right where the filter sits giving my car a more cool air then having a CAI running into the wheel well.

So I understand what your saying. Not all of us are newb's to modifiying cars that we don't fully understand what we are doing. I'm just mechanically limited.
You are assuming that what Steeda designed is right. It may work, but that doesn't mean it's right and an optimal design with solid engineering.

There is much more to an intake than tubing. Do you guys know anything about intake resonance, Bernoulli's Principle, velocity stacks, how the ecu and the maf interface, etc?

You may not have an perceivable issues or CEL's, but I can guarantee that your car is not running as well as it could be. The air is extremely turbulent after just coming through the filter and having it go through the maf right away is poor engineering. That's one of the benefits of the longer tubes used in other intakes, that length smoothes the air out and allows for much more accurate readings from the maf.
 

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Note that at least on my '04, there is a factory diffuser at the bottom of the MAF tube to smooth out the air flow. Removing it may result in gains at a specific rpm but most likely there will be losses at other rpm's which could result in a net loss of useable power.
 
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