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Discussion Starter #1
Used a bigger piston compressor for the front brake, maybe 1/2 inch bigger, the rubber things got a little distorted and out of place, is it ok? didn't damage anything right https://i.imgur.com/63wNAtY.jpg

5,10 min after that I depressed brake pedal, and the rubber thing looks normal after the piston is out.

Got this tool set, couldn't find the proper size for the FoST front brakes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F0VMMSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

After brake pads are installed, press brake pedal a few times, Do I need to turn on the car? or with it off? any difference? thanks for your help
 

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Looks good to me....Good idea to flush the brake fluid also.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, yeah I did the other side and when I compressed it the rubber boot looked the same.

Yup gonna change out brake fluid and engine oil too!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, yeah I did the other side and when I compressed it the rubber boot looked the same. I guess that's just how the rubber boot look like, I thought it will be nice and even and thought I damaged something heh. (Not a very good DIY'er)

Hawk HP+ the inboard pad was really hard to put it in the piston, the 3 spring things were really tight so I used piston compressor to push it in, did I damage anything? maybe a circular mark on the brake pad and no big deal?

So when I was trying to bleed the brake fluid, I checked rear right brake bleeder valve and when I took off the nipple it had brake fluid in it. It's not supposed to have brake fluid in it right? And can't be the same fluid from almost a year ago when I bled it? the other 3 nipples were dry. Also the bottom end of the inboard brake pad is about 4.5mm left while other sides all got 6mm left. valve is leaking?!?!? Getting ready for a HPDE need to get it fixed! Either it's not tighten enough or I might have damaged it the last time I bled it, it was at a weird angle to tighten/loosen the valve.

However I didn't see any drip near the bleeder valve, fluid was inside the nipple didn't seem to have any around it. Last time I bled it was a year ago and for a year the brakes seems ok on the weekends (only drive it on the weekends and not that often) And with the car off I depressed the brake pedal 4,5 times and didn't see any brake fluid out of the valve.


Oh so if it's not tighten enough just tighten it, but if it's broken how do I test it and make it leak? turn on the car and depress the brake pedal see if it leaks?
 

Thats What She Said
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How does the fluid level look? I you are bleeding the system (which if doing HPDE you should do with a good fluid) I would look at changing your bleed screws over to Russell speed bleeders. makes things a whole lot easier. If the cap is that right then it could be from last time. brake fluid does not evaporate so would stay in the cap if its a snug tight fit.

likely did not damage anything. I always use the old brake pad to compress the piston or as a backing plate if tryign to get the new pad "snaped" in.

if you had a leak you should see lower brake fluid (i have heard the MK3's are really sensitive to brake fluid levels). the pad ware I would say is normal to have a bit of difference. as your driving around and the ABS works and the torque vectoring and everything else on these cars you may see a little un even ware. 1.5mm I would say would be normal. not sure what the manufacture tolerances are for the pads, could have started out 0.5mm different.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The fluid looks good, almost new since I don't drive it much. The fluid level I am not too sure, didn't check it much and that's a bad habit. But before I compressed the front brake piston in I opened the reservoir and vaguely remembered it's near the max level. Not very sure about the level but after I compressed the 1st piston the fluid was 1/2 inch from coming out. So maybe 3/4 inch above max level. And the old pads in that brake were down to 4.5mm and 5.5mm (Not sure if this helps anything just some additional info)

Yeah I am using TYP 200 for HPDE. Hmm russell speed bleeders I think I heard that a few times before, will check it out when I get a chance. I use motive power bleeder and it's so far so good for me.

When I took off the nipple cap I didn't feel any fluid at the bottom, fluid only inside the cap. Didn't see any drip around sway bar and other parts. Going to check the valve see if it's loose or anything, then change the brake fluid.

MK3 are very sensitive to brake fluid levels? Will check fluid more often then!! Can you elaborate on that would like to know more.

The pad wear of 1.5mm difference, just to double check it's the right rear wheel, the bottom of the inboard pad is 1.5mm less than top, the outboard pad is 6mm for both top and bottom part. (I measure top and bottom of the pads) That's normal?

Thanks so much man I feel a lot better now, was thinking it's leaking and it would be a headache as HPDE is approaching. I think the fluid level was good, maybe just fluid from the last bleed.

