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1) The gliding pins are 7 mm hexes (allen) right? Also what is your preferred grease? I used to use the grease that came with the pads for lubrication, or just plain silicon grease, although right now I have a tube of Super Lube with PTFE in it that I am thinking of using (https://smile.amazon.com/Super-Lube-92003-Lubricating-Translucent/dp/B0081JE0OO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=silicon+grease+PTFE&qid=1556281985&s=automotive&sr=1-3)

2) what is the size of the bolts that are used to hold the caliper bracket that needs to be removed to get the rotors off?

3) What is your preferred grease for the pad ears (The sliding metal/metal contact points between pads and caliper, I used to apply a thin layer of aluminum anti-seize (Permatex
81343) with good results)

4) Do you use something like Disk break quiet between pad and caliper mating surfaces to glue them on? Or is it preferential to use a grease of sorts (On saabs I always used disc break quiet with excellent results)

Thanks all.
1/3.) I just used whatever antiseize I had in the garage. Probably had 4 different types lol.

4.) I just used the normal CRC brake grease that you can get at any auto parts store on both the focus and the Evo. Useless on cars at the track though, that stuff burns up at those temps.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks all. did the job after swapping out those junk lug nuts. The new pads and rotors are quiet so far, and have good breaking power even without bedding so would recommend the akeboro proact pads and Wagner e-coated rotors (I also only washed these with soap and water before install).

The install was pretty simple once the lugnuts came off. No suprises anywhere, the only thing is make sure to have a breaker bar to remove the bolts(18mm) holding on the caliper braket to get the rotors off, the bolts are thread locked on so i had to use a 25 in breaker bar to get them off. Everything else was simple, took about 40-50 min a side taking my time in a parking lot.
 

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Are the stock pads ceramic or semi metallic on the SE? Checked my pads today and they need changed at 81,000 miles. Got about probably 2-4 MM left.

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Discussion Starter #24
Pretty sure they are ceramics, all the aftermarket replacements are ceramics unless you go really cheap. From reading the best three pads under 60$ seem to be Akeboro ProAct (~50$ online), Wagner Thermoquiet (30-40$), or Napa adaptive one (60$). At least this is what I was choosing from after reading a bunch, ended up on ProAct pads as many people love them, so far they have been good, but that is with new rotors.
 

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Pretty sure they are ceramics, all the aftermarket replacements are ceramics unless you go really cheap. From reading the best three pads under 60$ seem to be Akeboro ProAct (~50$ online), Wagner Thermoquiet (30-40$), or Napa adaptive one (60$). At least this is what I was choosing from after reading a bunch, ended up on ProAct pads as many people love them, so far they have been good, but that is with new rotors.
Are they really Ceramics? Because if so, that's disappointing. Why is there so much brake dust on my front rims?

I actually ordered Motorcraft replacements listed as low dust on Rock Auto. I've seen complaints about both Wagner and Centric, and Centric had really poor reviews on Amazon. Guess I may have been intimidated to spend $50 on brake pads but it wasn't much more than the Motorcraft.

I don't see how these ones could have much more dust since they are ceramic too. Hope I didn't make a mistake.

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Discussion Starter #26
Hmm, never noticed much dust on the stock breaks from my 2014. Maybe older ones used semi-metallic? Might be in agreement with how there are people that report pads disappearing after 20 k mils, and some who had more then 50 k miles on original pads? Or just shoddy quality from ford...
 

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Are the OEM pads the same as the "motorcraft" ones? If so, car-ID shows them as ceramic.

You're really not going to be able to run away from brake dust no matter what type of pads you choose, but these motorcraft/OEM pads are definitely less dusty than a semi-metallic.
 

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Are the OEM pads the same as the "motorcraft" ones? If so, car-ID shows them as ceramic.

You're really not going to be able to run away from brake dust no matter what type of pads you choose, but these motorcraft/OEM pads are definitely less dusty than a semi-metallic.
I saw on the F-150 Forums that OEM and Motorcraft are two totally different things. OEM is Genuine Ford parts apparently.

All I know is my front rims have a bunch of black and orange on them. Orange might be rust from the rotors. I tried an all wheel cleaner and it got the orange crap off pretty good but the lighting was poor at the self serve car wash so it could be difficult to see. My rims are hard to clean. Lots of angles.

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I'm wondering when the rear brake shoes for the drum system will need replaced. I'm suspecting they are in good condition.

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For the dirty rims look for an Iron remover. I will suggest CarPro Iron-X the stuff works incredible on rims and paint. Check out some YouTube videos. It’s kinda pricy but it is good stuff!
 

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For the dirty rims look for an Iron remover. I will suggest CarPro Iron-X the stuff works incredible on rims and paint. Check out some YouTube videos. It’s kinda pricy but it is good stuff!
Im going to check that out, cant get all the little metal bit off my rims from the brakes went, even after scrubbing them.
 

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For the dirty rims look for an Iron remover. I will suggest CarPro Iron-X the stuff works incredible on rims and paint. Check out some YouTube videos. It’s kinda pricy but it is good stuff!
I even found something called Ferrex, and it's a tad cheaper. $20 on Amazon vs $30 for Iron X.

Just hope one of these products can go a long way for the prices they ask.

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