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Discussion Starter #1
If you've seen my turbo build thread you know I'm not new to turning a wrench.
It just happens that I've never needed to crack open the bottom end of a engine for an overhaul.
In the upcoming weeks I'll be installing forged internals in my 2.0, after an overboost issue that left my rings a bit lacking. (it still runs)

I'll have some help from a friend who has rebuilt old VW Beetles engines so I'm not going in completely blind.

What I really need help with is a parts list - what I'll need for the build that I
might not think of.
I'm leaning towards a kit from F2 that includes pistons, rods, bearings etc for $945 here (link).
I'm open to suggestions, but Cosworth is out of the question.

My engine only has 32k miles on it. Should I need a head gasket?
The only thing I know it needs is rings.

I'm mainly going forged for the longitevity/reliability factor. I don't plan on going over 15psi.
What compression ratio would everyone suggest?
It's a daily driver. I don't want to go too low so it's not a dog when not in boost.
It sees far more time out of boost than in.

All comments, links, and tips appreciated. [wrenchin]
 

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personally I think it really depends goals of the car. If your just looking to up the boost and be safe about it on a DD ..then you can do this for a pretty decent price.

F2 kit imo is kinda high priced, getting the stuff seperately will probally come out cheaper.

Eagle rods w/rod bolts = 300 shipped
Pistons can range from 350-700

Heres a decent deal, I'd prefer JE pistons over supertechs
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/JE-P...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Rod and crank bearings will set you back around 125 for a basic set, 150 for a premium set, and around 240 for something like cali-coated bearings.

Arp studs for the bottom end should be 75ish

Yes get a new head gasket, go with a OEM gasket. Seems everyone is having the best luck with them. Wanting to take the c/r down a notch (rough est .5 c/r) get a svt hg. CFM is a good place to get that.

Also get head studs, might as well while your there. I think they're a 100ish.

Front and rear seals in a fel-pro I think are both under 50.00

Depends your wallet, I'd do every gasket but the cam cover (because it can be changed later) I think all in all you can do it all for under 100 using fel-pro brand.

Thats all I can think of right now. Look to spend around 1200-1500 all said and done.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, but I have a Duratec so a few of those recommendations may not be the same between engines.
I'll definitely check prices closer and look into JE.
 

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Thanks, but I have a Duratec so a few of those recommendations may not be the same between engines.
I'll definitely check prices closer and look into JE.
ha , I didn't think to look at that.

If I come across anything I'll post it up for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Also if anyone has experience with the 2.0 Duratec internals and knows which parts let loose first please chime in.
Such as if I can stick with stock rods and just go with forged pistons.
Not that I'm trying to go cheap, but I'm also not one to waste money when not necessary.

I mainly ask because even with an overboost episode the stock pistons/rods didn't let loose, the rings did.
 

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No you cant keep the stock rods

Forged Pistons / Go over size
Eagle Rods
ARP head and main studs
Stock gasket set / use the felpro seals much better then Fords
Squair the block there off
Stock oil pump

Thats all you should need

There is a lot of talk about bearings and so far its all BS , Just get some regular Clevite/ Mich77 bearings and your fine

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks Tom. Why oversize?
Don't I need to bore the block for that?
I don't think I need to go to that expense for a block with 32k miles on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd like some input on compression ratio.
I'm fine with the power I have/had, which was 204whp/224tq @ 10psi on 91 octane, unfortunately it nose-dived after 5200rpm.
I'm not sure whether it is the small turbo or a timing issue in the tune. Randy @ FS said tune.
I want to stick with 91 octane because that's common here instead of 93.
Of course I'd like to tune for a 93-95 octane tune for when I run it at the drag strip once a year or so.
 

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Yes i would deff bore and hone the block is not expensive at all do it right the first time. and 9:1 compression would be good for you
 

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If this is mostly a street driven car then I would do 9 to 9.2 compression , at some point you will be upping the boost

Yes do a new bore job and over size pistons with 32,000 wont matter what size you go to I just wouldnt do STD , it wont cost that much more

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm still confused as to why I would get it bored if it's not out of round.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Forged Pistons / Go over size
Eagle Rods
ARP head and main studs
Stock gasket set / use the felpro seals much better then Fords
Squair the block there off
Stock oil pump

Thats all you should need

There is a lot of talk about bearings and so far its all BS , Just get some regular Clevite/ Mich77 bearings and your fine

Tom
Tom what are your thoughts on the package offered by F2 with the SuperTech pistons and F2 con rods?
I'm having trouble finding Eagle rods for a 2.0.

Can someone help me determine what compression ratio and PSI I should run with 91 octane gas?
The 91 octane is important because that's so common here.
 

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I'm still confused as to why I would get it bored if it's not out of round.
To fit the new oversized pistons. Buy the pistons, rods, rings and bearings, oil pump and gasket set. Bring this and the bare shortblock to an engine shop and have them bore it for the pistons, square the deck assemble the shortblock.

Bring it home, pop it in your car and you'll be good to go. 9:1 is an excellent compression ratio for this vehicle. Decent off-boost throttle response, with enough headroom to turn up the boost without getting too finicky. Yes you need a new head gasket. You should be doing new head studs as well.

And you though you could just drop in rings and pistons didn't you!!? [:)~]
 

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9.0 if what you plan on running is 91 octane. If you had access to 93 (like here in Florida, that is premium) I would run 9.2 compression. Now, you would like to run more than 15 psi from time to time, that, to me, says 9.0.

And for the reasons behind boring the block out, the rings may have scored the cylinder walls and to get a good seal, those scorings will have to be removed with a boring and honing. Plus, there is no replacement for displacement!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the input everyone.

My plans have changed again.
I swung by my local salvage yard which is typically way expensive, but I thought what the heck.
They had a 2006 D20 with 68 miles on it for $500.
It includes the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, fuel rail, injectors, COPs etc.
It was from a rollover, most likely during a test drive.
So my plan is to throw that in for now (since 10psi was fine for the stock engine, the overboost hurt it) and I'll have still my current engine to take my time with building up.
 
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