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Discussion Starter #1
so i managed to bust my tensioner pulley while removing the alternator. (not going into details)

so i want to know is it possible to replace just the tensioner without having to do the whole timing procedure? i just did my timing two months ago and dont want to do it again, already pretty upset at breaking the tensioner.

Im thinking as long as the belt never comes off and i set the tension correctly on new one i should be ok?
 

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yup you can change just the tensioner as long as the nothing has jumped out of timing.
 

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That's the serp belt tensioner, not the timing belt tensioner..............get a new one, put it on and go.

Wondering how you could have 'did my timing two months ago' and not know that, that's a lot of dope there buddy..................

If you in some really odd way managed to break the timing tensioner, no, it needs rechecking again, that's an SVT there. Valve bending time if you don 't.

Two separate belts there, what happens on one does not affect the other, at least in a one sided way.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
im not an idiot. it was the timing tensioner that i broke. started thinking about it after i made the thread, and i was already leaning toward pulling the valve cover and checking timing again just to make sure. and ive never done dope in my life and dont do any drugs or drink, so dont assume things.
 

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Well, I gave a like to the first answer with the assumption that what you did tell us was perfectly accurate.

Only you know how it got damaged, and more importantly if anything else got moved.

As long as the engine wasn't turned over while it was broken (my assumption) it should be OK to replace the tensioner.

NOT as easy to adjust it as when the timing is done & pulleys are loose, takes a bit of fiddling to make sure the slack is out of the system & the cams aren't affecting it.
 

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these tensioners are one offs they CANNOT be reused and if you manage to detach one thats still intact ill bet you good money that when you reinstall it in 1-2 months you will get this annoying clack sound from it as the bearings eat themselves..

how do i know.. i have 3 cars doing that right now 1 is my gold gagon and 2 are my white wagons,i had belts go bad i had a few spares pulled off my wreck lowmileage company cars and it was holidays and i needed the cars working that evening so i pilfered the tensioners and belts installed the tensioners that seemed fine now all 3 have this annoying CLACK sound that is progressively getting worst.. yep twice the work but id rather have to do the job twice then loose thousands on jobsites where workers were unable to get to because their cars were not running.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Well, I gave a like to the first answer with the assumption that what you did tell us was perfectly accurate.

Only you know how it got damaged, and more importantly if anything else got moved.

As long as the engine wasn't turned over while it was broken (my assumption) it should be OK to replace the tensioner.

NOT as easy to adjust it as when the timing is done & pulleys are loose, takes a bit of fiddling to make sure the slack is out of the system & the cams aren't affecting it.
actually i might as well just say how i broke it lol, i needed to remove the alternator and it was on pretty good and i stuck a bar in to pry it up and wasnt paying attention and ended up pressing against the tensioner for leverage. got the alternator off but busted up the tensioner pulley. obviously no upper timing cover, took it off years ago and no longer have it, wish i had put it back on now.

But you are correct in the engine has not moved since then and nothing else was touched or damaged. but im already going to have everything apart to replace it so might as well pull the valve cover too to check timing. hoping i dont have to loosen the cam pulleys.
 

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Simple 'oops' is easiest to repair.

Only the original damaged item to deal with.
BTDT many times....

was being pestered by someone i wasn't paying attention while working on a part at the front of the jag put a little to much pressure on a rad hose and all you hear was CRACK.. yep turned out the crack was the T connector where the rad tank meets up with the upper rad hose and connects to the thermostat housing. cracked it right where it flares out to the plate to connect to the lower T-stat housing[slap]
 

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'... obviously no upper timing cover, took it off years ago and no longer have it, wish i had put it back on now.'

It's not obvious until you post it. What WAS obvious was the tensioner should have been buried where it couldn't be hurt, why I said what I did. Maybe you should tell all of it next time.

My bad for my part in it.

FYI, I used to do that leaving cover off thing but quit, the dirt that gets in will wreck havoc with pulley wear, the pulley notches will get rounded from dirt wear to make belt jump much easier. BTDT on SOHC Ford.

I've pulled so many and lying around I began re-using old tensioner pulleys after figuring out a way to relube the inside bearing. Haven't lost one yet but I use them on older cars that don't hit valves if they break. Quick way to make $50 out of thin air. I keep all steel idlers that are bad too to put in new bearings, a couple on cars now have been on 3 times.

Reusing anything on an SVT though would be a mistake.
 

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'... Haven't lost one yet but I use them on older cars that don't hit valves if they break. .
only focus engine that has that option is the zetec... everything else it gets the kiss of death
 
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