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Discussion Starter #1
could any one tell me what key i need and where i can get it from for the calliper removal so i can change the break pads? its the 2 bolts that hold the calliper so it wont be loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks i actually asked a friend at work and he har the right size and i changed the pads as soon as i got home (around 9:30). Just got done. Only took me about 2 and a half hours but for never doing breaks on my own on any type of car i think thats a good time.
 

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If this was your first brake job. Make sure you pump the brake pedal, before you try to drive. I have seen guy`s drive right into things because they forgot to pump the pedal back up.....
 

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I hope you removed the master cylinder cap before you forced the calipers in. If not, you're not going to be stopping the car any time soon.

Like Iroc said, a few pumps before moving the car will prevent any scary stuff.

Secondly, you'll likely hear some squealing when you apply the brake pedal. That would be normal. If you installed the pads with anti-squeal on the back of the pad, then you'll be fine once the pads settle in.

Also, I hope you checked the rotors. Typically these cars need rotors with every pad change. In the future, I suggest finding someone who offers lifetime rotors and pads- like O'Reilleys. I change rotors with every pad change.
 

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Also, I hope you checked the rotors. Typically these cars need rotors with every pad change. In the future, I suggest finding someone who offers lifetime rotors and pads- like O'Reilleys. I change rotors with every pad change.
This.

The rotors on these have ZERO meat on them.
 

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I hope you removed the master cylinder cap before you forced the calipers in. If not, you're not going to be stopping the car any time soon.
The cap has a vent on it (its not air tight anyways), you won't blow any master cylinder seals by pushing your pistons in without removing the cap.


As a rule of thumb, you should always replace the rotors when replacing the pads. Otherwise, your brakes will vibrate like crazy until the new pads get bedded in (if they even bedded into the new rotors, most won't).


And for my '03, its a 7mm allen key that I need for my caliper pins.
 

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The cap has a vent on it (its not air tight anyways), you won't blow any master cylinder seals by pushing your pistons in without removing the cap.


As a rule of thumb, you should always replace the rotors when replacing the pads. Otherwise, your brakes will vibrate like crazy until the new pads get bedded in (if they even bedded into the new rotors, most won't).


And for my '03, its a 7mm allen key that I need for my caliper pins.
deadend - You are right... to a point..... - advice from whynot is usually from experience, his or that of others who had issues....

In THIS case, I know myself of folks who pushed the pistons in too fast, and caused issues that probably wouldn't have happened with the better venting of a removed master cylinder cap....

It's a "better safe than sorry" situation, where in MOST cases it doesn't really matter - unless you overflow the master cyl. reservoir - BUT it's better to "do it the right way" to avoid any possible issues....

OK?

(grin)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
thanks for all the help i did everything like you guys said and the car is driving fine now the brake padal is slighly softer than normal but i heard thats normal and its fine. i have no problem stopping and the car is running fine for right now. thanks agan
 
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