(If brake fluid is low I need to press the pedal much further right?)
 

Thats What She Said
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Mk3's are more sensitive in that the brake warning light will turn on sooner. the Mk1 and think Mk2 you could be below the low on the fill line and it will still not turn on the light. for Mk3's once it gets close to the low line (so when your brakes need replacing) the light will come on.

if brake fluid is low but still to the point it is not putting air in the system the brake pedal should feel the same. the onlyt thing that should change the brake pedal distance is if there is air in the line.

For the pad thickness I guess you can check the caliper slides and make sure it feels equal force to slide both. I think there is a company that makes some awesome replacements that remove the slop in the slide pins.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mk3's are more sensitive in that the brake warning light will turn on sooner. the Mk1 and think Mk2 you could be below the low on the fill line and it will still not turn on the light. for Mk3's once it gets close to the low line (so when your brakes need replacing) the light will come on.

if brake fluid is low but still to the point it is not putting air in the system the brake pedal should feel the same. the onlyt thing that should change the brake pedal distance is if there is air in the line.

For the pad thickness I guess you can check the caliper slides and make sure it feels equal force to slide both. I think there is a company that makes some awesome replacements that remove the slop in the slide pins.
caliper slide pins how hard to tighten them? it's 7mm allen so you can't use tq wrench, I just use both hands and give it pretty good torque,sometimes it leaves a long mark on my hands heh. That's not too much tq right.

Well I just got done bleeding the brake fluid, that one valve seems ok so probably no leak. But when I opened the valve it leaks around the valve, when I close the valve it stops, I remember the same thing happened the last time I bled it. I guess it's just crappy valves. (also this time I got quickjack so I can see around the valves better)

I thought TYP 200 is blue, but the color is very close to my old fluid!!!! It's been one year but only 2300 miles or so so it's pretty clean. I think old fluid is a little more yellowish than new, new fluid it's kinda no color in the hose. So I just looked at the color and stop accordingly. So RR I bled out 350mm, RL 175mm, FR 100 and also 100 for FL, is that about right? If some old fluid is still there and the job is 85% let's say, should be ok or?

When I opened the valve to around 1/4 turn to 1/3 I see tiny things rushing through the hose, if I almost close it and just let a small bit coming out I don't see those, are those tiny bubble of air from opening the valve too much?!?!?!?!

When I was bleeding the front ones I turned car to accessory and turned the steering wheel to better access the bleeding valve. Turning on the car didn't affect the bleeding process right? (Didn't turn it on and drive it, just to accessory)

Thanks for your help!
 

Thats What She Said
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caliper slide pins how hard to tighten them? it's 7mm allen so you can't use tq wrench, I just use both hands and give it pretty good torque,sometimes it leaves a long mark on my hands heh. That's not too much tq right.
Its not how tight they are torque wise its how smooth they slide. if one slider binds or does not have full range because of crap in the slider you may get this kind of pad ware. as the above poster said you can get sockets with allen heads on them. I don't torque mine down other than by a snug that will do kind of "ugga" torque method.

Well I just got done bleeding the brake fluid, that one valve seems ok so probably no leak. But when I opened the valve it leaks around the valve, when I close the valve it stops, I remember the same thing happened the last time I bled it. I guess it's just crappy valves. (also this time I got quickjack so I can see around the valves better)
Sounds like the threads are just worn. this sometimes can make bleeding difficult since you will have air come in around the threads.

I thought TYP 200 is blue, but the color is very close to my old fluid!!!! It's been one year but only 2300 miles or so so it's pretty clean. I think old fluid is a little more yellowish than new, new fluid it's kinda no color in the hose. So I just looked at the color and stop accordingly. So RR I bled out 350mm, RL 175mm, FR 100 and also 100 for FL, is that about right? If some old fluid is still there and the job is 85% let's say, should be ok or?

