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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #1
All right. I have decided that this weekend, for the first time EVER, I am going to handwash my car. And I need everyone's help, because I have no clue what to use. I've done a search, and everyone seems to like different things, so, I just want your best suggestions that would fit the critera I will lay out.

First off, I just want to say I am NOT looking at spending 8 hours washing my car. I'd like to wash the outside, the wheels, the wheelwells, and clean the interior and the inside of the windows. A couple things:

1) Windows have 20% tint.
2) Wheels have been painted.

So..... I want to wash my car, claybar my car, then wax my car. I assume the order is wash, claybar, wax? Or is it wash, claybar, wash, wax?

And here are my main questions:

Exterior:
1) What product(s) should I use to wash the car?
2) What product(s) should I use to claybar the car?
3) What product(s) should I use to wax the car?

And um.... any good tips or tricks for wash/wax/claybar? I don't know how to do any of it.

Interior:
1) What product(s) should I use to clean the windows? (Keeping in mind they are tinted)
2) What product(s) should I use to clean the dash/trim? (Looking for a wipe or something)

Any and all help and information will be appreciated. I'm a COMPLETE noob at the whole washing thing, as I normally just run it through an automatic wash.

Oh.. and I am not looking at spending a ton of money on carwash material. My friend recommended the Mr. Clean Auto Wash System..... bnut I figured I would check with my Fellow Fanatics first. And where would I find the products? I don't have time to order anything from the net... so it needs to be available at a store.

Thanks for the help everyone! See you at Focus in the Field!
 

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Buy a Mr. Clean Auto Dry, it's $20.00.

I use it. I never have to towel dry my car. It comes out spot free every time. I love the thing.

And if the car gets dusty overnight, I can just hose it down, use the filtered water setting, and call it good.

Get a good microfiber sponge or towel from Wayne.

As far as wax goes... lots of people like Wayne's products.

Personally I use Meguire's gold class wax, but that's just because I don't like having to wait for stuff to get shipped to me. Looks great on my car but only lasts about 3 or 4 months. There was a thread on here a while ago about consumer reports looking at car wax. Might wanna do a search on it.

For windows, just make sure you get tint-safe window cleaner. You can find that at autozone or even Target. Make sure it says "tint-safe".
 

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Everyone has their own method and preference to washing and detail cleaning a car.

I got a huge x-mas gift full of carnuba wax, polishes, soaps, etc...
Sadly, the only thing I use from that, is a little microfiber cloth that came with it.

I converted to Fast Wax over a year ago. I've never picked up a bucket of soap or polish since then.

I spray the almighty wax on my car, after rinsing it with the garden hose. Then I wipe away all the dirt, and impurities off the paint with microfiber.

"Doesn't this scratch the paint?!?!"
-No... Fast Wax has some awesome ingredients that Lift the Dirt and nasty stuff off the paint, and it clings to the microfiber.

1 Can costs $15, But I purchase in bulk to bring the price down.
1 Can lasts 6 months to a year, depending on size of the car. (6-10 spray-downs)

With my focus, I fastwax it, once a month, and weekly I spray the car down, and the dirt just falls right off to the ground, then I dry it with microfiber.

As for the painted wheels? Fastwax works on wheels, and window glass as well...

I am spoiled with this stuff... Knowing I can go from down-right dirty, to a show-room shine in 30 minutes.

I Would highly recommend clay barring the car before-hand... just because there's stuff on there that No wax can remove with just microfiber.
 

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www.fastwax.com
www.fw1shop.com
fükkenwax.com [use regular U... damn Bad-word filter!]
fükken wax = fast wax... same thing, different distributor.
--------------------------
How Is It Applied?

It's really simple. First park your vehicle in a shaded area, out of wind, if possible. If needed, rinse any heavy excess dirt, Shake can well before using. Use two terry cloth towels. Spray a light coat of Fükken Wax on a small section of your vehicle. a 2 or 3 foot square area is recommended. Using the first towel, gently rub Fükken Wax in a circular motion. Allow approx. 15 seconds for Fükken Wax to dry to light filmy haze. Using the second towel, wipe/ buff to a showroom shine, turning towel frequently to avoid build-up. *NOTE*- FOR faded paints, bugs, tar, tree sap, etc. apply a heavier coat of Fükken Wax , and let stand for 10 seconds to allow product to remove substance(s) from surface before rubbing.

How Long Does Fükken Wax Last?

On Average Fükken Wax will last 8 to 10 weeks, depending on weather and driving conditions.

Does Fükken Wax harm or scratch paint?

