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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone playing with different cam profiles? I am looking at this option and I see Crane cams has a line of cams for the D20. Trying to decide between the most mild and the next step up. I would only have CAI and exhaust, and not planning on a whole lot of racing, just like to know I can drop it down on the highway and actually go somewhere. Thoughts anyone? Not entirely sure how applicable the cam stuff from the 302 is to the duratec, so yeah, let me know what you think.



P.S.

If anyone has any before and after dyno charts that would be excellent.
 

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I've driven/owned a 2.3 with Crane 1's, 2's, & 3's

2's and above REQUIRE you replace the valve springs and it's also a good idea to fl cut your pistons or rebuild your bottom end.

I have crane 1's in the car right now that are pretty heavily adjusted, the car idles pretty pissed off but runs exceptionally well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
With the 1's do you notice any lag down low as compared to stock? Also, how long does it take to tune the cams with adjustable gears, assuming I go with one of the SCT tunes from marcy? Just wondering how much dyno tuning I would have to pay for. Thanks.
 

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I honestly can't say, for that you're going to have to go to the source.

There isn't any loss of low end torque, the thing is actually a torque monster.
 

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aero_student said:
I honestly can't say, for that you're going to have to go to the source.

There isn't any loss of low end torque, the thing is actually a torque monster.
Wow, have you ever took that thing on a track?

zoooom!
 

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I've never taken it to the 1/4 but I have had it on several road courses, Buttonwillow, Streets of Willow, and Pahrump.
 

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~10hp
 

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so what exactly needs to be reworked with the stage two cams? I plan on going that route in the future.
 

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you'll need valve reliefs in your pistons and springs and retainers, at the leaset if i remember correctly.
 

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is it a gnraly enough of a cam that would require dual cam springs, or are a stiffer single springs sufficient?


Also what is involved with making valve relief's in a piston, is it something I can do, or is it better for a machine shop to take care of that?
 

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You need to do valve springs and tune the car. You CAN NOT adjust them much with stock pistons though.
 

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99bajakid said:
is it a gnraly enough of a cam that would require dual cam springs, or are a stiffer single springs sufficient?


Also what is involved with making valve relief's in a piston, is it something I can do, or is it better for a machine shop to take care of that?
This ain't no pushrod motor dude. There's no room under the "cup" for dual springs. Stiffer ratio springs are required to keep the cam from floating at high rpm. BTW, we have what would be equated to a solid lifter, which is part of the noise you hear in the 20 seconds after you start your motor. You really should go check out a Haynes or other manual to see a pic of the valvetrain. It's very simple.

As far as what works for a 302 being applied to this motor... well lift, duration, base overlap are all the same. The biggest difference is that since we have two cams- we can change the overlap/lobe spread if we wish. Cam timing still works the same as it would in a V8, although a little simpler process, and cams are MUCH easier to install- you just have to hold tension on the chain and keep the crank from moving.
 

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haha thanks for the info! You're right I know more about pushrod v6 and v8's than i do about these 4-cylinder engines... :D I guess there's alot for me to learn.

thanks again.
 

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2 questions about cams:

(1) how is the install, does it have DIY potentail, or it is better to take it to a shop
(2) I have heard that you need to get a tune if you do cams, thoughts on that....
 

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99bajakid said:
is it a gnraly enough of a cam that would require dual cam springs, or are a stiffer single springs sufficient?
Yesterday I was at the marcymotorsport.com and noticed the following:

Single or dual linear springs are available to suit even the most demanding racer. Lightweight Titanium retainers are included in the kit. Single spring and retainer packages for applications up to 8000 RPM. Dual spring and retainer packages for forced induction or use over 8000 RPM.

Hope that helps.
 

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Question: How bad is the drivability between a stage II and a III I want the most usable power possible, and be able to drive it around town, I mean when you say it's a rough idle, call dumb if you must, but what exactly do you mean?
 

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More from marcymotorsport.com:

STAGE-I: MILD DAILY STREET USE: Idle-6500RPM
Good Idle, good low end and strong mid range power. OK for automatic or manual trans. For max HP use low restriction air intake and free flow exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers- Not Required. Use stock compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Recommended, but not mandatory.

STAGE-II: PERFORMANCE STREET / OPEN TRACK / DRAG RACE USE: 1500-7000RPM
Fair Idle, good low to mid range and strong top end power. Largest grind for automatic trans. For max HP use low restriction air intake, 1.75" header and 2.5" exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers Required. Use 9.0-11.0:1 compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Required.

STAGE-III: HOT STREET / OPEN TRACK / DRAG RACE USE: 2500-7500RPM
Rough Idle, strong mid range and strong top end power. Manual transmission ONLY. For max HP use oversize air intake and air meter, intake manifold, head work, 1.875" header and 2.75" exhaust. Valve Springs and Retainers Required. Use 10.0-12.0:1 compression ratio. ECU Re-Flash Required.
 
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