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Discussion Starter #1
I've been building this car for a few years. It originally was supposed to be a stock turbo car. Well that never happened. I started going buying things and one thing led to another.

The car is a 02 zx3, started out as a bare bones 2.0 with the auto tragic. I blew up two of those and found a Svt conversion for a good deal. I went that route for a few years before wanting more.

The motor consists of:
Je 9.6:1 pistons
Cosworth rods
All arp hardware
Clevite h series main and rod bearings
Cfm billet oil pump
Cat cams turbo cams
80# injectors
A walbro 400lph pump, possibly duals
Tru bendz 3" exhaust
Cometic .066 head gasket
Full port and polish
Vct delete with adjustable cam gears

The drive train has a torsen, 275's for the front, Lakewood traction bars.

Still need:
Turbo (gtx3076 with a tial housing)
Manifolds
Catch can


I'm sure I'm forgetting some. Fernando will be tuning it. Tonight I got the head bolted on and torqued down along with the cams. That's where I called it a night and how it sits right now.



 

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Discussion Starter #4

It's timed now, the belt looks like it should be a little tighter though, it is don't by the book though so I don't know. I've rolled it over two complete revolutions and everything seems good.
 

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Looks good to me, the tension is going to have some give to it by design, as long as everything is lined up after cranking it over then your all good to go. Though I'd turn it over numerous myself just to be sure, that's what I do when I do timing belts. Two rotations is never enough for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ordered stuff to make a fuel rail tonight. I still need freeze plugs and an oil pan gasket but I got to install a bung for the return line before I put it on
 

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The bad thing about performance cams is that for N/A, it need lots of overlap to generate lots of power. If supercharged, the N/A cams would work great there too. Turbos however are finicky when it comes to stuff like that. Lots of overlap causes excessive EGT, and that has a tendency to melt turbine blades. Not saying it will happen, but it is something that should be discussed with the engine builder or tuner. I see that you are using turbo grinds, so this should be less of a concern for you, but someone else who is reading this build thread for their own build should be aware of this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
N/a will only be to break it in cause I need a car to drive now and until I can gather the rest of the turbo parts. It was never meant to be a n/a motor, just what life has dealt me right now and I'm making the best of it.
 

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The bad thing about performance cams is that for N/A, it need lots of overlap to generate lots of power. If supercharged, the N/A cams would work great there too. Turbos however are finicky when it comes to stuff like that. Lots of overlap causes excessive EGT, and that has a tendency to melt turbine blades. Not saying it will happen, but it is something that should be discussed with the engine builder or tuner. I see that you are using turbo grinds, so this should be less of a concern for you, but someone else who is reading this build thread for their own build should be aware of this.
I dont agree , boost is boost , the engine/cams dont know if the 10psi is from a SC or a turbo so boost with excessive overlap issue would be the same with both
Lots of overlap allows the fresh incoming air/fuel to leave through an open exh valve more then its an issue with EGT , EGT is easly controlled with a tune where overlap isnt but can be delt with some with adjusting the cam gears to lessen the overlap , I still prefer stock cams with boost for the street/350hp

Tom
 

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It's timed now, the belt looks like it should be a little tighter though, it is don't by the book though so I don't know. I've rolled it over two complete revolutions and everything seems good.
Belt tension looks about

Tom
 

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It's timed now, the belt looks like it should be a little tighter though, it is don't by the book though so I don't know. I've rolled it over two complete revolutions and everything seems good.
I would put a dial indicator on the timing belt and turn the engine over and make sure the Intake cam gear isnt moving up and down , the vct eliminator ( 3 of them ) I have had to trash because the gear was moving up and down , wouldnt hurt to check it now why the engine is out

I see you used the old SVT oil cooler , did you clean it VERY good , any trash still in it goes straight into your new engine , I have seen many engines go bad because they were not cleaned good

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'll check it, thanks for the heads up Tom. Also I plan on more than 350hp. I am shooting for 450-500 on pump gas. I don't think that's unreasonable.
 

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I couldnt go past 12 PSI on pump gas without knock. E85 was silent up to 19 psi, which is as far as I was willing to go with the crappy transmission it was bolted to.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If it knocks I'll back it off but I'm really only looking for 20-23psi. I want to break 500 on pump gas. If I can't so be it. I do wanna be safe.
 

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How much BOOST lb's you plan on running on 9.6 compression? I would imagine anything over 15lbs would be a delicate tuning issue.
Not at all , I have many 300-350HP SVT and ZX3 running around with over 15psi , My SVT makes 326HP and 331 tq on 93 on the stock factory engine and I have gone to 400HP on many Foci with no issues on 93 octane

Tom
 

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SO if I build a 10.2 to 1 Compression Engine , similar ratio to the SVT Motor, I can run a 16lb boosting supercharger with no issue and minimum timing retard?

I keep hearing the Powerworks likes higher compression (10-11 CR) but I am also told by others that I should keep the compression to Stock ZX3 (9.6) or lower.

What is the optimum balance of compression and retard, for the HP best power, given the constant of 15psi boost.
 

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SO if I build a 10.2 to 1 Compression Engine , similar ratio to the SVT Motor, I can run a 16lb boosting supercharger with no issue and minimum timing retard?
Your going to have to run the amount of timing retard it takes to keep the engine safe and that changes with boost , engine , octane etc

I keep hearing the Powerworks likes higher compression (10-11 CR) but I am also told by others that I should keep the compression to Stock ZX3 (9.6) or lower.
With the SC choices out there for the Focus you can get away with a little higher compression then with a turbo , with the PW and running high boost your going to have issues regardless of compression , the PW is a poor design and the heat exchanges is just short of worthless this creates a problem when you try to do high boost

What is the optimum balance of compression and retard, for the HP best power, given the constant of 15psi boost.
No one can answer that there are to many variables

Tom
 
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