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I cannot perfectly answer this but I'm thinking it may work let me provide some information. So I know the knuckles are different but if it is similar to my Fiesta ST the difference is the knuckle allows a more aggressive alignment. People swap the other suspension components all the time.

I have looked at replacement struts for the front on both cars, and the part numbers are the same for replacement struts non OEM. That is good that tells me the strut should fit in the knuckle.



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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
30K isn't bad, but not great either. I guess your labor (and the price of alignment) isn't worth much? Struts are cheap, the Bilstein B6 are quite nice.
I gotta go for cheap when I’m a broke college student lol. Alignment won’t be that much either. I checked into getting a new set and for the springs and struts and it’s over $400 for the complete set. Pretty sure I looked at the B6’s and they look decent.
 

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Understood about college. As a point of reference, I replaced OEM Focus w. handling package struts/shocks at "only" 45K miles due to the usual need to replace the crappy control arm bushings (did polyurethane bushings after 3 sets of Ford control arms) that always tear. I wasn't going to waste an alignment on 45K mile struts. Sure enough, the replacement struts were far better-damped with noticeably improved ride and handling.

I question the value of installing 30K mile used struts. Might be better off using limited funds to replace torn front control arm bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Understood about college. As a point of reference, I replaced OEM Focus w. handling package struts/shocks at "only" 45K miles due to the usual need to replace the crappy control arm bushings (did polyurethane bushings after 3 sets of Ford control arms) that always tear. I wasn't going to waste an alignment on 45K mile struts. Sure enough, the replacement struts were far better-damped with noticeably improved ride and handling.

I question the value of installing 30K mile used struts. Might be better off using limited funds to replace torn front control arm bushings?
I’ll eventually work my way to them but currently my whole handling aspect is fine. Ive been wandering around on Facebook marketplace and stumbled across them and it seemed like a good deal. Even when up at 110 Mph my steering wheel has no vibration or shaking which is fairly impressive to me
 

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I’ll eventually work my way to them but currently my whole handling aspect is fine. Ive been wandering around on Facebook marketplace and stumbled across them and it seemed like a good deal. Even when up at 110 Mph my steering wheel has no vibration or shaking which is fairly impressive to me
Use your eyes, do a visual inspection. It's easy to see. The ol' butt dyno won't necessarily pick up the slow deterioration. These bushings tear a lot, I would be very surprised if your 80K mile car did not have this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Use your eyes, do a visual inspection. It's easy to see. The ol' butt dyno won't necessarily pick up the slow deterioration. These bushings tear a lot, I would be very surprised if your 80K mile car did not have this problem.
Yeah I definitely will. I didn’t know they tore so easily or I would’ve checked before. Especially since I drive at around 400 miles a week. Would you mind putting a picture or link to the ones you recommend?
 

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There are some options like camber and caster adjustment parts, but I just used the standard replacement bushings in the second two links. The improvement was dramatic, the front end doesn't deflect under load.

If your bushings are torn (look for a crack in the "web" between center sleeve and the outer), you need this fix more than struts. Although I wouldn't disagree you probably need struts at 80K miles, 200K shock driver's posting here notwithstanding, LOL. Not to bum you out, but I wouldn't align an 80K mile ball joint, either. You have to prioritize college student money, some day soon it won't be such a problem.

 

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You don't align a ball joint. The only thing that is adjustable on the front is the toe without modification.
My brother has a 2005 with almost 300,000 miles on it original suspension except for the sway bar end links. I know crazy it could definitely use an overhaul but not my car. Still drives straight though, even tire wear too.
 

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No you do not. I have done alignments professionally trained on a very high-end piece of equipment. The only thing that is adjustable on the front is the toe.

Please explain how you align a ball joint.
I always suggest for an individual to get an alignment after replacing suspension or steering components. But the only thing I'm actually adjusting on the front of the car is toe via the tie rod.

I am hoping we are just having a misunderstanding of words, and you don't actually believe a technician is adjusting the ball joint on a alignment rack. On a car that has a adjustable rear suspension you should start on the back of the car and then proceed to the front.
 

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No you do not. I have done alignments professionally trained on a very high-end piece of equipment. The only thing that is adjustable on the front is the toe.
I think you're being deliberately obtuse. Any component replacement in the suspension has the potential to change alignment. That's why you align the car after doing suspension work. Will a ball joint change it much? Probably not, you don't know exactly how much until you check the alignment.

I don't think it's useful for you to post shortcuts and sloppy practices without describing them as such. It's great you saved a few bucks running to 200K miles on destroyed shocks and skipping alignments, but there are right ways and wrong ways to do things. Any movement/replacement of strut mount plates, control arm bushings, ball joints, or tie rods affects the one adjustment these cars have - toe. More adjustment is possible with aftermarket parts if desired, but movement anywhere will change toe.

If you replace the control arms, the toe will change. Even though the control arms have no adjustment.
 
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