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I'm having the exact same issue with my Luk clutch that I had installed in my SVT recently. The car is well past the break in period and in normal driving it works just fine but if I really try to get going it will slip after every gear change.

Make the 6 speed kinda boring [:(]

Any chance you got your problem sorted out?
 

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i could be the oil that comes on them. i know when i did mine i had to use brake clean on the flywheel friction surface and the pressure plate. (i didn't notice any oil on the disk itself) i tried letting it break in but i was tooo tempted to give it till i was up to highway speeds and it had no issues spinning first and chirping 2nd after only 100km (about 60miles) but i did go back and forth in my drive way for about 30-40 times before driving it on the street to make sure i got all the air out of the lines.

my though is the oil if not cleaned off would cause slipping. slipping= heat. too much heat = glazed surface. glazed surface = slipping

since it was done at a shop let them look at it. it shouldn't cost you anything. although if it is glazed they will say you slipped it too much or floored it right after you got it.
 

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i would say some people need to learn how to drive if your burning up a stock clutch with no power adder... no trying to be rude, just sayin...theres a ton of people with manual trans that cant drive to save their life [:0]
 

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No offence dude but if a clutch slips right at the beginning after a reasonable break in period it has nothing to do with the driver


and a stock clutch with over 100k on it will start to slip regardless of the number of horses the motor puts out.

you fail at the internet

just sayin...


p.s. the last part was supposed to be offensive
 

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I have 200 FWHP and 170,000 on a stock clutch, no slipping ... you where saying ...



Just because the time factor has passed doesn't mean the clutch is 'broke in'.
If any oil was present on any part during the install it will never break in.
If the rear main is leaking, the VC gasket is leaking or the water outlet is leaking, oil and or antifreeze can get on the clutch ... and it'll never break in.



Also, air does not naturally bleed out of any clutch or brake component. It must be bled out by opening the bleeder and cycling the peddle.
 

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well i think that if the people that did your clutch were professional they did a good job, what i would do first is contact the shop get them to take a ride in it, and inspect it to see if the clutch isn't fried from driving it when it is slipping, but i think its not clutch related, i think the second gear clutch in your transmission is worn out, that's what it sounds like to me. its pretty easy to wear that out by driving it hard. but i would take it to the shop that did the original work and talk to them about it.
 

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i just got a new stage one clutch put in my car, and driving around it engages finei put it threw the break in period but, when i finally took it out racing i noticed when i was shifting at aroun 6400 rpm the clutch would slip, then a few times after words it didn't happen, i was wondering if it could be the slave needs bleeding or if it is just a normal thing for driving the car agressivlly for the first time also it sat for about 6 days before hand i was wondering if it could of been rust build up on the fly wheel.
After thinking about your situation a few minutes i realized what you really need is to have your head checked by a Shrink because there isnt a Ford with a 4 cylinder engine with a super natural fancy Clutch can even take the pounding your talking about! Besides that your 4 cylinder rubber band engine can't go anywhere near as high as 6400 RPM's you stated! The engine would throw a rod even if it does LMMFAO. I think you have possibly a John Force Complex? Not sure but maybe go back to bed and sleep it off. Good luck Sir. ?
 

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Hey DA, the lowdog zetec hits max stock power at around 5800 rpm, with a bit of overrun and non-stock cam timing it will make 6400. You CAN pitch a (sintered) rod but it's not that easy. Some here dirttrack them and they would be pushing constant rpm like that all night long or they are in the back of the pack. Thinking there may be an rpm limiter in there somewhere, Tom would know about that.

Breaking in clutch discs? We built drag cars and you never did any of that. If the clutch slipped you had the stack height or pressure wrong or something else was afoul.

Discussing a 9 year old post here as well.
 

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After thinking about your situation a few minutes i realized what you really need is to have your head checked by a Shrink because there isnt a Ford with a 4 cylinder engine with a super natural fancy Clutch can even take the pounding your talking about! Besides that your 4 cylinder rubber band engine can't go anywhere near as high as 6400 RPM's you stated! The engine would throw a rod even if it does LMMFAO. I think you have possibly a John Force Complex? Not sure but maybe go back to bed and sleep it off. Good luck Sir. ?
Another new guy , yes you can take the 2.0 Zetec , SVT , 2.0 Duratec , 2.3 Duratec all to 7000 rpm and no break rods , the stock rev limiter on the Zetec is 6500 rpm , The stock clutch will hold doing 6500 with out slipping , thousands have done it

Tom
 

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White 2003 zx5 autotrans zetec, grey 2003 zx5 standardtrans zetec, grey 2004 se standardtrans zetec
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  1. I was just having this issue and took Tony778's advice and it fixed the problem. Just be careful with how much brake cleaner you spray in there, the main engine crank seal and the main transmission input shaft seal are pretty vulnerable to breakdown and could make the issue worse by leaking trans and engine oil onto your clutch. Also the break cleaner could break down the grease on your TB and cause issues.
 

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Something must be wrong with my zx3 or the previous owner did a tune because my engine bangs off the limiter at 7200rpm
 

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Saying a clutch can't make it pass 100k is nonsense my car had 160k on the original clutch. I know people who have gotten over 300k on the original clutch. All a clutch is just a big disc with friction material on it like a brake pad. It wears based on how you drive the car not how old or how many miles is on it.
 
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