It use to be blue but a long time ago. DOT forced them to make the color the "normal" color when selling in the US due to rules or laws about the color of the fluid. guess it was difficult for people inspecting or servicing cars to make sure it was correct fluid. Your doing HPDE, guessing your not on full racing slicks. I would say a yearly "flush" where you put a few cups of fluid through the system each year is more than enough. If you start experiencing brake fade or your pedal travel is further you have boiled your brakes. Have a spare bottle of Ford Heavy Duty DOT brake fluid or the O'rileys Auto Brake Best Select DOT 4 fluid on hand. Those two brake fluids are actually really good brake fluid and can easily be bought at a low $/oz.

When I opened the valve to around 1/4 turn to 1/3 I see tiny things rushing through the hose, if I almost close it and just let a small bit coming out I don't see those, are those tiny bubble of air from opening the valve too much?!?!?!?!
I would say yes or old / bad bleeders that are now leaking past the threads. something you don't want. Thus why I would recommend the Russell Speed Bleeders... I have them on both my Foci and my Jeep and soon to be my Explorer once I need to service the brakes or fluid.

When I was bleeding the front ones I turned car to accessory and turned the steering wheel to better access the bleeding valve. Turning on the car didn't affect the bleeding process right? (Didn't turn it on and drive it, just to accessory)
Nope. with a vacuum pump bleeder system you could even have car running and bleed the system (I think) since your not using the brakes so the brake booster is not doing any thing so there would be no pressure in the system. you would not want to use the pedal while trying to bleed because a low pressure system becomes a very high pressure system of hundreds of PSI.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sounds like the threads are just worn. this sometimes can make bleeding difficult since you will have air come in around the threads.







I would say yes or old / bad bleeders that are now leaking past the threads. something you don't want. Thus why I would recommend the Russell Speed Bleeders... I have them on both my Foci and my Jeep and soon to be my Explorer once I need to service the brakes or fluid.


.
So the valve threads are bad/worn , and crappy bleeders that's causing small air bubble when I use motive power bleeder. But the power bleeder was pushing fluid etc out so maybe air didn't get in? or did it. I have yet to test drive the car , going to do it today. Man the car only got 3 brake jobs so far, 1st time was in dealer, and I did the 2nd and 3rd time, the 2nd time it was leaking around the threads when I open it but didn't leak when I closed it. I guess it's really crappy valves or dealer messed them up the first time. After HPDE gonna get those Russell speed bleeders. Actually all 4 leaks around the threads when I open the valves! Oh the rear 2 when I bled it it comes out really slow, like only 1/3 of the tube got fluid coming out. the front 2 valves was full tube of fluid. motive bleeder was at 14 to 15 psi so...I guess air was around the threads that's why rears was bleeding so slowly? Rear 2 were really slow.

Nice, going to look into Allen/Hex head sockets to torque it to spec, thanks
 

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you have the car infront of you, you shoudl be able to tell what is going on better than someone 600 miles away from you.

Sounds like the set/bleed screws are loose from your decription.

Not familar with your bleeding tool. I prefer to allways pull fluid through the system instead of pushing it out. Not sure if it really matters, you want to just avoid getting air in the lines so how ever you do that.

The Russel speed bleeders have a ball and spring to prevent any air getting in the system so may not work if your tyring to push the fluid in to the caliper, you will have to pull vacuum or use the pedal to build pressure in the system. but because of the extra little check valve you greatly reduce the risk of air getting in the system between pumping the brakes or using other tools and when you tighten the bleeder.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ok I drove it for 20 min or so, brake fluid seemed ok, if there is air in it I need to depress the pedal much further and it will be soft right? I tap it a tiny bit and it brakes right away, at times it seemed kinda soft but others times it seemed ok. Will drive my roomate's car when he gets home and compare.

After the drive I check the valve in question and there is no leak, it was the fluid from the last bled, you were right! checked other 3 valves and no leak when closed, only when open. Need to replace those later.

Man with hawk hp plus it really brakes hard, I have yet to do the bedding. A few time I brake the way I usually do and it really stops, and really sensitive! Way better than stock, can't wait to try it with pilot sport 4S that I put on 3 months ago!

Checked brake fluid and it's right at max level, the same level as it were before. Just need to find a long deserted road and bed in the pads. Rear is all stock and front rotors are stock too.

Will still check fluid levels at the event, thanks for the help, had so many questions heh. Feels good to do it yourself instead of the shop. Saved a bunch of money too!
 

