[JamieLee2k]

First of all I have a Ford Focus TDCi 2003 115bhp

So I have a fault with my Focus, it wont start, I know the battery is dying and I need to get another so I borrowed one from my friend and it still didn't work. We read it on a multimeter and the voltage dropped by 2-3 volts when switching the engine on.

I have had a mechanic look over the car and he said he cannot find the fault, but also his OBD Scanner will not talk so we cannot get the fault code/s.

When I switch on the engine it first trys to start (sometimes) then no revs and the coil light flashes, we have checked the relays and they seem to be working with the use of multimeter. We have also checked if diesel is going through the injectors and it is.

When I drove the car yesterday (after using jump leads) it died on me when I was idle at a junction, but started when I tried again, But this morning it just wouldn't start at all.

I am at a loss and would really love some help

 

[whynotthinkwhynot]

It could be an ignition switch, but it could also be a missing ground wire or bad alternator. As far as the code scanner goes, it could be another problem like bad wiring.

What does the odometer look like? An odometer that reads -------------- can be a bad PCM.

 

[BC_ZX3]

No TDCIs on this side of the pond, but "coil light"? Perhaps you mean the glow plug light?

A flashing glow plug light may mean a problem with the fuel rail pressure and associated hardware/sensors, I've read. The British Ford forums seem to detail this problem fairly regularly on diesels. As in:

"I have a 2002 1.8 (115) TDCi Focus in zetec trim and experienced similar problems to yourself in that the glow plug light would start flashing, the car would go into limp home mode and then cut out altogether all in a matter of seconds. On occasions, it was difficult to start and when it did, it started with a real metallic sounding clatter, often cutting out again until it eventually started normally. Then on one occasion, it would not start at all despite the engine turning over - it would just not fire. Had to be towed by the RAC to the local Ford dealer.

Once plugged in to their diagnostic equipment, it threw up faults relating to the common rail fuel pressure sensor and the IMV valve which, as far as I understand it ,controls the fuel pressure to the common rail and hence the pressure sensor fault. The IMV valve was replaced ... it was approx. £140 iirc. Had no problems in the 2 months since, touch wood! The car drives totally normally." http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=47779

Hope that helps.

 

[sailor]

I always try to fix KNOWN faults first, THEN see what else may be a problem - OFTEN associated problems disappear when the KNOWN fault is repaired...

In your case, a KNOWN bad battery, PLUS probable poor connections that need to be cleaned MAY solve all the issues once addressed....

Chasing guesses as to additional POSSIBLE issues, WITHOUT fixing the KNOWN problem, is a waste of effort, since proper testing CAN'T be done WITHOUT fixing the initial issue - as you have already discovered when the "code reader" was no help. (it needs proper battery voltage to function properly)

Luck!

P.S. - Cleaning the ground connections, ESPECIALLY those near the battery, solves many issues as well.... Battery terminals WILL be cleaned thoroughly when the new batt. is installed, right?

 

[JamieLee2k]

Thanks for all your advice, I have took the car to a couple of garages and no-one can read it so our last chance is tomorrow and if that fails then it needs to goto Ford.

Do anyone know what Ford charge for an Reading?

 

[sailor]

did you REPLACE the battery?????

Bad batteries can suck ALL the juice so the car won't run, even WITH a "jumper" battery attached.....

Fix KNOWN faults First!