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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Figure I would post a pic and explain how cheap and fast this was to build.

I only have one pic right now... but this is the splash shield I built in an hour for a total cost of $14.00 and thats with buying a saw, $8.00 with just he materials. Not sure if this qualifies as a How to.. Ill let you guys choose on that one.

The reason I did this is with the new AEM Dry Flow filters... ironicly hold water WAY worse than the cotton gauze filters did. They are a felt like material so if you get them really wet, they build up so much water in them that a heavy mist is going into your engine... NO GOOD. My car has been running rough ever since it started raining cause of that. So to fix this I was either going to take the CAI off, or build a shield. And for under $8.00 I got one whipped up quite nicely.



What I did was pick up a 1/8th inch thick peice of lexan, and a 5 ft aluminum angle stock. I also picked up a baggie of stainless steel screws and washers. I wanted to use stainless hardware because I know normal steel would rust away and look nasty in no time. The lexan cost a whooping $3.00 and is 11x14. the Aluminum stock was only $2.38.

You take the Lexan and hold it up so that it sits on top of the bottom lip on the actual bumper cover (not the rubber air dam lip). You want to make it so it fits around the curve of the wheel arch cover, so you get a more complete coverage. Just take a marker, and a hack saw and go at it.

I used a 4" long peice of Aluminum angle stock to make a bracket to attach the lexan to the wheel cowling right forward of the front wheel. I anchored it to the wheel cowling with 2 screws into the bracket, and then 2 screws up from the lexan. Then to give it more stablility and to make sure it wont fly off at speed, I took a 1.5ft long lenght of angle stock and made a brace to anchor it to the mounting bolt for the CAI. I attached the bar then to the lexan wiht 2 more screws.

There is still water that will get past the shield if you hit a BIG puddle... but thats because it comes streaming around the side of the wheel cowling, and splashes off of stuff in the engine bay.

But I took it on a test run tonight and it stayed relatively dry compared to how wet the filter used to get.

To remove it all you do is unscrew the 2 screws near the filter and remove the 10mm nut on the bracket end, and you can swing it out of the way.

Edit: since posting this I have noticed that in rain the filter still gets wet enough to cause the engine some discomfort... so I have remove the AEM CAI and really dont regret it.
 

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awesome! nice work, wish i had one of those when i had my CAI. Someone should sticky this for future reference.
 

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Been thinking about doing the same thing myself , no i have something to model it after.
 

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That defets the purpos of CAI. If your filter is properly maintained, your not gonna suck water up from splashing on wet roads. Just don't be stupid and drive through a river of a pudle and you'll be fine. ;) Befor I was S/Ced I drove from NC to FL to WI in 3 days, 90% of the trip was rain, my AEM, (same location) was bone dry the whole trip. The Vortech Supercharger intake is right behind the grill, open to all the rain in the world, still no problem. Just keep your filter clean, and oiled.

EDIT: I wrote this in regards to oiled filters. Didn't read the "why I made it" just the "how to". But still, it hurts the cold air effect, why the hell would you put an un-oiled open element filter on your car, ANYWHARE? To damn risky if you ask me. But hell, it's yor ride.
 

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i had the same exacxt guard until i was doin 80 and someones hubcap flew off their car right into the bumper and the lexan exploded everywhere and to tell you the truth its louder and in my opinion is more flowing witout it and also halftimes right just keep up on the maitnance and oil it and you will have no problems
 

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He's talking about the new Dry Flow filters which are NOT oiled. It's great for the MAF since it won't get oil all over it, but they do retain more water than the original oiled versions.
 

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I did the same thing when I bought my used cai. Except I did mine in the freezing ass winter and didn't have enough time to mock it up right. Just cut a piece of plexi to fit and zipped tied it up. Mine was a little below the bottom of the bumper and let water in so I ripped it off.

When it stops raining I plan on cutting more plexi and fitting it like you did, above the bumper and even adjusting the filter up a little bit. Maybe even bust out the heat gun.

Hope it keeps you dry flow wet free.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
HalfTime said:
That defets the purpos of CAI. If your filter is properly maintained, your not gonna suck water up from splashing on wet roads. Just don't be stupid and drive through a river of a pudle and you'll be fine. ;) Befor I was S/Ced I drove from NC to FL to WI in 3 days, 90% of the trip was rain, my AEM, (same location) was bone dry the whole trip. The Vortech Supercharger intake is right behind the grill, open to all the rain in the world, still no problem. Just keep your filter clean, and oiled if required.
No I am normally not this brash... but you sir are an idiot.

I would like to know how to properly maintain a dryflow filter and a CAI which is hard mounted in one position. You mean maybe putting some hair driers down there? I am really interested in this amazing anti water maint. program. Please give me more info!

How about you read the post before commenting, I said this is a AEM dryflow filter and it holds water better ( as a side effect of it filtering better - the K&N cotton gauze filters were trash... you could see light through holes in the filter material after a few thousand miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
and after driving today in pouring rain... and standing water on the freeway, I went under the car and checked... the filter was damp but not soaked. the shield did its job.

But I think in the long run I am going to make my own CAI with the filter up high much like the pipercoss. I think with a few PVC peices you could make your own without issue. Either that or I am going to put the stock intake back on. since it takes nearly a full day for a Dryflow filter to dry out after being soaked... it irks me that the car is injesting that much damp/wet air all the time. I think my MAF is die'n cause of it.

As I said in the previous post.. the Dryflow filters filter WAY better than the K&N style, but the retain atleast 10x more water in the felt material.
 

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Was thinking about getting one of those dry flows but with the water retention, I think I'll have to rig the filter better.

Damn, I was thinking about cutting the aem cai an inch or two were it connects under the battery and hopefully having the filter sit a little higher. Then using some plexi glass as well.
 

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Us 2.3 guys must be awsome or something becouse we get a whole box-like splash gaurd stock. then we dremel it out to fit our cai tubing through it. As a matter of fact all Duratecs get one. Ok im getting off of my we actually have something better than u stock high horse now. Any-ways if u want pics give me your e-mails. I am sure u can find one of these things at a junk yard and then moddify it/ur SVT to make it fit.
 

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Clegg said:
No I am normally not this brash... but you sir are an idiot.

I would like to know how to properly maintain a dryflow filter and a CAI which is hard mounted in one position. You mean maybe putting some hair driers down there? I am really interested in this amazing anti water maint. program. Please give me more info!

How about you read the post before commenting, I said this is a AEM dryflow filter and it holds water better ( as a side effect of it filtering better - the K&N cotton gauze filters were trash... you could see light through holes in the filter material after a few thousand miles.
First off, you can lick a dick you rude ass little punk! You could of simply said, "You miss read my post, re-read it befor postin." or something simular. Or are your internet muscles so pumped up you can't resist? Anyways...

To the rest... He is correct, I was talking about the oiled filters. I don't think I would ever use an un oiled open elament air filter. Seems to dangerous just for an un-noticable amount of HP/TQ in a NA motor. But if anyone cares, Advaced sells ready made sheilds for under $20 bucks. And they look sharpe too. In fact I have one lying around somewhere from my Mustang CAI befor I put the Turbo on it. Let me know if you want it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
fixed
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I didnt have as many issues with the K&N replacement... but overall I dont see IAT's that different between using the AEM and the Stocker (if you block off most of the side port) So I figured why worry about water and a fowled up MAF/TPS/IAC if I dont need to.
 
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