Hi guys! I joined this website today in desperate need of help. My girlie's car which is a 2005 Focus ZX4 automatic died on her 2 days ago while she was driving. She stated that the car sputtered and died and when she tried to crank it over, nothing happened. I went to check the car out to see what was going on, and the first thing I noticed was the security light blinking in the instrument cluster when the key was in position 1. Now, while it was in position 1 I waited to hear the 3 audible beeps which sound off giving the go ahead to start the car, and when I start it I get nothing. The security light keeps blinking and doesn't go solid, or turn off. I popped the hood and check the fuse box on the firewall and noticed that a fuse was blown in the F9 fuse block. I replaced it, and still no go. I'm at a lost at what I can do!! I've searched and searched for the last 2 days online and can't get any confirmed answers to this issue. So here's another recap on the situation: Turn key to start car, no clicks from the starter, no buzz sound from the fuel pump. All lights work and everything else checks out. Any help is much appreciated! [cheers]
Car died while driving. No click from starter or buzz from fuel pump.
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I have not and here's why. Being that I cannot get a click from the starter or buzzing from the fuel pump tells me that the problem must be rooted from the anti-theft system. I just want to know what I can do to fix this lol. Thank you for the suggestion though. 
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check the ignition capacitor(or i think thats what its called) its the black box with two wire that come out of the top with at the top left of the engine. one of the wires tends to come out. shorts and blows fuse. same thing happened to me.
You had the exact problem as my car? Would you happen to have a picture of the part you're referring to my friend?
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http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208353
http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=208353
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Not sure about that model focus but could it be possible the key has one of those security chips in it? I had a caprice that did the same thing once. The chip in the key went bad and I had to go to the chevy house to get a new key.
^ The girlie bought the car with the valet key only and it has been working. Just checked under the hood and guess what? THE EXACT SAME WIRE IS DETACHED!! Now, I read that the engine management fuse blows after the wire arcs? I replaced a blown fuse that I had found in the fuse block under the hood. It was a yellow 20 Amp jumbo fuse and even though I changed it, the car will not start. Another thing that I noticed today is that the mileage appears in this format ------
Still no start!
Still no start!
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Well, for no start conditions, start with the obvious: Use a multimeter to test the battery voltage first.
Ensure the terminals are tight and corrosion free and no wire connections to the battery posts are brittle or broken. Check the grounds are clean.
You could also try replacing the battery with a known good battery or remove the old battery and have it load tested.
The odometer ------ may indicate a low voltage condition even though your lights work. Also while a rapidly blinking PATS (Passive Anti Theft) light is supposed to signal an incorrect key, it relies on the car having enough juice to power the transceiver signal from the ignition column. Another poster here had the same problem with PATS; replacement of the battery solved it.
Your starter motor solenoid should at least click on an attempted start.
Ensure the terminals are tight and corrosion free and no wire connections to the battery posts are brittle or broken. Check the grounds are clean.
You could also try replacing the battery with a known good battery or remove the old battery and have it load tested.
The odometer ------ may indicate a low voltage condition even though your lights work. Also while a rapidly blinking PATS (Passive Anti Theft) light is supposed to signal an incorrect key, it relies on the car having enough juice to power the transceiver signal from the ignition column. Another poster here had the same problem with PATS; replacement of the battery solved it.
Your starter motor solenoid should at least click on an attempted start.
Last night I went through all of the ground wires that come from the battery and sprayed anti-corrosion on them and cleaned them. The PATS doesn't blink rapidly, but more like every 2 seconds. If the car doesn't recognize the key, does it cause the car to die especially while driving?
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No. The job of PATS is to disable the car and prevent it from starting. Once it's running, PATS is no longer relevant.
IMO, you need to, as a first step, remove the battery terminals from the posts and give them a thorough cleaning with a wire brush. Did you do this? Spraying them with a cleaner on the outside is insufficient.
IMO, you need to, as a first step, remove the battery terminals from the posts and give them a thorough cleaning with a wire brush. Did you do this? Spraying them with a cleaner on the outside is insufficient.
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No. It's looking like a simple dying/faulty battery to me. Modern car's electrical systems require a steady proper voltage to run and problems with the charging system can cause various assorted "electrical weirdness".
If the battery is the problem, next question would be why? Simple answer is old age; more involved answer is alternator isn't charging properly or there is a wiring fault. Check the low cost simple stuff first.
If the battery is the problem, next question would be why? Simple answer is old age; more involved answer is alternator isn't charging properly or there is a wiring fault. Check the low cost simple stuff first.
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OK. So battery appears good and the relay still doesn't click, right? Does the PATS light flash still? Normal operation for PATS light is:
1. key out of ignition - light flashes intermittently (every 3 seconds)
2. key in ignition - light goes solid, then off after about three seconds
3. car starts and runs - light stays off
Does this describe your PATS light operation? (except step 3)
Next step after this would be to check the starter motor relay/fuses.
Then check the start inhibit switch (how depending on whether it's ATX or manual)
Then voltage to ignition switch
Then starter motor/starter motor solenoid
1. key out of ignition - light flashes intermittently (every 3 seconds)
2. key in ignition - light goes solid, then off after about three seconds
3. car starts and runs - light stays off
Does this describe your PATS light operation? (except step 3)
Next step after this would be to check the starter motor relay/fuses.
Then check the start inhibit switch (how depending on whether it's ATX or manual)
Then voltage to ignition switch
Then starter motor/starter motor solenoid
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There is a starter relay in the passenger compartment fuse box: upper right hand corner, R17. The car is an AT, so push on the brake pedal, make sure the brake lights are on, then shift into N, and try starting. That should test the N/S switch in the shifter unless it's completely stuck. I have read where spilled drinks resulted in a failure of this switch. I can't be more specific because I don't have an AT.
I did just check, and my PATS lock flashes in 3 sec intervals until I turn the key to ON, then it stays lit, and goes off after 3 sec.
I did just check, and my PATS lock flashes in 3 sec intervals until I turn the key to ON, then it stays lit, and goes off after 3 sec.
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