Focus Fanatics Forum banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My Zetec is approaching 100k, and since it's 8 years-old I figured I should change the timing belt soon.

I've done the following on my car:
-oil/air filter/wiper blades
-battery
-fuel filter
-window crank system (manual windows)
-clutch master cylinder
-front and rear suspension (struts, shocks, springs, rear LCAs)

Do you think a timing belt chain is within my skill level? Aside from the timing bar and pin, are there any special tools needed?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,380 Posts
should be. my focus is kinda a guinea pig for me working on cars.

before i did my timing belt and installed cams. all my work was brakes/suspension and odds and ends nothing major and i pulled it off flawlessly. and have since swapped my car from ATX to a 5 speed.

doing the belt is actually super easy (i also find it hard to mess it up if you have the timing pin and bar, i have massives and love it)
 

·
Hatch Nation #136
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
Timing a Zetec focus is very straight forward.

Get the bar and pin, check out the how to on the site, and grab a book for your car if you haven't already done so.

Otherwise it is a matter of paying attention when you take everything apart so that you can put it all back together.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That makes me feel better. I have the Haynes manual and I know there are several how-tos on FF. How long does it take? Should I set aside a full day, or is it just a few hours? Anything that could be wrong once I'm in there (like needing to replace the LCAs when changing the rear springs)?
 

·
Hatch Nation #136
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
If you have little to no experience, plan on it taking all day.

There isn't really anything that is waiting in there to bite you, but you may want to consider doing the water pump while you're in there, since it will be the easiest time to get at it. You'll have the motor mount out, so you can move the engine around to get the pump out of there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
Take a look at this writeup: http://www.focusfanatics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198819
I followed this and used my Haynes manual. First time and it took me 2 1/2hrs. The water pump can be replaced without disturbing the timing belt on the Zetec motors. It is up to you about doing it at the same time, I chose not to.
No special tools were needed also.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
sounds like you're set up pretty well. i've been thinking about timing belt too lately, though i need to check and see that it wasn't already replaced by PO. Just hit 100k a bit ago, so reading these more experienced responses helps. good luck scott!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Stupid question, but I have to change coolant if I do the water pump, correct? It's due for a coolant change anyway (actually was due 3 years ago - oops!).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
The cam/timing "BAR" & "PIN"... tried looking for these items on Advance Auto, no luck. Any timing belt kit better than another or which ones to avoid?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
I went with the Dayco kit. Gates is another that's good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
special tooling

There is a special cam shaft alignment plate thats required to align the twin cams in time with one another. YOU WILL NOT FIND THIS TOOL!! You can have a plate made if you have a machine shop close by. The Haynes manual has the specifications. When getting #1 piston at TDC, if you don't want to use the pin method, place a long screw driver in your plug port, turn the engine manually at the crankshaft, you'll notice when it gets to TDC, there will be a short pause before it starts back down, if you are lucky, there will be marks on the cam shaft gears and the cylinder head showing where the alignment of the gears should be. I know this doesn't sound like anything but a backyard mechanic's shortcut, but when you're on a limited budget, you do what you can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
lol i used a 1/4" or 1/8" chunk of metal that fit across my head into the cams, and then used a paint marker to make lines to match teeth (oh and mark the tensioner of where it was) and thats it.....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Thank you Drunkyoda! I also found these tools at Hands on Tools website for under $25
(Part number: OTC 6486 Ford Cam Tool Kit for 2.0L Zetec Engines). This includes both bar and pin.
 

·
Hatch Nation #136
Joined
·
2,043 Posts
There is a special cam shaft alignment plate thats required to align the twin cams in time with one another. YOU WILL NOT FIND THIS TOOL!! You can have a plate made if you have a machine shop close by. The Haynes manual has the specifications. When getting #1 piston at TDC, if you don't want to use the pin method, place a long screw driver in your plug port, turn the engine manually at the crankshaft, you'll notice when it gets to TDC, there will be a short pause before it starts back down, if you are lucky, there will be marks on the cam shaft gears and the cylinder head showing where the alignment of the gears should be. I know this doesn't sound like anything but a backyard mechanic's shortcut, but when you're on a limited budget, you do what you can.
They sell the bar and pin several places. I got mine from CFM.com




You don't have to do the water pump while you are in there, but you have the whole side of the engine off and it will be the easiest time to get at it. Might as well change it and avoid the hassle of doing it later.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
438 Posts
Since you are not even at 100k miles yet, I would not mess with it unless you have some overheating problems.
Like said earlier, not necessary to remove timing belt to do the water pump.
Mine is at 150k miles with no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Im thinking about buying svt car drove fine. perfect. but the engine light was on. dealer said they replaced the best, and belt pully. then mechanic told me he let enigne run with out the belt on to see how engine would run? is that good or possible? then dealer told me the engine code was oxygen sensor. and they cleared it. car has new timing belt and pully 2 differnt parts to the pully. how can you tell if valves are bent? will compression test show that the engine is good? and if i drive the car long enough will the engine light come back on. if they didnt install it right? they said they replaced the belt with a slighlty looser belt. due to the fact they belt that was on there they said was to tight? all help would greatly be appreciated. is a slightly looser belt better than a tighter belt? the car has 69,000 miles on it.
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top