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Unless your car is special it should have drum brakes in the rear. So brake shoes not pads.

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Discussion Starter #22
Did you see the pads? And if they were worn down to the nubs/wear indicators, have you or another driver left the handbrake/emergency brake engaged whilst driving? Rear brake pads generally last waaay longer than fronts which do 75% of the braking, unless you leave the e-brake engaged a bit or have been rallying the car. Glad you found the issue, regardless. :)
No I never use my emergency brake ever so it’s always been off, so that’s what I really don’t understand
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Unless your car is special it should have drum brakes in the rear. So brake shoes not pads.

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You know what I mean, yes brake shoes either way they have somehow worn to 3mm in 7 months according to the dealer, they scuffed everything up and got rid of what they called chippers and the noise has stopped as of now but they quoted me 500 for repair when I decide to get them replaced
 

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Discussion Starter #24
well, unless you bought a full set of those Duralast Gold pads and watched as they were installed all around, they may not have gotten installed on the rear. The rears may not have really needed replacing at that time; especially if a 'friend' was doing you a favor, as you mentioned and looked at the condition of rotors/pads at that time,. A good rule of thumb is the rear pads get replaced every other time you swap fronts, or when they hit the wear indicators. I only replace rear pads when I'm changing out rotors pretty much, but that's just the way it's worked out for me. Best of luck to you! The back weren’t Duralast gold just plain Duralast and I did watch them install them stood right there and watched
 

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Discussion Starter #25
well, unless you bought a full set of those Duralast Gold pads and watched as they were installed all around, they may not have gotten installed on the rear. The rears may not have really needed replacing at that time; especially if a 'friend' was doing you a favor, as you mentioned and looked at the condition of rotors/pads at that time,. A good rule of thumb is the rear pads get replaced every other time you swap fronts, or when they hit the wear indicators. I only replace rear pads when I'm changing out rotors pretty much, but that's just the way it's worked out for me. Best of luck to you!
Yeah they we’re replaced I watched them replace them cz my old ones were even worse almost metal on metal where someone rode to long with e brake on before I bought the car
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Agree with you on pretty much everything U stated, but we are trying to assist based on the very limited information we have concerning the poster's brake noise problem, which he has since updated does have rotor scoring. Admittedly hard spots are much more commonly encountered in a semi-metallic pad, but it's certainly not out of the realm of possibility for any pad, regardless of composition. It could just be as simple as road debris got caught up and stuck and is now scoring the rotor in two spots, but again, we are simply trying to illuminate the possibilities given the limited info we have to work with. Hopefully, the Ford techs won't simply go for the 'normal' and tell the owner they need to replace rotor and pads with the 'Ford' OEM items at a cost beyond comprehension (Firstborn child? Or is it just a leg below the knee now?). Free inspections are great and all, but you do have to realize the business dealer service departments are in is to make $$$, so I am very interested to hear what they find/recommend to resolve the issue.
They said my front was perfectly fine which is the one that has the scoring but they said on my rear brakes that I had what he called chippers like my rear brake shoes were chattering at one point
 

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Well make sure he replaces all the hardware all of it.

My brother has a focus same year you have 300,000 mi the rear brakes have never ever been looked at.


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Laughing at how much trouble this OP has with things, best thing for him to do would be to get rid of everything he has.

Going to laugh even more if backs are drum and somebody changes shoes over them being too thin, they are that thin OUT OF THE BOX.
 

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Laughing at how much trouble this OP has with things, best thing for him to do would be to get rid of everything he has.

Going to laugh even more if backs are drum and somebody changes shoes over them being too thin, they are that thin OUT OF THE BOX.
I was thinking the same thing.

Brake shoes are thin very thin compared to brake pads.

Also brake shoes are not the same thickness one is about twice as thick as the other.

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There you go, 'worn out' before you even put 'em on.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I was thinking the same thing.

Brake shoes are thin very thin compared to brake pads.

Also brake shoes are not the same thickness one is about twice as thick as the other.

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I’m wondering if he measured the wrong side I still find it hard to believe it wore in 7 months although my mechanic said it is possible if they weren’t installed correctly
 

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Anybody not knowing one is very thin new will tend to concentrate of that one as it looks 'wrong'. You just have to know it's not. That fits up in there with knowing everything there is to know about every car, which of course nobody can possibly know.

I know the first time I saw it with new parts in a box, I thought, well, this has gotta be wrong.

The thin one goes on the back, the parking brake arm signifies it.

Look at the shoe on the left and the end of the actual friction material, the angle on the end to remove what used to be a right angle where the material suddenly ended. That angle is what stops shoe noise like squeal in slow roll traffic jams. I make it a lot longer, on mine before installing new shoes, maybe double. Many shoes even now don't have the angle dropoff and noise as a result.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Laughing at how much trouble this OP has with things, best thing for him to do would be to get rid of everything he has.

Going to laugh even more if backs are drum and somebody changes shoes over them being too thin, they are that thin OUT OF THE BOX.
I was thinking the same thing.
You don’t have to be sooo fucking rude I don’t know what your damn problem is, of course if a dealership tells me their worn Ima believe them as I have not myself seen the brake shoes to see what their looking like ******* Im so sick of this damn forum I’ll be leaving and finding another with kinder people who aren’t fucking assholes judging people and laughing at people for their issues it’s people like you that’s wrong with the world
Brake shoes are thin very thin compared to brake pads.

