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Discussion Starter #1
My brake lights recently stopped working. I checked all the bulbs, fuses, and relays. I even replaced the brake light switch which did need to be replaced due to the switch being stuck in half way. Must be a wiring issue. Got the wiring issue narrowed down to the wiring between the brake light switch and the junction box. All this info I got from a mechanic friend who has been working on my car. He recently bailed on me for reasons unknown. I am just a girl with a little knowledge of fixing things on cars and was wondering if someone could in struct me and my cousin (who has worked on Chevys) how to repair or replace the wiring between brake light switch and junction box. I desperately need my car and don't have hundreds of dollars to take it to a shop. Please help
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. What if there is nothing wrong in that area? Very well may be since I also have an issue with the button that opens the hatch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I have had issues with the button to the hatch since I got the car in 2008. What if it's somewhere under the dash??

Like I said I am new to all this and am trying to repair the issue myself if possible. If I have to cut the casing up to look at the wiring, I can just seal it back up with electrical tape correct?
 

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Huh?

"The original casings arent damaged"

So, did you inspect the wires inside the rubber boot or not?

No, you do not want to cut the rubber boot. The boot can be pulled away from the attachment points; and then pulled down; or pulled up; in order to inspect the wiring inside. If needing to do wire repair, the boot needs to be held back with tape, string, or whatever. Some people have cut the boot off, because the damn thing is a pain in the butt when doing the wire repairs.
 

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Did you check inside at both ends of the boot; the top & the bottom?
 

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Most cars have TWO switches that are controlled when applying the brake pedal. It is possible that you replaced the wrong one (this is assuming the switch really is bad).
 

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I never had the colors memorized to which system they operate. Plus, I do not have my wire diagram paperback book with me atm.

Do you have a multi-meter to help troubleshoot and isolate the problem?
 

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2004 Focus Wagon, Zetec DOHC, Auto
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There is a black switch, green switch and red switch. I replaced the black one
Black is brake light switch

Green is brake position switch to disengage cruise control

Red is clutch position switch to disengage cruise control

The one you would be concerned about is the black one.
 

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^^ Excellent & very helpful 2 posts. Thanks FocusKnot!

@OP - Does your top center rear brake light work?
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Yes checked wiring at both ends. Bought a brand new battery and car set for 4 days and the battery was dead. Charged the battery and let the car run for a bit. Decided to unhook battery cables so the battery won't run down again and noticed the positive cable was really hot. With the old battery I would connect and disconnect the cables so the battery wouldn't run down until I could purchase a new battery and never felt the red cable hot before. Ugh I don't know what's going on with this car. I don't see this car as having a major issue so why sell it like some people keep telling me to do. It's paid off for gods sake lol. I can afford a car payment right now. Just want to know how to fix this one.

And no, not one of the brake light work.
 

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With the old battery I would connect and disconnect the cables so the battery wouldn't run down until I could purchase a new battery and never felt the red cable hot before.
Are you saying that BEFORE you bought the new battery, the old battery would die if left connected? If yes, and the new battery is also doing this, you have confirmed a parasitic power drain. The proper or easy way to isolate this kind problem is using a designated Clamp style Amp meter -or- using a multi-meter setup to measure current/amps. Using a multimeter to measure amps is a pain in the butt because you have to "open the circuit" and insert your multimeter "in series" with the circuit. If you want to learn about doing this, Google search for "how to measure amperage" or similar wording.

You might want to find or hire a guy/gal who has good electrical troubleshooting skills?

Your hot battery cable might be the result of "the car was running" and it was charging a damaged battery because it was previously drained. If the car is cold, battery is disconnected, battery is cold AND THEN you connect the battery, and the cable begins to warm up, you have again confirmed your parasitic power drain. How fast and how hot is gets is concerning, and goes back to-> you need an amp meter or multimeter to find the source of the problem.

Other (slow n painful) ways of finding the power drain are; disconnecting or removing components, fuses, relays to see if the hot cable symptom goes away. i.e., disconnect the big red cable going to the starter and alternator.
 
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