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Discussion Starter #1
i have a 2002 ranger 2.3 duratec with the closed Deck, yes i know its closed because i had swapped out the internals for, hyper eutectic pistons, forged rods and forged crank, i currently advanced the intake cam asfar as possible then backed off 4 degrees and at 7200 rpm no slapped valves, i changed out the springs for much stronger springs, the exaust is advanced 10 degrees, with about 48 total overlap. i have a gsp .5 a/r turbo that i rebuilt with some garret parts and polished up nicely, also have a mishimoto intercooler, what cams should i buy i want to making power at about 2800 to 5000 rpm with the turbo, currently my build with m5od and 4.10 8.8 posi, p235 75r16 goodyear wranglers on the chassis dyno makes about 192hp at 6800 rpm and 203 lbs torque at 5300 rpm, i have the quartehorse and jaybird that i have been using to tune, and the engine bay has scoop to vent out a lot of hot air, and the intake tube comes in from the driver side rather than the passenger side as normal, vauum ranges from 14.8-16.66 at idle to about 27.33 max at wot with the measuring equipment the dyno guys have, ignition timing is 34 advanced at 2600 and when vacuum reaches over 22 then retards to about 18 degrees, what the dyno guy said was good, im still on stock injectors and anymore fuel and its running rich, that where the turbo comes in, what injectors and what cams should i buy, ill snap some pics and a video for you guys, im having a lot of fun with my project, what do you guys think and where should i go from here?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
For that working RPM stay with stock cams for Turbo

Tom
ok sounds good and thank you,i believe from stock the cams can be advanced about 42 degrees without touching the valves and pistons together, ill go back and see since the exhaust is for sure only 10, ill just line the two where the intake is flat and go from there, is there anything i should focus on when tuning aside from keeping close to 14 afr and about 13.2 wich is my current max fuel without pinging, no the knock sensor does not touch timing since i use an msd box just tells me when its ping/knock. at the track i managed 13.6 quarter mile at 102 mph. anything i could engine management wise to bump those seconds some more and bump my low end torque for a better giddy up
 

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Discussion Starter #7
48 deg Int from Exh ? Not sure what that means

Tom
total intake advance is about 43.5 degrees advanced from oem, the exhaust cam is 10 degrees advanced, i found my booklet where i wrote the numbers down, the truck does not use VVT and i take it to the dyno every time i make changes to see up or down in hp and torque, under what header would i find the EGR and the stupid intake flaps, im using tuner pro RT
 

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Discussion Starter #10
we got the valve cover off and we took 5 measurements with the 1 cyl at tdc, just when the gauge stops rising, the intake cam was advanced 24 degrees, the exhaust is advanced 6, we made sure to look it over the five times and idk where or why i saw in the 40s, when you said that i look at my protractor and was slowly realizing my mistake, sorry about that, but i made sure my friend checked 5 times after me and we both agreed on 24 for the intake. thank you for informing me, ill start getting two person measures from now on, on the bright side i can move it an extra 3 degrees and just after 3 it bumps the valve and piston together
 

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Not trying to bust your balls but 24 deg is still insanely high Deg of cam timing

You got TDC , Pin in or used TDC , put cams in , cam gears on , chain on tightened it all up then you have the cam gears adjusted 24 deg and 6 deg ?

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes, that is correct, i used a straw i lubed up and when it stopped rotating i had my brother let go of the clutch, i didnt buy the expensive kit for it but i do know that the pin stops the #1 cyl to be timed and that the cams line up with the notches in the back, has a brand new chain, fully tensioned and what we did was losses the sprocket bolt on the intake first took my recent wrench and rotated it about 4 degrees at a time tightened the bolt and rotated the engine a full 360, when i couldnt rotate the engine i softly backed the pulley back and retarded my cam 4 degrees wich i am happy with after about 4300 rpm it builds its power and i watch the map sensor read about 22 vacuum to about 31.66 using the map sensor, im still cleaning up my tune as it has its idle surges due to only having between 12 and 16 hg vacuum and trying to roll from idle just makes the truck buck back and forth very harshly, cruising below 1200 and attempting accelerate is a lost cause but when i iron out this, im looking into the cam phaser on a mz3 or focus, try and get about 18 Hg min avg vacuum, is there any particular year i should avoid, when i finalize this profile where could i upload my ROM i like the rom in the sense of power but lacking in fuel economy department (17 city 23 hwy)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not trying to bust your balls but 24 deg is still insanely high Deg of cam timing

You got TDC , Pin in or used TDC , put cams in , cam gears on , chain on tightened it all up then you have the cam gears adjusted 24 deg and 6 deg ?

Tom
no pin, used a straw for tdc as soon as straw stopped moving up stopped rotating and had my brother release the clutch and made adjustments in above post
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Not trying to bust your balls but 24 deg is still insanely high Deg of cam timing

You got TDC , Pin in or used TDC , put cams in , cam gears on , chain on tightened it all up then you have the cam gears adjusted 24 deg and 6 deg ?

Tom
do you know of any forum that has tuning info for VVT and the VVT solenoid?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
you mean VCT kinda the same thing but not really , what are you trying to do ?

Tom
Variable cam timing or valve pretty much the same just when the valves open / close, anything below 1200 rpm and the ranger stalls because of the obsurb amount of overlap but with the timing can have it overlap toward the end of the power and and make power while being street capable without revving too much and having bottom end torque
 

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Discussion Starter #20
What software you tuning with ? What PCM ?

Tom
I'm using the OEM pcm for a 2005 or 2004 ranger whichever one because it doesnt have the flaps in the manifold and don't need to have a programmed key, I'm using tuner pro RT and the quarter horse to edit the ROM and flash to the pcm after testing from the quarterhorse
 
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