Thats What She Said
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They times I have experienced boiled brakes (getting air in the line) or after major brake line work the pedal is squishy. the travel will be whats refereed to as piston slap. whe you let off the brake the way the square cut gasket on the piston works helps pull the piston back a bit. And then the fact that it floats on the slide pins can cause the caliper to move around and open the piston gap more. if you watch touring racing or track racing you may notice that people will do a very light tap on the brakes if there was a long straight or they haven't used their brakes in a bit. That's to bring the caliper and piston in a tight tolerance and provide known good braking.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Now that you mentioned it, I remembered the pedal feel when I boiled the brake fluid. It's really soft like sponge, squishy. This TYP 200 doesn't feel like that so the bled was good then! But do different brake fluid have different pedal feel? They Should feel all the same right? This one feels kinda different, maybe because I have 2 variables- the brake fluid and new front pads. It feels like it's really sensitive, you tap a little bit it brakes right away, then when you apply more pressure you kind of feel nothing or soft (but it's still working), then when you apply more then there is a good amount of pedal pressure. But I did pad bedding and it's all good, braked right away it felt pretty good, pretty strong pads.

When I let go of steering wheel and apply brake, car will pull to the right a little bit, I think tire pressure was 1 psi off between the front 2. It pulls to the right a tiny bit maybe it's nothing.

Fluids all good, next would be clean the car up!

Costco filled the tires with nitrogen, last HPDE I lowered the tire pressure to 32 then after session is done it's right at 36psi. I wonder how many psi nitrogen will go up. Will test and see! It's going to be a lot of fun.

Yeah car is pretty much all ready, thanks again for your help.
 

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no problem and hope its help. Its just been one guys experience and not on a Mk3 at that...

New Fluid "should" all feel the same as the compressibility of the fluid when Dry and has air should be the same. I use TYP-200 I have been thinking about going up to the fancy stuff since my car is more dedicated now. But as you get more fancy it does need to be exchanged more because it draws moisture at a higher rate.

I would recommend https://damondmotorsports.com/products/focus-st-brake-caliper-bushings?variant=12771216883754 next time you are looking at the brakes. This should further help with the feel and less caliper deflection which could have been causing the pad ware being a little un even. I wish they made these for the Mk1...

Also for the braking it can do that also depending on Toe and other factors.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Is it a track car?! Fancy brake fluid for the track?!

You got those ? Interesting it says improved braking response and feel and more. This is just my 2nd HPDE, got a lot of driver mod before parts mod, but this one looks intersting.

After brake pads install, press the brake pedal a few times before the 1st drive so there is brake, but is that with car on or off.

So my FoST needs 91 octane min, and if I get a bad tank of 91 and go on track and flooring it and higher rpm etc. That's not good right, or does it pull timing and reduced hp there is nothing to worry about. I can get some 100 octane or torco and mix it up, but got other things and I got a lot of driver mod to do first.

I am afraid for the brake fluid bled.... I think I did it correctly, have done it once before, but it something were to go wrong. (test drove 3x and all seems fine) if something is wrong with brake fluid will it gradually losing braking power , won't just all of a sudden I lose braking power right.
 

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You are over thinking it. Go have fun.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey man ran the car hard all weekend long, not a single problem, drove there, drove back, repeated the next day. Fluids are all good, brakes are all good. Wasn't too confident before since it's my second time doing those and it's for track racing, but helpful and patient people from online really gave me a boost!

This time I passed a lot of people in my group, last time I didn't pass anyone, this time it was like 5,6 cars that I passed, some were 50k to 100k cars. I think it's the tires pilot sport 4S, last time I had stock eagle F1 symmetric but they were 4.5 years old. I guess they were way too old for track, because I didn't improve much other than watched youtube videos, so it's mostly tires I think. Tires really made a big difference I guess. Gonna track it again before tires get too old!

I don't think T/C or Stability kicked in once, didn't see the light at all. I cornered it really hard, tire were squeaking a little then I was afraid to push it more. Next time gonna try to push it and see when does stability kicks in, then I will know the limit. I had 39 psi front and 37 psi rear (hot for both), it did pretty good.

Man it was a lot of fun, maintain the car well and it will drive well too.
 
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