Also brake shoes are not the same thickness one is about twice as thick as the other.

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Look you got to toughen up a little bit.
I'm going to say this as nice as possible look this is not personal car sites are probably not for you. You really need to find an excellent shop no not your mechanic an excellent shop that you can build a relationship with, that you can bring your problems to and allow that shop to solve them.



Free inspections at the dealership equals yeah we're going to get some money off of this person.


AMC is not what is wrong with the world he is blunt and honest. He knows a lot and I'm willing to look past his bluntness for his knowledge.

The man has added a vast amount of knowledge to this site and it cannot be replaced.

Good luck to you and I wish you the best.



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Everyone here is right pretty much. I hate to revive a thread but I bet you heard something like this 'whirling' noise


There are many similar noises and It's very difficult to describe in words and get any sort of accurate diagnosis. Even listening/looking is not enough, you need to actually diagnose the issue, but there is a easy step to take first almost no one does. You will get taken for a ride if you don't have a experienced honest mechanic. I recommend you just give the car a good wash making sure the wheels get sprayed really well. Easiest way to do this is pay for a car wash that cleans the underside as well. If the noise persists try cleaning the rotor on the effected wheel (brake clean, dry with clean fresh paper/shop towel.) and look for any obstructions between the pad an rotor. Once cleaned check for the issue again, if it persists proceed to the harder stuff or let the mechanic have at it.

I ended up with that exact same noise months after replacing my front brakes post a low speed impact front end impact. My SO took it to their family friend mechanic who said the rotors are warped or a wheel bearing was bad. The exact same suggestions in the comments of that youtube video. Those comments sound darn sure sounding too lol. I found out they never took the wheel off, they just drove it for a few minutes and listened. I replaced the rotors with the pads when I did the job. I used some more premium coated rotors to prevent rust and the higher end advanced auto ceramic pads. I could not feel any play indicating a bad wheel bearing, and everything looked fine, but the noise was there.

So I went back and took the wheel off where the noise was coming from and could not find a warped rotor. The inside of the wheel had caked on debris so i spent time cleaning the heck out of that. Just looking at the rotor it seemed crooked, and running it in the air without the tire seemed to indicate it was warped as it wobbled. I put back the old rotor I had still kept and same wobble. I compared it to the old rotor and figured they could not possible be warped the same way, so it looks like I probably did not need to replace the rotors but they were rusted to heck and I beat them pretty good to get them off. Yes some say this will cause a bad bearing, but I can't find evidence of that still years later. I spent extra time making sure to clean all rust off the hub with a file (I recommend a proper tool if you need to do this). I did clean it before, but I left the super hard stuck on stuff figuring <1mm would not be an issue, and it was not for months at least. I found comments blaming even the slightest bit of rust for issues like this since the rotor is not perfectly flush. After that, same wobble and I was resigned to take it to a real mechanic as I felt in over my head and i did not want the family friend to just throw parts at it like I could.

I put everything back together like I had when I first did the job (copper anti seize on hub, cleaned rotor, greased contact points, made sure it was all right, etc) and performed a road test to make sure it was still safe enough.

Noise completely gone. In hindsight the fender bender probably logged some debris in between the rotor and pad (I found nothing like this though), but more likely some grease was on the rotor I could not see and simply cleaning it off fixed the issue. I talked to a friend at work about this and how loads of comments claim the issue was resolved by a new wheel bearing, rotors, pads, etc when all those jobs include cleaning the rotor. I felt foolish not trying to clean it first and they reminded me I gave them that advise the previous year. They said i commented on brake noise being caused by debris in general and cleaning with brake clean could fix it. My friend told me a few months back they had some noise then just got a good car wash and it fixed the issue for them.

It's real easy to freak out about your brakes, especially for people with a hint of OCD and anxiety. Comments on the internet will make you think any noise like this from your brakes is serious because they report paying $300-$500 to replace things from rotors to wheel bearings to resolve, when all those jobs include cleaning basic brake components and putting back together.

if I was to do it again I would go with akebono pads. I have heard they solve many common brake noises that inferior pads cause. The issue I had could easily have been the pads themselves and i would get taken for a ride when more expensive work gets done and they replace the pads at no charge to hide their mistaken 'diagnosis'.
 

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I use Akebono ceramic pads. Their made in Japan, and are partially copper strands and ceramic composition. The composition makes for smooth powerful braking on G3000 type iron rotors, and work even better on G4000 type rotors, which are iron mixed with carbon. The combination is about 1/2 the brake dust of generic ceramic pads.

I've ran the Auto Zone ceramic pads, and they were terrible. Poor braking, tons of dust, and lots of noise.

IMO, it's a matter of finding the right ceramic pads and the right metal on the rotors that will match up. Consider slotted rotors to remove excess brake dust buildup.
 
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People need to realize that every time it rains and a car sits the discs will rust, they will make noise after sitting 3 days in that and you don't go washing parts to fix it, simply get into the brake fairly well as a scrubbing device and the pads will clean the discs off in a few seconds.

The noise I refer to is high pitched squeal so loud that people looking at you obviously want to shoot you, the noise being heard for easily a hundred feet.

That noise in post #38 vid is a non-event to me. It's pad material embedded in the disc to seem warped but the part is NOT warped. Yank discs and sand on them with very rough paper at the discolored spots and the drag and release will stop. You'll sand for a while though.
 
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