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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Come tax return time, I am going boosted. Here is my concern. My car is pushing 104K miles but still runs strong. I will be purchasing a "beater" car as a DD so tearing my SVTF down wont be a problem if need be. I only want to run roughly 8psi at the turbo (which would equate to about 7psi considering IC loss). Should I go ahead and pull the motor and "spruce it up" or leave it alone? I know my internals are forged anyways, so I am not sure which way is the best route. Any help is appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I want the efficiency of the turbo. Was considering PC S/C but thought harder about the turbo and that is the way I wanna go. The last S/C I would go with would be the JRSC. Not to talk bad about it, but I would want to keep intake temps down to a very minimum. I was thinking that my stock motor would handle the pressure of 8psi especially if I don't get on it very often. I just don't want to throw the turbo on there and then blow a motor.
 

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I go by the old saying "If it ain`t broke, don`t fix it". If your car has been well maintained, I wouldn`t worry about it. Get the turbo, have it properly tuned, and have fun. Unless you have money to burn, wait on the rebuild. Just my $0.02.
 

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Myself doing several different builds in the past, always plan on the unforseen and its future. You say you're only looking for 8psi? Why so low? How much hp you looking for? How much cash are you wanting to spend? Are you building the kit or buying a prebuilt kit? I personally have found out the hard way that by not building the block/ bottom end, they tend to fail faster. I'm no pro on these cars, but engines are engines reguardless what they're in, I've had better experience with buying an extra block and just totally building it from the ground up, ( shortblocks are the best in my opinion, with the bottom end already balanced and assembled) it costs more this way but taking your time, paying attention to details, taking no shortcuts and just being pateint with your build pays off in the end. Also, keep in mind that supporting mods are always a must, sooner or later. Also, building a seperate block let's you stay in your SVT, and not a beater, you have your factory block and rotating assembly as a back up, or next build. By not buying a beater you can spend that money on your build, and focus ( no punt intended) on your supporting mods. This is by far the best way in my opinion, let's you take the time to research more, get more in depth with your build, and you'll be happier with the end results. I have known a few that have slaped a turbo kit on a NA motor and have been satisfied in the short term, but most have went back later on and rebuilt it anyways, either by choice or not. Your foundation in a build is key to a great build, but that's strictly my opinion with 17 yrs of building engines.
 

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Keep the stock engine it will hold up fine and you couls run 12psi or more and still be reliable if you have a good tune (cough cough Tom)
 

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coooookie monster
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tom tune and 15psi would be bomb
 

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Shot me 3 deer!!!
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build!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Good choice with the turbo! I have to laugh at 03OrangeSVT's comment about the JRSC.

I think as long as you get the right supporting items aka a J&S you will be fine and reliable. I would not hesitate to go 10-12 psi if you want.

For the record, only your rods are forged, the pistons are still the weak point.
 

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Just my personal experience watching others saying they want to run low boost, then five months down the road after the new wears off, someone in a DSM starts talking trash and 8psi gets pushed to 18psi and parts start flying. When you could've done it right from the begining and pushed it without regret. You know it'll happen, lol!!!
 

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i have a zetec, if i put SVT pistons and rods in it, what kind of power could it handle safely? how much can it handle safely now?
 

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^I would go with different pistons versus stock SVT pistons.

You could run near mid 200HP with a good tune for a DD.
 

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Just my personal experience watching others saying they want to run low boost, then five months down the road after the new wears off, someone in a DSM starts talking trash and 8psi gets pushed to 18psi and parts start flying. When you could've done it right from the begining and pushed it without regret. You know it'll happen, lol!!!
You make a good point here....

As for SVT pistons, don't waste your time. Go with forged aftermarket stuff, like probes, JE, etc and eagle rods.
 

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I like Tom's short blocks, a real build starts there when considering FI. Get the CGI block with squirters, it can handle all your wallet can throw at it!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, money is an issue being that I have a family and all. I am probably gonna purchase an SRT4 Neon as an alternative in case anything happens to the SVTF. As far as low boost goes, I don't wanna run a whole lot on a DD street car with 104K miles regardless of how excellent the tune is. I am just looking for a well rounded car with boost. I just wasn't sure if I should build before boost or wait until devastation happens. The only thing I really thought about doing as far as "building" goes was just a tear down and replace things like gaskets and seals and bearings; things like that.
 

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I AM DA FOCI FANATIC
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Do a compression test, if all is good boost on stock internals. Your good to 300whp, you can push 350whp with a very good tune. If it was me 300 is a good safe mark.
 

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I'ld rather be safe than sorry in the long run. How long can factory internals handle 300whp, I think I've seen a few here on the forums that had engine replacements because they chose to keep stock internals and turbo'd their cars. I would say that I'ld be more concerned with the pistons than anything.
 
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