The answer is NO! Fükken Wax is a combination of petroleum distillates and cleaning solvents formulated to surround, lubricate, emulsify and lift dirt or dust particles away from the surface of the vehicle. Add the durability of Carnauba Wax, and you will have a vehicle with the deep color and "wet look" that is the envy of the neighborhood.
 

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RespectMyAuthoritah!
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Talk to Wayne from Waynestowels.com. It's a pricey kit, but it comes with top notch products. I asked this about a year ago and i will find my thread, but here's what i do:

First i wash it using the special glove mitt that wayne included in his wax kit. Then i wash again using special round mitt, just to make sure i get all the dust and everything off. I then use a solution of Distilled Water and Meguires Gold Class Car Wash for the Clay Bar Lube. I then Clay Bar the whole car. I rinse off the Distlled Water/Gold Class Wash and then i use a Leaf Blower to get the access water off the car. I then use the Drying towel that Wayne sent in his kit to get the rest of it off.

After the washing and claying is done, i Use the Einszett Metallic Polish Wax that also came in Waynes kit. After i Polish the whole car i then use Einszett Glanz - Synthetic Wax to finish off the car. It's silky soft and looks great!

For the tires, i use Bleach White on a scrub brush and use the dirty water from the 2nd washing to clean each tire. I then use Armor All Tire Shine to give the tires that sparkling shine [thumb]

On the inside, i use Cockpit Premium from Wayne as well. Cleans the car very well and leaves a pleasing smell and reduces shiny glare from the dash and surrounding areas.

Wayne is the man and you should really e-mail him and get his advice. If not then Lil Pzev will join in and give her .02 [thumb]


EDIT:

FOUND MY THREADS!

Clicky Clicky
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Clicky Clicky
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #6
How many coats of wax should one put on the car if one has never waxed it before? DOes it count I always get the 'Ultimate' Wash when going through an AutomaticCarWash... it has the wax, and tri-foam and all that...

Sorry for being stupid about this... hehe.

Oh.. and I DID say that I didn't want to order anything from the internet, and I was hoping to get suggestions that I could go pick up at a local store. and nothing too expensive please.
 

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I wouldn't bother with all that..

Just clay bar the car, and use whatever spray-on wax you find at autozone or kragen.

I used to like meguires or eagle 1, or whatever it's called... it's been so long since I've used anything else...

I am going to purchase a bulk order of fastwax so I can show other's the light.
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #8
Oh.. and one more thing....

Best thing to use to clean the engine? Its never been even wiped down.... I'd like to just make it look acceptabel.. doesn't need to be clean enough to eat off of.....

Thanks everyone!
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #10
SOunds easy enough.....

....but then again... I'm retarded.....
 

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Ive been surfing Autopia.org lately and the general consensus over there is that these are some of the best OTC products;

Wash - Meguiars NXT

Wash Mitt - Basically any sheepskin mitt as long as it isn't one with synthetic fibers. Try to avoid sponges as any of the dirt on the surface just gets scraped across the paint and causes marring and scratches.

Drying Towel - Places like AutoZone, etc. carry Waffle Weave towels which are excellent for drying.

Clay - Clay Magic or Mothers

Wax - Meguiars Gold Class or Meguiars NXT
 

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Don't use bleach products to wash your tires. It will gray them over time, and strip the tires of some of their protectant and oils. elbow grease is the best bet. Also, if you're a COMPLETE noob at this stuff, check this out.

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/how-to.html

It's got EVERYTHING you need. Along with some of the info here, you'll be set.
 

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CrazyMatt said:
Oh.. and one more thing....

Best thing to use to clean the engine? Its never been even wiped down.... I'd like to just make it look acceptabel.. doesn't need to be clean enough to eat off of.....

Thanks everyone!
Heh... we all have our ways of doing things.

Matt, did you want to polish your car too?

Here's something to consider...

If you've only done auto car washes and it's a 2001, then my guess is your paint is in need of some serious care.

You can buy all the accoutrements from autozone to do a good job in restoring your car:

+claybar
+mequire's spray detailer (for lubricating the claybar)
+Car wash soap
+Wash mitt
+polish
+wax
+Mother's back to black (or other similar product to restore the plastic pieces on your car, such as door handles, mirrors, antenna, cowl, grill, etc.)
+microfiber towels for polish and wax.
+tire dressing

THEN you can spend hours on your car washing, claybarring, polsihing, waxing, and detailing. And with claybar, polishing by hand, and waxing by hand, it will take hours.

After you buy all that stuff you are looking at a chunk of change. I would guess around $60 for everything.

After you spend the hours on it, it still won't look anywhere near as good as if you just went to a good bodyshop and had them detail it for you.

