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Discussion Starter #1
the entire car yesterday started rumbuling and shaking when i drive it. when at a stand still the entire car is shaking and when i drive it stalls and cant really go past 40mph. it was running fine and all the sudden i start it up yesterday and this happens i have no idea what this could be. the check engine light is on and the battery light is on. the battery light has been on for about a week and a half now and ive replaced the alternator and the battery and starter were both good 5days ago when i chaked them so i honestly sont have the slightest clue of what this could be.
 

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DTC P0606
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3,364 Posts
And the Check Engine Light code is?
If the battery light - which indicates a problem with the charging system (battery, alternator w. voltage regulator and associated wiring) - has been on for "a week and a half", they can't have been "good 5 days ago".
Guessing from your description, I'd suggest your Check Engine Light is indicating an engine misfire.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
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i had it looked at today and the guy i drove it to told me 100 for the fix but would that fix the engine light too or would the engine lght be a electrical problem? I was replacing my little latch for the hood and i accedenally rubbed obe of the wires thats down by the fuses on a litttle metal plate and it made a little spark and ever since then the battery light has been on so im wondering if its a cable issue or is it something else. Ive replaced the alternator and tested the batteryand starter and everything is fine but the light is still on.
 

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DTC P0606
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So did the guy say what the $100 fix was for? Or was that just his "diagnostic" fee?

The engine light - I'm assuming you mean the Check Engine Light (CEL) on the dash - is illuminated to indicate it's storing a DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Code). That code - a letter followed by 4 digits - would narrow down what the exact problem may be so the engine light being on isn't an electrical problem, but it may be indicating there is one. (Hope I've interpreted your post correctly.)

And yes, you can clear DTCs by yourself so that the Check Engine Light goes out. On some codes, this is done simply by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for several minutes; however, if you clear the code without knowing what it is, you've lost valuable diagnostic information that'll help you solve the problem quickly without guessing. (If you clear the code and the problem isn't fixed, the CEL will reappear anyway.) To find out what the code is you need an OBDII scan tool that plugs into the car's computer and reads the code. I understand that in the US, some parts stores may do this for you for free. Dealers/repair shops may charge for this service.

If you've made a spark with the some engine wiring then there's a possibility that you've blown a fuse. Did you check the fuses in the fuse box? You may have also burnt some wiring so that it no longer conducts an electrical current or is grounded where it shouldn't be. So, as you suggest it could be a problem with a cable. Again, knowing the DTC code may help isolate the problem.
 

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I remember reading something about a fuse keeping the battery light on when blown. You need to check those fuses under the hood.
 

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Hatch Nation #136
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Scan your code. Look at the wires you fried when you were creating a short. Sounds like you have a blown fuse that you've been driving with and that has created further complications.
 
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