[Miller88]

The clutch has felt "funny" lately ... best way I can put it. I noticed the other day that it wasn't level with the brake pedal any more and that I can pull it up about an inch .. obviously it falls right back down.

Also seems to be biting almost at the floor. It was always near the top.

 

[badazz2010focus]

yeah

 

[sailor]

Moved to General Tech Chat

Even IF the clutch master cyl. has problems (check for any seepage of fluid inside) it should return to the top. Not returning all the way is usually a sign that the return spring is broken/missing.

Got mine used, and I had to occasionally pull up on the pedal to trigger the switch so the cruise control would work. When I checked closer, only the end of the return spring caught between the mount & the carpet remained - the rest had broken off & been tossed by a prev. owner when it fell on the floor.

 

[spacemanspif]

X2 on the spring. Mine hasn't had one since I bought it this summer. Definitely leads to an inconsistent feel from the pedal. One day I'll get a replacement but it's low on my priority list since I don't think it leads to any extra wear on any parts/systems.

 

[Miller88]

I think the clutch feeling "funny" is from the colder weather and 3.5 year old brake fluid? I'm not losing anything from the master cylinder, so I don't think the slave cylinder is leaking. The MTX75 uses an internal slave, right? So can't really tell.

I'll take a look for the spring - that's under the dash right? The first 20K miles on the car are city miles, so the clutch has been pressed 10000000000 times. It still comes way above the switch point for the starter.

 

[FocusKnot]

I'll take a look for the spring - that's under the dash right?

Yes, it is under the dash.

Also, change that fluid as soon as you can...3-1/2 years is too long. The fluid is hygroscopic and that results in acid formation and rusting within system. I would use DOT 4 as it is better than DOT 3.

 

[Miller88]

I have to replace the front pads and rotors this spring so I'll be flushing the brake fluid then.

Obviously that won't flush the clutch ... but it would benefit from that? The clutch can't be bled without the special bleeder tool right?

 

[FordService]

I think the clutch feeling "funny" is from the colder weather and 3.5 year old brake fluid? I'm not losing anything from the master cylinder, so I don't think the slave cylinder is leaking. The MTX75 uses an internal slave, right? So can't really tell.

I'll take a look for the spring - that's under the dash right? The first 20K miles on the car are city miles, so the clutch has been pressed 10000000000 times. It still comes way above the switch point for the starter.

Will you be heading to your dealer to have this looked at? Don't forget to check out Ford Parts, too.

Meagan

 

[Miller88]

Looks like the return spring either broke or popped off. Can't really tell because I can't find the ends, but it doesn't seem to be connected to the clutch pedal portion - just a bracket.

Does the seat have to come out to get to it? If it's broken I'll probably call a local ford dealer (not the one that jerked me around about the motor mount) and see if I can get one.

Will you be heading to your dealer to have this looked at? Don't forget to check out Ford Parts, too.

Meagan

I'll probably grab this one myself. The car has a lot of city miles on it, I'm guessing that's what caused it.

 

[Mandroid]

Sounds like a bad slave cyl/air in the system. See if you can pump it up. I've dealt with this many times before. I don't know why my slave cylinders always fail...



EDIT: seems you already found the problem.

 

[Miller88]

I moved the car so I could open the door all the way. It's broken off, the bottom hook fell off.

No dealers are open today

 

[sailor]

I did mine when stores weren't open as well, lucky enough to have an odd drum brake return spring in the junk drawer that fit well.

Would have wondered where to hook it up without the small end stuck between the carpet & the bracket to show that the little hole in the corner of that bracket was the stationary end for the spring (top left corner of the bracket IIRC).

Hope that gives you an idea of the size spring you're looking for, the remnant alone helped me with showing the wire size of the stock spring.

 

[Miller88]

Dealer sells it as part of a whole clutch pedal assy. I'll try to see if I can get it out and see what I can find at the auto stores.

 

[badazz2010focus]

Hey Mike can you take a picture of what you're referring to I felt something pop about two To three years ago and I think it was the return spring I can pull up on the clutch pedal a little bit but not a lot.where does it connect to exactly?

 

[Miller88]

I'm about to go out and see if I can pull it out to go to a parts store to buy another one. I'll take a video.

 

[FordService]

...I'll probably grab this one myself. The car has a lot of city miles on it, I'm guessing that's what caused it.

Sounds good! I'll be here if you need me.

Meagan

 

[Miller88]

The Ford part number is: 8S4Z-7534-A , I will try another dealer tomorrow to see what they can get it for. Looks like it's going to be $40 or so.

Here's a video of where it is https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=carXy5IC53c

 

[Miller88]

So! I didn't want to pay a lot for the spring so I went to autozone and found a Dorman carburetor spring repair kit. One of the springs seems to be an exact fit ... just it's a lot longer and has no ends. Easy fix as you can just make ends for it!

I was almost ready to put it in and I can't find where it mounts? Looks like it mounts to plastic - I decided to pass on that for now.

Took two of the remaining springs and anchored them to part of the steering column support. No, it's not wrapped around the steering shaft! Clutch feels normal again and comes back up reasonably!

 

[sailor]

Better than nothing, not as stiff as stock.

That brake spring I found was a match for the stock spring wire diameter, and hooked to a hole in the corner of the mounting bracket (need to loosen the bracket to fit the spring as it's tight to the floor matting).

As long as it holds it up tight enough to work the switch for cruise it's good enough, and being up lets the clutch master cyl. self bleed as designed.

 

[Miller88]

Oh - the clutch pedal being sprung is important for self bleeding? Didn't know that!

I still can't figure out where it goes. I can find the pedal end fine. I think it might be a bit *too* much tension, but the carburetor springs are a bit stretched, so I don't expect them to last forever. Maybe by the time they wear out I can figure it ou.

I like the way the clutch feels now, though. Much better. Although it's a bit strange having it come all the way back up again.