I don't know what the setup is that connects your pedal to the cable, but years ago I found a post by someone on the Ford Explorer forums explaining that he put a few washers on the cable ahead of the hole in the pedal arm that took the slack out of his stretched cable. He added washers until the floored throttle moved the throttle plate to a level position inside the throttle body, which is the position it should be in with a new cable. Give that a shot if the cable can slide at the pedal arm. Just make sure to leave SOME slack.
If you move throttle plate at all you are looking at screwing up PCM settings via TPS. Not to mention it's dangerous to have throttle artificially moved in that fashion. The throttle plate has an adjustable stop, so if someone did that he truly had no clue anyway. And making plate 'level'? Ive not seen one like that ever in 40 years. Like as not you'd have vehicle going 40 miles an hour at idle when done, if you add washers till plate moves you then have NO SLACK, it's physically impossible to have both conditions there. By the way, you don't screw with the adjustable stop either, it also messes up things by doing it. Like IAC range, and again, TPS initial setting.
Not to mention...............just how do you think you are going to get those washers over the cable without removing the end of it?
Some people should think a second before they post...........
If you had read what I posted, I said nothing about moving the throttle plate, and FYI, I have an Explorer, which allowed me to test this method. My cable isn't stretched, so when the throttle is floored in MY EXPLORER, the throttle plate is wide open inside the throttle body. Yes, I removed the intake tube and looked for myself.
I didn't suggest he add washers until the plate moves. I suggested he add washers until most of the excess slack is taken up, essentially making it behave as if the cable is no longer stretched.
Some people should read for comprehension rather than firing off a reply before engaging the brain.
Thanks for the help so far. I was not able to look at it this afternoon due to rain. But I will try to look around some more. I might send a pic to see if I can get more advice. Maybe everything is OK I mean the car drives but it just seems to have a lot of play in the cable
It could be the end at the accelerator peddle has worn or the peddle has worn. Neither are very strong.
Here is what the peddle end looks like:
The grommet fits into the peddle and the spring acts to protect against a very heavy foot.
If the spring is damaged, there will be excessive slop in the cable.
You can use a washer or 2 to shim the peddle end, just use good judgement doing so.
I would say there is about a half inch of deflection there. I thought that white piece at my knuckle was an adjustment but I can't get it to move. I guess the owner before me tried to do something and broke it from the mount explaining the zip ties on it. Is there a way I can move the locking ball at the end of the cable and re-tighten it?? I don't know that any of this is a big deal to start with but I don't like the play in the throttle.
That is not the throttle cable.
That is the cable for the Cruise Control. It will tighten up when you have cruise on; and there's no way to safely check slop.
But if cruise holds a steady speed and works as desired, then all's well.
Like stated the one you have your finger on is cruise , use the washers on the foot end of the cable or use the cable lock that the cable slides through and a screw tightens up on it on the foot end of the cable
Well don't I fell like a complete idiot.... your rite that does explain a lot. Yes it holds a steady speed where ever I set it. So now I will have to check THE OTHER cable haha. Yea go ahead and poke fun.. I deserve it lol.
X2, work on the foot end of the cable. And a LOCK WASHER to shim throttle???, wrong part there most definitely...........flat only.
You can make a stand of copper tubing to surround the white plastic broken part with hose clamp and then split other ends to make legs that can be pop riveted down to main bracket. Fix both the broken part and slack at once but you ALWAYS want some cruise cable slack, it prevents accidents.
Looking at that bracket there today, it would take all of fifteen minutes to cut it and splice back together with a simple cheap piece of L shaped bar stock like easily found at Home Depot or the hardware store. You could adjust literally however you wanted there.
Uh, zip ties on throttle linkage unless truly thought out are incompetent.
I could tell y'all a story about a ziptied throttle assembly on a 372 inch 8 bbl. SBC Monza race car that upon start and a test burnout stuck throttle wide open and then the car tore completely through two light steel storage buildings before coming to rest 25 ft. from a rush hour 6 lane freeway. Not the best of days there...............
Fix it right and rock solid, not fix it deadly..................