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I did pump it up a few times while bleeding. It seemed like there was more pressure when I opened the bleeder.
I think pumping is going to be the key. I would try that before pulling the other rear drum. Like I said there are a lot of bad Chinese parts out there.
 

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You MUST have the front caliper clips on and properly installed on these, they are for rattle but they also HOLD THE CALIPER DOWN to disc, with them gone you can easily move the caliper half off the disc and it can flop loosely all over the place! Allowing caiiper to move up by deflection and strike the wheel!

A MUST on these, a peculiar design. The caliper could be moving off the disc to make your issue!
 

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You MUST have the front caliper clips on and properly installed on these, they are for rattle but they also HOLD THE CALIPER DOWN to disc, with them gone you can easily move the caliper half off the disc and it can flop loosely all over the place! Allowing caiiper to move up by deflection and strike the wheel!

A MUST on these, a peculiar design. The caliper could be moving off the disc to make your issue!
Rereading his post I totally missed the removing the clips part.
 

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Hey if not the clips it'll be the bleed and you are dead on with that. Not everyone is aware of how wonky those clips are in holding the caliper in place, most don't go that far and just for noise. I thought about ditching them too once until I grabbed the caliper from above with it gone and the caliper came half off the disc, uh oh, not gonna work on this one!, I thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Ok, I appreciate the information. Ordered new pads for the front. I will pick them up on the way home and replace them first thing. I did not get to work on the car last night due to weather and the next two nights don't look much better. I will post back with any updates. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Ok, I appreciate the information. Ordered new pads for the front. I will pick them up on the way home and replace them first thing. I did not get to work on the car last night due to weather and the next two nights don't look much better. I will post back with any updates. Thanks again for the help.
Make sure to pick up a front hardware kit for the front. Apply a little high temp grease to the sliding pins before assembly. Make sure you suck out some fluid from the reservoir before you push the caliper pistons in. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Alright, so I replaced the front pads to address the broken clips, bench bled the original MC and reinstalled into the car. Re-bled the brake lines with another adult (instead of my 9 year old) using the three pump method. There was a lot of air in the lines. Reassembled the car and drove it. MUCH BETTER. The pedal has a more normal feel and I can even lock up the brakes. I think there is probably still a little bit of air in the system but it is definitely driveable now.

I really appreciate the help. Clearly air got in the lines somehow while we were bleeding the first time. My son must have let the pedal come up before I closed a bleeder valve. Oh well, its fixed now and I learned how to replace and bleed a master cylinder. Thanks again for all the help and advice.
 
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