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MOAR BEWST!!!!
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Discussion Starter #1
My car got hit in the left rear and bent my trailering arm/knuckle so I had to get a brand new one of those. Ford has such a crappy design that EVERYTHING connects to this peice I couldnt believe it. The crash also messed up one of my stabilizer bars and my lower control arm. My car has been sitting for a month now and I have all the new parts and everything I need to put it back together. The only thing I have left is to get the LCA off from the frame. I have tried everything from heat to breaker bars with leverage bars added, to jacking up the breaker bar to try and turn it and nothing works. Its been sprayed an uncountable amount of times with PB blaster the only thing I havnt tried is a good ol impact wrench. Do you think this will work? What should/ I do if it doesnt come out with an impact? Also I noticed that there are two lobes at the end for adjusting the camber of the wheel. How are these lobes placed? Is it one big peice that goes all the way through or are they two peices or what? I know its alot of questions but I really want to drive my car again before the snow flys this year!!

End Rant.[bigcry]
 

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can you take some pics of it to better see what you are looking at? I didn't have an accident but when my lca bushings were seized... NOTHING got my lca's out... no impact tool worked.. so if yours is bent up and such you're better off cutting it all out and replacing everything since it soundsl ike you are doing that anyways. but some pics would DEF help you out. good luck. Trust me! i know your pain with these lol
 

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MOAR BEWST!!!!
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Discussion Starter #3
Yes I will get some pics tonight after I get home from school. I basically am replacing everything back there besides the brakes, spring, and shock, and hub. This project has sucked SO bad but yes I will get pics. My lca isnt bent up at all its the bushings that are bad and I have thought about cutting it out but Im worried about messing something up that cant be replaced without MAJOR car surgery you know?
 

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if your bushings are seized... you will have to cut it out... that's what i had to do... i mean if you have the proper heat tools then you can literally burn it out.. but idk if you have access to the proper tools... i know i didn't. Cutting is a major PITA... i will tell you taht... if i had to do it again.. i'd def take it to someone to get it done. I know the dealer quoted me around 350 to cut out the old lca's and put in the new ones for me... if there is a next time... i will have someone else do it.
 

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br/o/stang
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When I tried to do the suspension on my 01 zx3 the same thing happened. no amount of PBlaster, impact gun, or 10 foot pole would make it separate from the bushing. Eventually I got pissed, took my 1/2 drive breaker bar and stomped on it, snapping the head clean off XD

yeah, cut em out...
 

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I.S.A.I.K.I.
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I believe that the very inner bolts near the middle of the car, on the LCA, are one piece as well and use tabbed washers for camber alignment.

I was at another member's house on the forum here a couple of months ago trying to swap his Pro-line kit with my stock kit and his LCA's wouldn't free up either. I know for a fact that one of his bushings were destroyed in the process so we just stopped the swap right there. He even had an industrial farm equipment impact gun that couldn't break the bolts loose!!

The only way that I can think of to get the pre'03-04 unrevised LCAs off is to use a rotory cutting wheel or an air chisel to break the tack welded forward facing nuts off.
 

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MOAR BEWST!!!!
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Discussion Starter #7
yes i am talking about the bolt that is towards the middle of the car. If i cut it out i wont be able to get the bolt out still which is my problem. So i wouldnt even know where to start cutting this out without cutting something very important that I will regret alot.
 

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so you are saying your cammed bolt is seized? is your lca bolt seized as well? the one closest to the wheel? you should be able to hammer the cammed bolt out.
 

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I.S.A.I.K.I.
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Try putting another jack underneath the camber bolt to line the holes up and tap the bolt out with a punch and see if that helps at all.
 

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MOAR BEWST!!!!
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Discussion Starter #10
yea my cammed bolt is siezed like no other! all the others are out but this one wont budge at all.
 

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I.S.A.I.K.I.
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I would just heat that bolt up a bit to burn off the bits of broken bushing in there, then proceed to tap the bolt out once the tension from the bushing bits is relieved.
 

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MOAR BEWST!!!!
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Discussion Starter #12
the bolt itself will not turn period. i have tried heat. if i could unscrew it i would cut the other side of the bolt off but I cant =(
 

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MOAR BEWST!!!!
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Discussion Starter #13






These are those pics I promised. You can see the bolt Im talking about and the cammed parts at both ends.[boxface]
 

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Are you trying to replace the springs? If so, push down and pull them right out! No need to pull that bolt...If not, you will prolly have to cut the head off the bolt, and hope that the bolt is not fused into the spacer in there. I have seen that on some older high milage foci...
We have done several spring swaps, and one of them was complete hell, as we had to cut both ends off the bolts, and trust me I'm good at getting stuff out with a torch, and penetrant, and anything else it takes.
Good luck...If its more than springs, lemme know and maybe I can give you a direction.
 

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Okay, sorry, I just read your first post. The impact gun will generate some force, but I can always make more effort with a good breaker bar and an extension. So, that prolly won't do it. At this point you have nothing to loose by snapping the bolt off, half the work to cut through.
You need a cut off wheel, some safety goggles and a good air compressor. Cut the heads off and HOPEFULLY drift the remainder out... If that won't work, make sure you cut them off as close to the sheet metal as possible. Then, spread the sheet metal enough to pry it out... Its a bear, but it works. I"ve had to do two older Foci that way. Don't sweat bending the metal, it will tap back into place with a soft hammer. I"ll bet that is what you will have to do. The bolt is almost suredly siezed to the inner spacer as one part and will need to be pried out and tossed. Get the bolt from Ford, as it is a custom shouldered thing if I remember correctly.
 

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Dont tap the metal back in place. Let the bolts draw it up. Using a hammer will shock the metal and it will keep srpinging back and forth and weaken it. But just cut both head and nut off and bend the metal out and she will slide right out. Thats what I had to do with my supra when I put prothane bushings on it.
 

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^^^ Good point ^^^^^, come to think I did just let the bolts pull it back, myself...
 

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There's a tool called a nut cracker, that you can buy at any parts or tool store that will cut the nut off and then you can knock the bolt out. I've had to do this when restoring old cars.

Rick
 

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if you cant get it off yo ushould jerk it harder............ rofl..

if your doing a drop there really is no need to take that bolt out. youve alfready gotten it down to where the spring is almost just hanging there. geta spring comressor and then pop the spring out. repeat for other side...

problem nuber 2. unbot the rear sway bar from the other side and swing it down out of the way.it looks like the arm is hitting the swaybar in the one pic, there for not letting it move.
 
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