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I've got a 2013 Focus SE. I tried starting it this morning and it wouldn't turn over. I used a portable battery charger on it, and after a lot of trying, it eventually started up.

After pulling out of my driveway, I realized none of the dash was working. No HUD, the odometer/gas/temp indicators don't move. The radio HUD will turn on, but only if I manually push the power button. Also, blinkers and headlights don't turn on.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here? Anything obvious I can check for before I call up the dealership?
 

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Did you buy the car brand new? First thing that popped in my head was that it was a flood car sold at a dealer used.

Sounds like you might need to test battery and go from there. Maybe if the battery is dead enough, it wouldn't have enough juice to power dash... even with power coming from alternator. Just a thought!
 

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Is the battery staying charged? If not check the alternator belt. If that's fine your alternator may be done.
 

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Check for blown fuses in the BCM (under the dash on pass. side behind the glovebox) Also check for blown fuses out in the fuse block near the battery under the hood. You'll wanna check mega fuse 4 (feeds BCM if power locks work, then this fuse is probably good) In the BCM check fuses 67 and 69
 

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I've got a 2013 Focus SE. I tried starting it this morning and it wouldn't turn over. I used a portable battery charger on it, and after a lot of trying, it eventually started up.

After pulling out of my driveway, I realized none of the dash was working. No HUD, the odometer/gas/temp indicators don't move. The radio HUD will turn on, but only if I manually push the power button. Also, blinkers and headlights don't turn on.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on here? Anything obvious I can check for before I call up the dealership?
Check fuses 26 and 29 in the passenger compartment fuse panel.
Your instrument panel cluster (gauges, driver's screen / HUD) ...(IPC) aren't working - the radio will not automatically turn on if it doesn't have communication with the IPC module.

I believe your turn signals and headlight switch are also fed into this module.

One hypothesis is that you have a short somewhere in the IPC wiring which caused the battery drain and/or blew a fuse, or there is an issue internally with the IPC which caused it to malfunction and drain your battery, also causing it not to function once you got the vehicle running.

Any obvious things you can think of, like a really humid or wet day / night before this happened?
 

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Hi there, Im having the similar issue. I have 2013 Ford Focus St and this morning when I start my car my dashboard is dead. Non is working. My battery is fine and all the lights and signal light is working outside but the dashboard non is working. Can’t drive it because I can’t see the odometer but it was running. Anyone have an Idea what would be the problem? When I push the radio it show on the screen Shutting off batter saving something like that then it disappeared. Any input will be great? Thanks
 

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Hi there, Im having the similar issue. I have 2013 Ford Focus St and this morning when I start my car my dashboard is dead. Non is working. My battery is fine and all the lights and signal light is working outside but the dashboard non is working. Can’t drive it because I can’t see the odometer but it was running. Anyone have an Idea what would be the problem? When I push the radio it show on the screen Shutting off batter saving something like that then it disappeared. Any input will be great? Thanks
Did you find the fault as I'm looking into the same thing?
 

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I would check you battery terminals and the BCM sensor on the negative terminal at the battery. I have a 2015 Ford Escape that has the same charging system as the focus(I have a 2012 Focus S as well) and the Escape wouldn't turn over while trying to start it last week and all of the electronics were going crazy. I removed the battery cover and saw a ton of crud on both terminals. I removed the battery (pain in the @SS procedure) and found that the BCM terminals were corroded to the point they looked melted. I ordered a new negative cable (with the BCM attached) for 48$ from Ford and a new wiring pigtail for the harness that plugs into the BCM and that restored it to normal.

Not sure if it's the same issue for you but sounds suspiciously similar.

Good luck
 

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I just had the same issue after having a jump start. I removed fuse 69. & 79 and tested them. They were good, so I put them back in and now everything is back to normal.
 
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