If you really want to restore the finish on your car. Here's what I would suggest. Find a reputable body shop or car detailer and ask if they'll cut you a deal on detailing the outside of your car (and ask them what products they use). I found a place in Detroit that uses quality products and does a great job... but only charges $75 for a full exterior detail and wax. I would expect it would cost between $75 - $150.
 

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Now that being said... if you MUST do it yourself...

Start with your car in the shade...

1. Wash your car with dish detergent and a microfiber wash-mit. (This is a BIG no-no for regular washing because it will strip off your wax, but if you are going to claybar, polish, and rewax... you want to take off all the old wax on your car.)

2. Claybar. There are links on the forum as to how to do this. I am too lazy to find them. But the gist is, you spray a section of your car with spray detailer, run the claybar over the section, then repeat. When it gets dirty, you knead the clay.

3. Polish. Rub polish on sections of your car. Move to another section and rub polish on that. Keep going till you get the whole car done. Then go back with a clean microfiber towel and rub the polish off (it will haze).

You have two choices with polishing:
. 1. buy a random orbit buffer you'll spend another $20 - $40 on the buffer, plus you'll have to buy bonnets (another $10 - $20 for a couple). You will not get as good results with a random orbit buffer as you would with a rotary buffer for polishing (they're really more for waxing the car), but I wouldn't suggest a rotary buffer because you'll burn your paint. Also you'll have to be careful on any angles on your car. Only use the buffer on flat surfaces.

. 2. Polish by hand. PITA and you will not get very good results. It will be noticeable, but not anywhere near as good as with a buffer.

4. Wax repeat the same steps as with polishing. You can also use a buffer to wax (random orbit is best). Be careful not to get wax or polish on your plastic pieces or between joints (such as between your bumper and fenders) otherwise it will cake to them and look like crap. It is a PITA to get it out of those crevices.

5. Use Back to Black on all trim pieces that are plastic, or rubber and not painted. It will restore those pieces to new-looking. (I use it on my grill, washer nozzles, etc.) be careful not to get the stuff on painted surfaces (it's very hard not to). After this step is done, go back over the car with a microfiber towel and buff out any painted surfaces that have back to black on them.

6. Wash from the top down. Always wash your wheels last. You can polish and wax them just like the rest of your car.

7. Use tire dressing on the tires. Buy the gel kind and apply it with a foam tire applicator.

8. Clean your engine. First cover electrically sensitive equipment with plastic bags. I cover my battery, fusebox, airbox, and coilpack. Hose down the engine. Spray degreaser over all of it. Wait a few minutes (or whatever the bottle says) spray it down again. Do not spray cold water on a hot engine. Do not spray water on an engine that is running.

9. Grab a chair. Sit down. Drink a beer. Look at the beauty of your freshly cleaned and detailed car. Hope it doesn't rain.
 

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Oh, one last thing... if you have to take your car to a car wash, take it to a TOUCH FREE wash that they have at the DIY washes. Those regualr auto washes will ruin your car paint.
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #16
Wow.. THANK YOU everyone.. and thank you Black and Tan for the detailed write up.. just what I am looking for....

Maaaannn.. my laziness is totally shwoing through.. When I read all that, I was like "ugh...." hahahaha... but I suppose the end result is worth it.

Gotta look good for FITF!
 

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CrazyMatt said:
Wow.. THANK YOU everyone.. and thank you Black and Tan for the detailed write up.. just what I am looking for....

Maaaannn.. my laziness is totally shwoing through.. When I read all that, I was like "ugh...." hahahaha... but I suppose the end result is worth it.

Gotta look good for FITF!
[:D]

That's why I think you'd be better off paying to have it detailed. I just did all that stuff to mine at the beginning of summer, and washed and rewaxed it for the dream cruise. But I already have polish, wax, buffer, bonnets, etc. etc. etc. After all that work, I think a professional detailer would have done a much better job.

My car is black, and does have 100k miles on it. Black cars are nasty... every tiny little swirl mark shows right up.

Get it done for you and then just buy a mr. clean autodry and a three pack of microfiber towels. It takes me 20 minutes to wash my car top to bottom, and it dries all by itself. [thumb] Your car will look fantastic for months.
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #18
Ahhhhh.. Mr Clean Autodry.... That is what I think I will purchase for Car Washing.

But I still need to claybar and Wax. So... My purchase list..

1) Mr Clean AutoDry
2) Microfiber Towels.

Now.. I just need to know what materials to get for claybarring and waxing....
 

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EvenDeathCan'tStopMe
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Discussion Starter #20
^^^^^^

But uh.. what do you USE for each of those steps, product- and supply-wise?
 
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